VOGONS


First post, by zero01101

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hi all, i apologize for just bursting in with a "please help me" but i'm genuinely at my wits' end. i swear i've read hours' worth of content here (as well as anywhere else google leads me) and it's all been either wonderfully helpful or confounding and causes me to question whether i should really be doing this. i'll try my best to be brief but there's some story involved, and much of it can probably be countered with "well, don't do that." i'll also refrain from naming any vendors i've used because i'm really not looking to advertise nor shame.

i recently came into ownership of my (dad's) intel 486dx33, 16MB FPM RAM, 64kB cache, AMI BIOS, 1MB trident VGA card, what appears to be an early-ish super-IO with a samsung chipset but is horribly damaged from battery leakage, i have no idea who manufactured the motherboard (and believe me i've looked) but it's a "486WB6A3.B1" assembled by and purchased from insight (enterprises?) circa ~1991. it suffered barrel battery leakage, of course. the obvious damage was the very top 16-bit ISA slot (literally every pin green) and the controller card that was plugged into it, and its rear ports. some timely but minor rust in case corners but nothing obviously electrically impactful.

the first time i booted it (without cleaning or testing anything because i am admittedly an idiot and that will be a recurring theme) it didn't catch fire, but it didn't do anything except a beep code which i later decoded as "no video output." disregarding a lot of triviality here but the relevant bits are: i got a POST card on which -12v (obviously bad) and +3.3v (maybe expected?) don't light up, the VGA card does in fact work but intermittently, and when it does it's so dim it's literally one shade away from "off". i picked up a CF-to-IDE adapter and gotek floppy emulator, but no IO of any kind admits to existing - i don't even have COM/LPT ports. (i have no plans on even powering on the floppies/HDDs this shipped with.)

i ebay a new controller card ("w-606 super-IO", winbond W83758P + W83757AF), new VGA card (similar trident 1MB), and hell, why not a new motherboard + CPU too (seemingly identical to BEK-4801/486WB, marked "486WB4A.B1" with identical "unremovable" i486dx33 as original motherboard, 8MB FPM RAM, 64kB cache, MR BIOS, apparently crappy CHIPS chipset?) - the intent is to resurrect my (dad's) old machine, but i clearly need some kind of a test platform. the 1MB trident VGA card arrives and nothing changes at all; it's still unreadably dim when it works at all. the w-606 controller card arrives and nothing changes at all; no COM/LPT/floppy/HDD in BIOS.

the new motherboard arrives, i set up a "test" bed area on a (different) motherboard box, plug in my old VGA card, the replacement controller card, power supply, and wire up the headers. i flip the switch, my VGA card protests by way of exploding tantalum capacitor and i reply in screaming un-flip the switch as this is literally my first experience with angry vintage hardware, i'm new here. i learn that tantalums of this vintage can do that and actually spend the time to test the "new" motherboard mounted in the case, in order, with nothing plugged in, then add POST card, then with (new) VGA (obviously) and all seems well. the new VGA card is very bright and readable, but when i add the controller card none of the IO is recognized in BIOS and i assume that's probably a side effect of the VGA catastrophe.

i get the morbid idea to test the old, corroded, has to be dead, literally looks gross controller card in the "new" motherboard, give it a quick once-over with 99% IPA, and am immediately greeted with 2x COM and 1x LPT address showing up in BIOS, and my feeble brain can't handle it. i decide to spend like 6 hours with vinegar and alcohol and distilled water and q-tips on the original motherboard and the surprise lazarus controller card as well. i also do some continuity testing on the motherboard where the battery leakage has done more damage than i thought, and bodge two wires onto traces that were determined faulty.

i plug the "cleaned" old controller card into the "new" motherboard, hook up the CF-to-IDE and gotek, and successfully install DOS 6.22! but for some reason edit and qbasic completely hang the machine, and looks like commander keen episode one does as well. an ancient microsoft KB 105187 suggests that the environment variable is too small, so i adjust my CF card's autoexec.bat and config.sys on a different windows 10 machine. it makes no difference.

