VOGONS


First post, by freetmool

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Hello, this is my first post (no pun intended), I'm from Belgium, born in 1979.
I like to restore old stuff and now it's my first PC from my youth 's turn 😉
This forum has already helped and interested me a lot by reading it, so thank you all !

I'll need some help because I've done many tests and I can't get my motherboard much alive...

First I didn't have any sign of life despite testing the PSU voltages (all good) and replacing the battery.
Plugged a VGA card, nothing...

I've tried many different BIOS and when I used the Phoenix one, I got 1-3-3 BEEPS
That seems to mean that there is a RAM problem.

So I've checked every DRAM with an arduino tester and found one bad one, great ! Well.... no.
Tried with one bank only and zero bank. All bank switches are in the right place.
Still the same problem.

Any idea ?

I should receive a diagnostic card soon but I don't think it would be much help from what I could tell.

Here is the motherboard in question: ( I do have the manual, bios rom and EMS diskettes if someone is interested)

(picture from HanJammer)
file.php?mode=view&id=100918

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Reply 1 of 19, by Cyberdyne

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Wow nice, a 286 with IDE and floppy!

you need an original bios for that motherboard, you can not just swap out random bioses and expect them to work. even if they beep a little bit.

You have 1MB of memory, it is all good. Usually it is called bank 0.

I am aroused about any X86 motherboard that has full functional ISA slot. I think i have problem. Not really into that original (Turbo) XT,286,386 and CGA/EGA stuff. So just a DOS nut.
PS. If I upload RAR, it is a 16-bit DOS RAR Version 2.50.

Reply 3 of 19, by megatron-uk

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I'm going through a similar process myself (see my 286 is dead, long live the 286 thread: 286 dead, long live the 286! Sourcing and building a fast 286 replacement).

I also had an original 286 board that was my first computer and used it on-and-off for many years. After putting it in storage 6 years or so ago it now won't POST successfully either.

These are old things, and I'm of the opinion that if we don't use them on a regular basis that they can degrade quite quickly. We're talking about 30+ year old IC's, capacitors and resister networks. They're going to fail at some point 🙁

Still, back your situation, yes I agree that you really do need the original BIOS - or at the very least a Suntac ROM for the same chipset (even then they can vary based on the other supporting chips). You could always try fitting different RAM - though your board has SIPP sockets you can either desolder them and fit SIMM sockets, or fit some SIMM modules into SIMM sockets and just insert the sockets into the SIPP holes - they are electrically identical.

The other thing is to remove and reseat every removeable chip. It costs nothing and it could just be a bad contact somewhere.

My collection database and technical wiki:
https://www.target-earth.net

Reply 4 of 19, by freetmool

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Very interesting thread and thanks for the original BIOS confirmation.

Haha yes I haven't used my 286 for 25 years , poor thing 😉

I'll order some SIMM to SIPP adapter and try that.

Could someone ask HanJammer if he could share his BIOS image if possible, please ?
He had posted the picture above and said it was working.
I don't have message privilege yet ...

Or any one else having it of course 😉
Thanks

Reply 5 of 19, by Predator99

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Why do you think your original BIOS is corrupted? Did you try to read it with your programmer?

A BIOS from a similar board will do. Most 286 boards accept "standard" BIOS. Here are some, did you try those?
80286 BIOS image collection

Reply 6 of 19, by dieymir

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I have almost the same board up and running. Mine has a 12Mhz processor and SIMM memory slots. BIOS is an AMI one dated 13/06/1990 Here is the image:

Filename
suntac.zip
File size
41.83 KiB
Downloads
40 downloads
File license
Public domain

Hope this helps.

Please, Could you upload the EMS driver for the board and or the manual?

Thanks a lot

Reply 7 of 19, by freetmool

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@Predator99
It's just a guess, I've tested the voltage, rams, reseated everything with deoxit, I have an error code 1-3-3 with a phoenix bios ( so the cpu seems to work ).
That would be nice to have a known good bios to compare with my programmer indeed.
Thank you for the link, very interesting.

