VOGONS


First post, by SirNickity

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I just got a Teac FD-235F 100-U drive -- 3.5" 720KB that won't read or write disks. It seeks fine on bootup, and will respond to commands, but (for e.g.) trying to format a disk just results in a track 0 error.

I think it may have been used for something non-PC (Amiga?) because the D0 jumper was set when I got it. I'm having some trouble finding a jumper reference for this particular model, so I don't know what exactly the pin positions do WRT Ready and Disk-Change signals on what pins. Here's what it's set to now:

  o   o   MS

o o IR
+---+
| o | o RY
| |
| o | o DC
+---+---+
| o o | D1
+-------+
o o D0

I found one picture online where the vertical jumper was set to short the RY row instead, with nothing on DC. This just caused DOS to report that the drive wasn't ready, so I assume the above is correct...? But if that's the case, I think the drive might be toast. 🙁

Just wanted a second opinion before I assume a less-than-common model is beyond salvaging. I have, of course, cleaned the heads. Have not yet tried cleaning and re-lubing the worm gear, but it all looks relatively clean and the drive sounds nice and quiet in operation.

Reply 1 of 11, by Horun

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Yes sounds like Amiga if D0 was jumped. I found a picture off ebay and zoomed in shows just D1 and RY jumped.

added: found the reference to RY-DC vertical FD-235F-100, is for an Amstrad/Schneider. Korg uses straps on RY, DC and DS0 with a note that you must change from DS1 "is for PC's"

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Last edited by Stiletto on 2020-03-02, 06:59. Edited 1 time in total.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 2 of 11, by Horun

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Just had an issue with an old CDRW where it was not working proper reading a data cd yet would play an audio cd and could hear it through it's headphone jack with headphones (so I knew the electronics was still good). It had been sitting in garage a few years. Had to clean the connectors even though they looked good, appear to be gold plated. You might want to use some 99% alcohol on the pins where you connect the floppy cable just in case, only takes one dirty pin to make something not work.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 3 of 11, by lowlytech

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if it did come from the era of the Amiga, I had a teac 720K in my A1200 that needed recapped. Same symptom as it wouldn't read or write disks. Ended up the faulty caps were what regulated the RPM on the disk motor if I remember right.

Reply 4 of 11, by Horun

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I found a 1992 .doc from Teac which gives the straps (jumpers) for 235-100 and it is just like you mentioned SirNickity
"FDD-235-100/112 Jumper Block: D1/1-D1/2 and RY/1-DC/1 must be shorted." I attached the docu

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Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 5 of 11, by SirNickity

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Nice find, Horun! Thank you!

Alas, I guess that means it is an issue with the drive. Will have a go with replacing the caps and see if that changes anything. There aren't many, but it looks like they're a little smaller than the generic ones I keep on hand. Might have to rig something up just to see if it makes a difference - I really don't want to give up on this drive. 🙁

Reply 6 of 11, by Horun

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A true 720k floppy drive is worth fixing as is a true 360k floppy drive.
Someone mentioned the caps on the motor drive board as the culprit in another thread, if it were me would start there.
I wish you luck and if you do get it working let me know please.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 7 of 11, by SirNickity

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Indeed -- you guys just saved a perfectly good floppy drive. There are three 22uF (notably, bipolar) electrolytic, and one 4.7u (polar) electrolytic. The latter measured 2nF when I tested it out-of-circuit. I replaced them all with spares and it works fine now! 😁

Will need to order actual replacements though. These are really small, and my bipolar caps are HUGE in comparison. It won't fit in a 3.5" bay as-is. Heheh

Thanks guys. I owe ya one. 😀

Reply 8 of 11, by Horun

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Great ! lowlytech deserves all the creds for the cap issue.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 9 of 11, by Tiido

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I replaced some capacitors on the floppy drive in my T3200 and it came to life also, though those capacitors cleraly showed that they were having it no more xD

T-04YBSC, a new YMF71x based sound card & Official VOGONS thread about it
Newly made 4MB 60ns 30pin SIMMs ~
mida sa loed ? nagunii aru ei saa 😜

Reply 10 of 11, by SirNickity

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Mine looked positively fine. Let that be a warning to anyone who finds this thread looking for repair advice. 😀 It might look fine and still be a bum cap! Give it a shot anyway.

Reply 11 of 11, by Horun

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I have a Teac 55GFR 41xx 5.25" giving the seek error, will replace the caps and see if it helps. It only has 3 Electro's on main board and none on the motor board which makes me think there is more to this ones problem, Am glad you got yours working !

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun