Wasn't aware they ever used a hood / duct system for cooling the standard passive sinks (certainly not on the AP550 with dual 1GHz), and I don't see it as an option in the parts list?

Most of the best slot 1 water cooling options I've seen were designed and milled for a specific board layout.

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2021-06-02, 08:51:

Wasn't aware they ever used a hood / duct system for cooling the standard passive sinks (certainly not on the AP550 with dual 1GHz), and I don't see it as an option in the parts list?

RadicalVision Compaq AP550.jpg

Most of the best slot 1 water cooling options I've seen were designed and milled for a specific board layout.

Loving that huge speaker.

Oetker wrote on 2021-06-02, 09:08:

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2021-06-02, 08:51:

Wasn't aware they ever used a hood / duct system for cooling the standard passive sinks (certainly not on the AP550 with dual 1GHz), and I don't see it as an option in the parts list?

RadicalVision Compaq AP550.jpg

Most of the best slot 1 water cooling options I've seen were designed and milled for a specific board layout.

Loving that huge speaker.

I *do* have that speaker 😀

But regardless, even if Compaq didn't use the duct, I'm not happy with passive cooling performance and I want to use that Reserator.

Possibly something like this mod (slocket-based but I guess adaptable to native slot 1, and with both top & side port options)

https://web.archive.org/web/20011120144221/ht … ps197/index.asp

For waterblocks that have the ports on the side instead of the top, just do a search on ebay for....
waterblock

And then sort by price.

There are a bunch of different ones from China that are like that.

You just need to make sure that you match the material of your radiator with the waterblock so you won't get galvanic corrosion going on.

You will also need to come up with your own mounting mechanism but that is easy enough. For slot-1, you could either remove the heatspreader, make some metal straps and then drill and tap the heatspreader to bolt the waterblock in place or possibly even just use some bolts/nuts with washers through the standard cooler mounting holes.

Slot-1 and Slot-A is really easy to adapt to pretty much any type of cooler because of that huge heatspreader.

I have AP550 with 2 CPUs and stock cooling, CPU temp never reaches more than 40 degree C. Water cooling is overkill, you just need one big fan on rear panel and custom made cover.

Which Reserator model do you have? To be honest it was a failed construction.
80 C° with a 3,2 non-overclocked Prescott @ 100% is outrageous and that was in 2005.
Since it's a hobby project it doesn't really matter anyway, just not worth the hassle for a CPU with 29 W TDP even a small fan can manage.

If you're handy with a saw and drill you can make your own adaptor plate to use a recent CPU waterblock on Slot 1 CPUs.

Watercooling was still very niche on Slot 1 and I have personally never seen a premanufactured cooler. A classmate's older brother had a diy watercooler on his Slot 1 PIII that he made from an SECC2 cooler and ~6-8mm copper pipe. He'd bend the pipe to make a few loops, then he'd cut off the aluminium fins on the cooler and sand it down to a flat plate. He'd then flatten the pipe a bit where he'd want it on the heatsink (leaving the ends round to connect the tube) and solder it onto the aluminium heatsink plate. I think he used an oil cooler from a motorbike as a radiator and an aquarium pump.

Miphee wrote on 2021-06-03, 09:18:

Which Reserator model do you have? To be honest it was a failed construction.
80 C° with a 3,2 non-overclocked Prescott @ 100% is outrageous and that was in 2005.
Since it's a hobby project it doesn't really matter anyway, just not worth the hassle for a CPU with 29 W TDP even a small fan can manage.

The original one, which isn't great for keeping stuff cool but is for being quiet and looking good.

Then again, 80C with 3.2GHz Prescott non-OC sounds like something was wrong somewhere. I've seen good reviews of that thing getting a 3GHz Prescott down to 33C at load, and 41C at load OCd to 3.6GHz.

I'm expecting little trouble in keeping two P3s under 40C and am even considering adding the video card to the circuit.

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-06-03, 10:54:

If you're handy with a saw and drill you can make your own adaptor plate to use a recent CPU waterblock on Slot 1 CPUs.

Watercooling was still very niche on Slot 1 and I have personally never seen a premanufactured cooler. A classmate's older brother had a diy watercooler on his Slot 1 PIII that he made from an SECC2 cooler and ~6-8mm copper pipe. He'd bend the pipe to make a few loops, then he'd cut off the aluminium fins on the cooler and sand it down to a flat plate. He'd then flatten the pipe a bit where he'd want it on the heatsink (leaving the ends round to connect the tube) and solder it onto the aluminium heatsink plate. I think he used an oil cooler from a motorbike as a radiator and an aquarium pump.

I'm awful with plumbing, have had to replace my kitchen floor twice already over the last five years due to leaks, so definitely want to keep the bits water flows through ready-built. Adapter plates sound interesting though. The challenge as I see it is the four push-through pins connecting heatsink to CPU package. Do you have a diagram outlining what approach the adaptor would have?