@dieymir
Thank you for the bios image ! I'll try that for sure.
I'll upload the manual very soon.
The EMS driver will follow, I have to plug my 5 1/2-inch floppy drive to a PC with USB.

Reply 8 of 19, by freetmool

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Here is the User's Manual and display module for Turbo:

Filename
SUNTAC 320i 286 User Manual and Turbo Dispaly 404C.rar
File size
3.47 MiB
Downloads
42 downloads
File license
Fair use/fair dealing exception

Reply 10 of 19, by freetmool

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@Predator99

I've tried your "286-Morse KP286.zip" and it works !!!!!

Thank you !

Another problem arose , my VGA card has white vertical stripes and it's blinking ... so I can see half of the boot if I blink at the right moment 😉.
But that's very promising.

Reply 15 of 19, by Caluser2000

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freetmool wrote on 2021-01-22, 22:42:

Here it is 😀

IMG_1670.jpg

Great set up. GeoWorks Pro 1.2 and DrDos were the first things I put on my 286/16 in the very early '90s.

There's a glitch in the matrix.
A founding member of the 286 appreciation society.
Apparently 32-bit is dead and nobody likes P4s.
Of course, as always, I'm open to correction...😉

Reply 16 of 19, by Caluser2000

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Cyberdyne wrote on 2021-01-21, 12:15:

Wow nice, a 286 with IDE and floppy!

you need an original bios for that motherboard, you can not just swap out random bioses and expect them to work. even if they beep a little bit.

You have 1MB of memory, it is all good. Usually it is called bank 0.

286 with floppy and ide hdds was 'nt terrably rare from about '89 onwards. My '90 Zenith 286LP Plus has them. Those four connectors at the bottem are for 30 pin sipp ram. The board is very similar to the one I had ay back when. I maxed it out to four megs of sipps(had to remove the dipp ram first). At $nz100 a meg it wasn't cheap but I had a lot of disposable income back then. You can use 30 pin simm holders and plug them in to those sipp sockets and use standard 30 pin simms in them. just make sure you have the orientation correct when you fit the adapters.

There's a glitch in the matrix.
A founding member of the 286 appreciation society.
Apparently 32-bit is dead and nobody likes P4s.
Of course, as always, I'm open to correction...😉

Reply 17 of 19, by pan069

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freetmool wrote on 2021-01-23, 19:01:

Very nice 👍
Was it always that white or did you retrobright it ?

This is the color I got it in, other than cleaning I haven't done anything to it. It has a few scars, small crack in the top part of the plastic etc. But I think this my favorite case because it has all these odd curves and corners and the black plastic bits etc.

Reply 18 of 19, by Robin4

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megatron-uk wrote on 2021-01-21, 15:20:
I'm going through a similar process myself (see my 286 is dead, long live the 286 thread: 286 dead, long live the 286! Sourcing […]
Show full quote

I'm going through a similar process myself (see my 286 is dead, long live the 286 thread: 286 dead, long live the 286! Sourcing and building a fast 286 replacement).

I also had an original 286 board that was my first computer and used it on-and-off for many years. After putting it in storage 6 years or so ago it now won't POST successfully either.

These are old things, and I'm of the opinion that if we don't use them on a regular basis that they can degrade quite quickly. We're talking about 30+ year old IC's, capacitors and resister networks. They're going to fail at some point 🙁

Still, back your situation, yes I agree that you really do need the original BIOS - or at the very least a Suntac ROM for the same chipset (even then they can vary based on the other supporting chips). You could always try fitting different RAM - though your board has SIPP sockets you can either desolder them and fit SIMM sockets, or fit some SIMM modules into SIMM sockets and just insert the sockets into the SIPP holes - they are electrically identical.

The other thing is to remove and reseat every removeable chip. It costs nothing and it could just be a bad contact somewhere.

I would recommend to use Deoxit D5.. Use it myself to clean IC sockets and card slot or cleaning the contacts on surface mounted quad flat packs.

~ At least it can do black and white~