i figure that i might as well try the original motherboard so i remount it in the case, plug in power and headers and test powering it on and receive the expected "no ega/vga" beep code, add the POST card to the realization that now both the -12v and +3.3v (?????????? undocumented -5v LED maybe?) are lighting up! plug in the VGA card, and it's bright as day! of course the w-606 controller is still unrecognized because i broke it in the explosion, right? so i plug in the lazarus controller, COM and LPT show up, disks are configurable, but i get a LOT of IO errors, particularly to C:, but to A: as well. that controller's dying. it's literally being eaten from the inside out, i'm sure of it.

i order a goldstar controller card from a quaint little internet storefront and i get an email about it going into pre-ship test which is really reassuring. i don't hear anything for long enough that i get impatient.

i believe that i find the source of these w-606 controllers (which seems to be the same place as where i got the first non-working one which is probably a bad sign) and order 2 for the same price as the 1 i previously ebayed.

i get an email that the goldstar controller failed testing, and happily approve a replacement with similar capabilities if it passes testing.

the 2 "new" w-606 controllers arrive, identical to the ebayed card except one has the silkscreen for the part on a different area of the card. for ease in identifying, the ebayed card is "QB"; the new one with the same silkscreening is "QA", and the new one with different silkscreening is "QC" because that's what the stickers say.

i begin testing the cards in the replacement motherboard with MR bios. card QB has never admitted to being a thing that exists in either motherboard. card QA causes the new motherboard to sing the beep code song LHLLH which seems to be "mainboard failure" and that's not encouraging, plus the POST codes are 0908 meaning essentially "Master 16-bit DMA controller failure" and "Memory refresh circuitry failure" respectively. replacing it with card QC causes the motherboard to... possibly POST, but i'm not sure, since the VGA card never outputs any signal? the post codes stop at 2120 which is "System key is in locked position" and "Fixed disk configuration change, diskette configuration change, serial port configuration change, parallel port configuration change, video configuration change, memory configuration change, or coprocessor configuration change" so yeah, i've gotta set some BIOS options, but my monitor is still in standby, so i have a bit of an issue with being able to do so.

i haven't tried either new controller card in the original motherboard yet; i figure there's probably no point if they don't even work in the otherwise demonstrably-working motherboard.

i've verified jumper settings as hard as i can and none of them make any difference so far. i'm seriously just completely lost. like, is it plausible that i got 3 bad cards from what turns out to be the same storefront and they all just fail completely differently? am i just missing something embarrassingly fundamental that i haven't even considered?

i genuinely just want to make sure my dad's old computer can play doom.

[edit, additional info]
-the "lazarus" card never once allowed me to install DOS on the original damaged motherboard, but did on the replacement - the replacement featured the edit/qbasic/ckeen hangs, and when i tested the CF-to-IDE with DOS already installed on the original motherboard, the exact same hangs were experienced
-completely forgot to mention but the gotek is running flashfloppy and initially worked very well on the replacement motherboard with the lazarus card, but performance and reliability quickly deteriorated (i.e. read/write errors to c: very common, a: semi-frequent). the gotek almost NEVER works well on the original motherboard; booting DOS 6.22 disk 1 and watching the "track" (??) ID on the gotek increment, it's easily an order of magnitude slower than on the replacement motherboard
-i have not yet received the "tested working" controller card yet from quaint canadian shop, not sure if that was evident
-jumper settings between the 3 w-606 controllers were tested on all defaults (https://i.imgur.com/5y0jYWw.jpg and https://i.imgur.com/ggwq2XB.jpg for jumpers/layout used) as well as "as close to" the lazarus card with the caveat that i can't set COM2 to IRQ7, as IRQ7 is only available on LPT for whatever design reason
-both motherboards will let me open BIOS setup reliably, the replacement will boot off a DOS 6.22 install disk 1 image via gotek, and the original sure tries but as mentioned, it's like 10x slower even accessing the disk image, and almost never reliably boots into DOS setup
-i've basically put the original motherboard on the backburner until i can get some kind of confirmation that i have working IDE HDD and floppy, and my best bet is the replacement ebayed motherboard which i can't guarantee at all that it works as expected but it sure seems like it would?
-i did completely successfully install DOS via the same gotek, USB drive with floppy images, CF-to-IDE adapter, and CF card using an IBM aptiva E3U model 2153 with onboard IDE controllers just as a sanity check that the storage hardware works, and yep, it works great, even runs edit/qbasic/commander keen without a single I/O error to be found!
-i have like over an hour of detailed videos cataloging my exploits for my own historical purposes, but didn't post a link since i really don't care to look like i'm just fishing for youtube view count 😐