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:10:

The original one, which isn't great for keeping stuff cool but is for being quiet and looking good.

Maybe you are right. The first model was excellent but the second model was notorious for overheating here. We even had a huge topic about it because it was ridiculously expensive but it's performance was poor. Anything is possible. To be honest it was way beyond the price range of the average gamer so people relied on (sometimes paid) reviews. I also have to note that it's often over 35 C° (95 F°) here in the summer so that certainly doesn't help.

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:10:

Do you have a diagram outlining what approach the adaptor would have?

I didn't but now I do. Sorta. 😅 I drew up some quick scetches using only professional graphics editing software. 😁
If you buy one of those cheap GPU coolers from Ebay (pic1) you'd probably need three additional parts: Two identical brackets (red, pic2) to go into the CPU retention frame and one bracket (blue, pic3) that replaces the black bracket on the cooler.
Obivously I didn't take any measurements but that would be my initial concept.

Maybe this will help if you haven't seen it already.
http://www.dansdata.com/senfu.htm

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:10:

Adapter plates sound interesting though. The challenge as I see it is the four push-through pins connecting heatsink to CPU package. Do you have a diagram outlining what approach the adaptor would have?

The simplest approach seems using a 'clip-on' style SECC 2 heatsink like f.e the Foxconn 135638-003 C:

Have the centre fins removed and the resulting surface milled to get the desired flatness for a tight fit with the waterblock. Mounting a block as in the link posted by PC Hoarder Patrol is relatively straightforward.

Why bother with hacking up the original heat spreader? The tdp of these CPUs don't warrant that.

Miphee wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:57:

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:10:

The original one, which isn't great for keeping stuff cool but is for being quiet and looking good.

Maybe you are right. The first model was excellent but the second model was notorious for overheating here. We even had a huge topic about it because it was ridiculously expensive but it's performance was poor. Anything is possible. To be honest it was way beyond the price range of the average gamer so people relied on (sometimes paid) reviews.

The review I was looking at for the 1 was legit (I know the reviewer), and I managed to buy it for EUR 25. For that price it was "grab first, think of what to do with it later" 😜

I also have to note that it's often over 35 C° (95 F°) here in the summer so that certainly doesn't help.

Yes, I remember the one summer I spent in Budapest. Fondly, but that was due to other reasons for getting sweaty 😉

Doornkaat wrote on 2021-06-03, 12:02:

I didn't but now I do. Sorta. 😅 I drew up some quick scetches using only professional graphics editing software. :D If you buy o […]
Show full quote

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 11:10:

Do you have a diagram outlining what approach the adaptor would have?

I didn't but now I do. Sorta. 😅 I drew up some quick scetches using only professional graphics editing software. 😁
If you buy one of those cheap GPU coolers from Ebay (pic1) you'd probably need three additional parts: Two identical brackets (red, pic2) to go into the CPU retention frame and one bracket (blue, pic3) that replaces the black bracket on the cooler.
Obivously I didn't take any measurements but that would be my initial concept.

Hmm, yes, I can see how that would work. A bit worried about a copper block with my aluminium reserator though...

Miphee wrote on 2021-06-03, 12:02:

Maybe this will help if you haven't seen it already.
http://www.dansdata.com/senfu.htm

Tnx. Had spotted it earlier, but discarded it because Athlon Slot A used SECC1. However on re-reading it it also mentions SECC2 lower down.

The thing that worries me is reliably ensuring contact when mounted. Particularly with the cheapest aluminium blocks like these:
https://www.ebay.nl/itm/282445758166?hash=ite … ncAAOSwkShY~kQB

So dirt-cheap I can easily buy a couple on the off-chance it actually works in a non-leaking way. But keeping it pressed onto the core is another matter.

That is why you attach the waterblock to the stock heatspreader plate. There is no reason at all with these CPUs to mount the waterblock directly on the CPU die.

cyclone3d wrote on 2021-06-03, 21:30:

That is why you attach the waterblock to the stock heatspreader plate. There is no reason at all with these CPUs to mount the waterblock directly on the CPU die.

OK, but how do you attach it? Soldering would probably only give me contact round the edges...

A thermal epoxy would work for that application

dionb wrote on 2021-06-03, 22:45:

cyclone3d wrote on 2021-06-03, 21:30:

That is why you attach the waterblock to the stock heatspreader plate. There is no reason at all with these CPUs to mount the waterblock directly on the CPU die.

OK, but how do you attach it? Soldering would probably only give me contact round the edges...

I already said how to up above:

You will also need to come up with your own mounting mechanism but that is easy enough. For slot-1, you could either remove the heatspreader, make some metal straps and then drill and tap the heatspreader to bolt the waterblock in place or possibly even just use some bolts/nuts with washers through the standard cooler mounting holes.

If the radiator is copper, you want a copper waterblock. If the radiator is aluminum then you want an aluminum waterblock. This is to avoid galvanic corrosion which will lead to the waterblock and/or radiator becoming clogged.