Welcome to the forum! 😀
Would you mind uploading quality pictures of your card so we can look for obvious problems?
No sound whatsoever on one channel could also be a problem with the audio jack or the cable you're using.
Did you make sure the rest of the signal path is ok i.e. by playing audio from another source?

Just to make sure... check and set the mixerset.

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-15, 11:02:

Welcome to the forum! :-) Would you mind uploading quality pictures of your card so we can look for obvious problems? No sound w […]
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Welcome to the forum! 😀
Would you mind uploading quality pictures of your card so we can look for obvious problems?
No sound whatsoever on one channel could also be a problem with the audio jack or the cable you're using.
Did you make sure the rest of the signal path is ok i.e. by playing audio from another source?

Sure. Let me take a few photos. There was a little corrosion on part of the board, but I cleaned it up to copper trace and it appears to still be good.

And yes, I’ve tried the line in and speaker out. Both are missing that right channel. And I’ve tried multiple speakers.

When you say mixerset, do you mean in Windows? If I shift all right, there’s just no sound.

Pictures attached. As I mentioned, there was a little corrosion over a trace, but I cleaned it up to the copper to check, and it’s fine as far as I can see.

Thanks for the pictures!👍
The whole area I have marked looks pretty nasty to me and I think you should try cleaning it up some more and check for countnuity on the vias.

One trace that looks particurlarly suspicious to me is marked in the second image I attached (taken from my working card). It is the via right next to R50. I believe this is one of the stereo channels and I'm not certain the trace is still connected to the via.

Could you check this on your card?

Lastly are those vias/connections good? They're on the same channel as as far as I can tell. Scrape away some of the crusty corrosion and see wether there's continuity from the nearby pad to the other side on the back of the pcb. Basically check wether all the red dots that are connected with red lines in the picture are still electrically connected. (I hope you get what I'm saying, my wording is terrible right now I believe.)

RoadWarriorB wrote on 2021-02-15, 17:28:

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-15, 11:02:

Welcome to the forum! :-) Would you mind uploading quality pictures of your card so we can look for obvious problems? No sound w […]
Show full quote

Welcome to the forum! 😀
Would you mind uploading quality pictures of your card so we can look for obvious problems?
No sound whatsoever on one channel could also be a problem with the audio jack or the cable you're using.
Did you make sure the rest of the signal path is ok i.e. by playing audio from another source?

When you say mixerset, do you mean in Windows? If I shift all right, there’s just no sound.

Mixerset is a DOS based mixer program by Creative. It should be in the same location as diagnose.

Run it in DOS and check the settings - make any adjustments and save it. Then test it.

Check this cool video for description:
https://youtu.be/xaf4lWI2TEk?t=1044

I mention this as I had the same "problem" with my CT3670 many moons ago 🤣

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-15, 20:06:

Thanks for the pictures!👍 The whole area I have marked looks pretty nasty to me and I think you should try cleaning it up some m […]
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Thanks for the pictures!👍
The whole area I have marked looks pretty nasty to me and I think you should try cleaning it up some more and check for countnuity on the vias.
this looks nasty.jpeg
One trace that looks particurlarly suspicious to me is marked in the second image I attached (taken from my working card). It is the via right next to R50. I believe this is one of the stereo channels and I'm not certain the trace is still connected to the via.
is this trace good.jpg
Could you check this on your card?
measure for continuity here.jpg
Lastly are those vias/connections good? They're on the same channel as as far as I can tell. Scrape away some of the crusty corrosion and see wether there's continuity from the nearby pad to the other side on the back of the pcb. Basically check wether all the red dots that are connected with red lines in the picture are still electrically connected. (I hope you get what I'm saying, my wording is terrible right now I believe.)

I’ll get to work on it and give you an update tomorrow. Thanks for the tips.

Also, is there anything you use for corrosion? Or just scrape it off?

In this case I'd just carefully scrape it off.
My guess is it's mostly at the surface and there's still good contact but with a layer of corrosion you will often not get good measurements.

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-16, 13:53:

In this case I'd just carefully scrape it off.
My guess is it's mostly at the surface and there's still good contact but with a layer of corrosion you will often not get good measurements.

Cleaned it up. No broken connections anywhere. Everything posting low ohm resistance on the places you had me measure.

Any chance it's a bad capacitor?

Good contact on all traces is a good thing. 👍 That means the card should be repairable.

Old electrolytic capacitors are never not suspect and usually replacing them on old ISA cards will improve sound quality but I can't tell you a recap will 100% fix your card when we haven't found the fault yet.

Did you try and see wether the audio jack is working?

Also did you try the mixer settings kixs suggested? It takes little time to check and it's a good suggestion.

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-17, 10:43:

Good contact on all traces is a good thing. 👍 That means the card should be repairable. […]
Show full quote

Good contact on all traces is a good thing. 👍 That means the card should be repairable.

Old electrolytic capacitors are never not suspect and usually replacing them on old ISA cards will improve sound quality but I can't tell you a recap will 100% fix your card when we haven't found the fault yet.

Did you try and see wether the audio jack is working?

Also did you try the mixer settings kixs suggested? It takes little time to check and it's a good suggestion.

Okay, finally got to testing it. Still no right channel audio out of the right side. Sometimes the center channel can be heard bleeding over a little, but that's it. I even moved it to another machine and am getting the same results.

So I'm thinking bad chip or bad cap somewhere. What would be the easiest to start with? Any way to test?

I'm confused about the center channel you're mentioning. The card only has a left and right audio channel.

What output are you using; line out or speaker out?

It looks like several capacitors have leaked on the card so a recap is in order, and that should fix all the problems the card is exhibiting.

Tiido wrote on 2021-02-28, 14:52:

It looks like several capacitors have leaked on the card so a recap is in order, and that should fix all the problems the card is exhibiting.

Just recapped the entire board with nichicons audio grade, and still not outputting on right channel.

Any other ideas?

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-02-28, 11:01:

I'm confused about the center channel you're mentioning. The card only has a left and right audio channel.

What output are you using; line out or speaker out?

Speaker out. What I mean by center channel is in SB diagnose, there's a sound test that plays left channel, right channel, and center. I'm not getting any right channel.

I have another card that's exactly the same model, and it isn't having any of the same issues. I've also tried this problematic card in two computers, both showing the same right channel issue.

C416 passes right channel to the speaker amp, it looks pretty crusty and probably is the culprit. You can also check L5 for continuity as it also is in line with right channel to speaker output.

The capacitor has 0.33µF capacitance, voltage rating should be anything higher than 12V. I'm not sure what the package code is though, 1206 perhaps.

You can also solder a normal e-cap instead of it, with + side toward the amplifier chip, it will also improve bass response at the normal 1...10µF capacitance.

Tiido wrote on 2021-03-01, 07:39:

C416 passes right channel to the speaker amp, it looks pretty crusty and probably is the culprit. You can also check L5 for continuity as it also is in line with right channel to speaker output.

The capacitor has 0.33µF capacitance, voltage rating should be anything higher than 12V. I'm not sure what the package code is though, 1206 perhaps.

You can also solder a normal e-cap instead of it, with + side toward the amplifier chip, it will also improve bass response at the normal 1...10µF capacitance.

C416? They don't go that high. Do you mind circling your suggestions it on one of the pictures I posted? This is my first time fixing a sound card.

Probably a typo for C146, an SMD cap just next to the damaged part of the PCB.