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Last edited by zero01101 on 2021-02-27, 04:11. Edited 4 times in total.

Reply 1 of 12, by Horun

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Can you post a picture of the motherboards ? When I test old ISA or PCI based boards I never add any cards except a known good video card and see if it boots. You need to get a good vid card and start with that before adding any controller cards.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 2 of 12, by Tiido

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That board needs a lot of work before it can work properly with any card. All the corroded parts need to be removed, cleaned or replaced altogether. There's probably bad vias and other things too that must be repaired.

Some photos of both sides of the board near the battery will be helpful in figuring out what the extent of the damage is and where there may be some problems to deal with.

T-04YBSC, a new YMF71x based sound card & Official VOGONS thread about it
Newly made 4MB 60ns 30pin SIMMs ~
mida sa loed ? nagunii aru ei saa 😜

Reply 3 of 12, by Eep386

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Ouch! That original motherboard looks pretty much trashed from the VARTA bomb.
Can we get some pics of the replacement board too?

Also... on the 'working' setup, what are the CMOS Setup settings for the cache and RAM timing? Have you tried adding wait states to the DRAM and Cache, to see if that makes QBasic, Edit and Commander Keen behave a little better?
Better yet, can you provide a picture(s) of your CMOS Setup settings (both Advanced and Chipset Setup options, if possible)?

Bad RAM or power supply are also two possibilities as well.

Life isn't long enough to re-enable every hidden option in every BIOS on every board... 🙁

Reply 4 of 12, by zero01101

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my thanks in advance for anyone replying or even just reading, it's truly appreciated 😀

Horun wrote on 2021-02-26, 03:40:

Can you post a picture of the motherboards ? When I test old ISA or PCI based boards I never add any cards except a known good video card and see if it boots. You need to get a good vid card and start with that before adding any controller cards.

absolutely; there's an extracted video frame of the motherboard in my original post, but i'll certainly attach some better shots - wish i could attach more than 5 at a time, but it's probably wise to limit just so i don't upload like 6 gigs of garbage. i put the pics into imgur albums, hope that'll do instead of directly attaching 5 at a time and bumping the thread artifically 😒

completely agreed with testing order - ever since i popped that tantalum cap, i've been obnoxiously cautious to power-on with nothing, then a POST card, then a VGA card, and finally the controller card once everything else is working as expected.

Tiido wrote on 2021-02-26, 03:47:

That board needs a lot of work before it can work properly with any card. All the corroded parts need to be removed, cleaned or replaced altogether. There's probably bad vias and other things too that must be repaired.

Some photos of both sides of the board near the battery will be helpful in figuring out what the extent of the damage is and where there may be some problems to deal with.

yeah, figured i hadn't even scratched the surface of the full extent of the damage yet 🤣... there were 2 completely ruined traces near the battery nightmare which i bodged "successfully" according to continuity tests and my VGA card finally outputting a reliably bright signal, but i am 100% prepared to learn that in fact i'm just electrocuting the board harder than before and the bright video output is just a coincidental side effect 😀

Eep386 wrote on 2021-02-26, 05:20:

Ouch! That original motherboard looks pretty much trashed from the VARTA bomb.
Can we get some pics of the replacement board too?

