My $0.02 for the PCChips board, the external battery jumper is next to the BIOS chip. I could be wrong. I'd say look at the traces underneath for that jumper to see if it does lead to the spot where the old NiCd battery was at.

Thanks. I've found the "1" again, it's slightly above of the topmost pin a bit to the left, hard to see but it's there.
I think all external batteries were non rechargeable, according to the following link. However if someone with the same board could confirm i'd be grateful. The Octek battery connector has no jumper but there must be a diode in there to prevent charging i guess.
http://pc-restorer.com/replacing-cmos-batteries-in-old-pcs/

I have 3 PC's with external enclosure now. All non-rechargable. Works like a charm. Going to order a 3xAA holder for my Soyo 486 board now.

Fine, but now how do i join the cables? I don't want to make a crappy home-made joint and i don't have a soldering iron. I've tried to use these terminals pressing them with pliers but it's impossible, they are very hard and cannot be deformed even the slightlest.
They're similar to the first entries, mine are red.

https://www.google.es/search?q=terminales+de+ … &bih=677#imgrc=_

TBH In only found one time a complete set with header on eBay but the other 2 I soldered myself. Also pretty crappy but it works 😀

Maybe this but it's also crude: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/narva-connector-st … p-30a_p00104077

You can buy a cheap dupont connector set and an appropriate crimp tool, so you will never need to solder any connectors of this type for the next 30 years or more 🤣

https://tr.aliexpress.com/item/620-adet-Dupon … -071cc33952bf-0

P.S: All the battery boxes that I purchased locally comes with a pair of cables already soldered at the box side, so you only need to take of the mobo side, this is what I'm assuming also your case.

Thanks but that would be too expensive. Apparently those terminals require special pressing pincers.
Now i wonder if with a home-made joint there's a risk of damaging the RTC in case of poor contact, i guess there is.

I think these fast connectors could work:
https://www.google.es/search?biw=1280&bih=677 … =ddYErgz8LFFQ1M:

And these t-tap ones:
https://www.google.es/search?biw=1280&bih=677 … =JWUVwQ5LsACP7M:

But they could be hard to find here in stores.

If you don't want to solder the wires, I suppose you could twist them until they are secure and cover the unions with heatshrink tube... the problem with that is that it's not reliable like a soldered joint, since a sudden pull may easily break it.

dondiego wrote:

Thanks but that would be too expensive. Apparently those terminals require special pressing pincers.
Now i wonder if with a home-made joint there's a risk of damaging the RTC in case of poor contact, i guess there is.

I don't think the tool is expensive:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SN-28B-Pin-Cr … cd-a5c870760084

Thanks, it wasn't expensive after all. I don't use aliexpress tough, i'd need to find them at a local store.
I've bought these, i hope it will do.

https://imgur.com/a/A9jBkr0

Seems the two AA batteries don't give enough voltage for the Jaguar V, RTC won't run without power but it keeps configuration. Or the RTC is bad. Same with the old barrel battery. The pcchips is fine with 3 AAA. I used those terminal strips in the last post, they work well but it's a bit tricky.

I stick with 3x AAA NiMH - that gives 3.6V which is exactly the same as the old barrel. Rechargeables are slightly more expensive than alkaline, but at least you don't need to worry about diodes to stop the boards recharging them (or explosions if you don't use the diode...).

I've done three boards this week, a Hedaka 286, an MG 386SX and an Atlantic Computer Systems 386DX and all are happy with the holders 😀