🙁 🙁 news i was prepared for, but i don't love hearing it... pics of the new board likewise attached, my apologies for leaving it mounted in the case as i'm devastatingly lazy

Also... on the 'working' setup, what are the CMOS Setup settings for the cache and RAM timing? Have you tried adding wait states to the DRAM and Cache, to see if that makes QBasic, Edit and Commander Keen behave a little better?
Better yet, can you provide a picture(s) of your CMOS Setup settings (both Advanced and Chipset Setup options, if possible)?

Bad RAM or power supply are also two possibilities as well.

i have not actually made any adjustments to cache/DMA/shadowing/anything more substantial than disk geometry and boot order, figured i should probably have a baseline "well it runs DOS successfully" first, and that brief moment in which DOS did work (albeit with pretty obvious problems) caused me to assume that the defaults were good to go. complete and probably over-the-top album of BIOS/CMOS setup included below.

i HAVE been pretty curious about whether the PSU is all fine and good, but certainly don't trust myself with a multimeter enough to just start poking around with 230w just floating around 😐 similarly wondered about the RAM too, but figured POST would've complained about that at some point across the 2 boards and their combined 24MB... i did however pick up 4 1MBx8 sticks just to have some "spare" lying around, but haven't even taken that out of the shipping packaging yet 😒

as a corollary, IS there a way to test an ISA (or basically any other bus) expansion card without a known-fully-functional period-appropriate computer, beyond just verifying continuity with a multimeter? like obviously i'm not expecting to slap +5v on the edge connector and suddenly get "HELLO WORLD" out of the COM1 TX pin or anything, but simply checking continuity obviously didn't get me anywhere before with the silly w-606

ANYWAY thank you all again immeasurably, you are all wonderful delightful people and deserve a raise

original motherboard: https://imgur.com/a/d4UQokA
replacement motherboard: https://imgur.com/a/hPBiEGK
far too much CMOS/BIOS setup: https://imgur.com/a/ObXXYS5

Reply 5 of 12, by Deksor

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I identified your original motherboard here : http://www.win3x.org/uh19/motherboard/show/4592

Is it possible to image the BIOS please so I can add it to the page ?

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 6 of 12, by Eep386

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Thank you for sharing the pictures!
The new board appears to be one of several reference designs based around the OPTi 82C493/82C392 combo. Very nice that it has MR BIOS, these usually come with AMIBIOS.
This looks like a likely candidate: https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/Q/Q … C-486-P486.html

Under Chipset page in MR BIOS, try increasing the Read Waits and Write Waits to as high as they go, and re-test.
If it makes the system behave better, then reboot and go back into setup (Ctrl-Alt-Escape from a DOS prompt for the 'fast' way) and gradually reduce the timings until the system isn't stable anymore, and then go back and put them to the lowest value that was stable. You may wish to do the same for the Write Timing and Read Timing parameters under the Cache page.

Life isn't long enough to re-enable every hidden option in every BIOS on every board... 🙁

Reply 7 of 12, by zero01101

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Deksor wrote on 2021-02-26, 19:20:

I identified your original motherboard here : http://www.win3x.org/uh19/motherboard/show/4592

that's unreal, i've spent hours trying to identify this board 😁

Is it possible to image the BIOS please so I can add it to the page ?

i'd love to, but i don't know how i'd go about doing so with no way of getting data in or out of the machine - the only controller card i ever had ANY luck using was the corroded one, and the last time i even plugged it in, the LPT address stopped appearing in BIOS and trying to boot gave me "HDD controller failure" 🙁

Eep386 wrote on 2021-02-26, 19:54:

Thank you for sharing the pictures!
The new board appears to be one of several reference designs based around the OPTi 82C493/82C392 combo. Very nice that it has MR BIOS, these usually come with AMIBIOS.
This looks like a likely candidate: https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/Q/Q … C-486-P486.html

oh wow, thought i had it pegged as https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/B/B … 4801-486WB.html but that sure looks probable...

Under Chipset page in MR BIOS, try increasing the Read Waits and Write Waits to as high as they go, and re-test.
If it makes the system behave better, then reboot and go back into setup (Ctrl-Alt-Escape from a DOS prompt for the 'fast' way) and gradually reduce the timings until the system isn't stable anymore, and then go back and put them to the lowest value that was stable. You may wish to do the same for the Write Timing and Read Timing parameters under the Cache page.

soooooooo 2 read and 4 write waits ARE the max for those settings 😐 i didn't change the cache parameters yet, might give that a shot in a bit when i can get back to the machine... i don't suppose any of those settings would make any of the controller cards act any differently, particularly the one that simply cancels all video output when it's plugged in? i did try changing the "VACANT" entries in the shadow configuration to RW-Shadow, and noticed that C400/C800 video banks no longer say ROM #1, but also RW-Shadow and i sure don't THINK i set those ones, but i'm notorious for being incredibly wrong quite often 😀

Reply 8 of 12, by Deksor

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As long as you have the ROM chip there is a way. Of course having the motherboard working would be far better. But you can try the "hotswap" technique with another motherboard or get a TL866.

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 9 of 12, by zero01101

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Deksor wrote on 2021-02-27, 00:03:

As long as you have the ROM chip there is a way. Of course having the motherboard working would be far better. But you can try the "hotswap" technique with another motherboard or get a TL866.

i'd love to pick up an EPROM programmer at some point but i gotta wait for cash reserves to replenish 😐 i kinda doubt i'll have the nerve to hotswap BIOSes from different developers onto non-identical hardware 😁

[edit]

i can at least provide the POST string:

40-0101-ZZ9999-00101111-060691-OPWBSX-F

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Reply 10 of 12, by Deksor

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Thanks ! I have added it as well as your photo to the page.

Hotswapping shouldn't cause any issues due to different hardware. Most 486s use the same kind of ROMs.

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 11 of 12, by zero01101

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Deksor wrote on 2021-02-27, 15:52:

Thanks ! I have added it as well as your photo to the page.

Hotswapping shouldn't cause any issues due to different hardware. Most 486s use the same kind of ROMs.

so i was thinking about how i'd go about doing this if i worked up the nerve in the first place and realized even if i can successfully pull off a hotswap without catastrophic magic smoke release, i still lack any way of getting the data out of even the replacement motherboard - without a working controller card, i basically can't read or write data in any direction 🙁

i did try out the 2 new w-606 boards on the original motherboard just out of morbid curiosity; with the QA card installed, it fails to POST on codes 0x27 and 0x28 which doesn't seem quite as disastrous as the replacement board's "MAINBOARD FAILURE" song ... i guess? it sure isn't much better though. with the QC card, it ("expectedly") ceases to exhibit any video output, and the motherboard actually plays the 1:8 beep code for no video adapter and i don't even know how that'd happen; like how on earth would a super-IO card knock out a video adapter?

also for anyone curious, i grabbed pictures of the AMI bios on the original motherboard and they're attached below. serious apologies for the flicker/shutter speed/whatever it is that causes them to look like trash. there's really only like 3 pages of configuration, the majority of the main menu options are for default/apply/discard/reboot strategies

also also, i hope this is ok to post and not viewed as self-promotion and i will happily remove if not kosher, but i made a video of both motherboards and how they respond with no controller card, and then every individual controller card in case it'd be easier to see what the deal is with these stupid things: https://youtu.be/WrmrkWZkCEs

i presume there's quite literally no hope for any of the w-606s and i'm left to crossing my fingers that the card i ordered from canada passes testing this time? like this stupid interface adapter that i've never once thought about until a month ago is seemingly the lynchpin in progressing one way or another 🙁

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Reply 12 of 12, by zero01101

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well this debacle has drawn to a thrilling conclusion as i received my quaint canadian tested-working controller card today which, to my surprise, works perfectly so i can now return to denying the existence of these cursed w-606s. dad's 486 lives on! <3

@Deksor - as requested, your BIOS dump with my compliments 😀

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  • Filename
    486_AMI.zip
    File size
    37.26 KiB
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    File comment
    biosdump.bat/memdump.exe dump
    File license
    Public domain