snufkin wrote on 2021-06-07, 20:57:

Is there something between the slots 3 & 4, near the top?

I tried to pry it out but it disappeared under slot 3.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2021-06-08, 09:10:

Did you try different RAM sticks in that board?

It's possible that you fried the sticks you inserted backward and that the board is still fine.

I have two other modules, which I inserted into Bank 0. No result: still long continuous beeps after turning on the system.

You never said so explicitly, that's why I ask: After the system failed when you set it up for 150MHz, did you switch back to 133MHz? Double-check the speed jumpers. Continous beeps might also occur when the processor can not handle the speed you request, so you might want to double-check the speed selection jumpers.

Odiseo wrote on 2021-06-08, 16:57:

snufkin wrote on 2021-06-07, 20:57:

Is there something between the slots 3 & 4, near the top?

I tried to pry it out but it disappeared under slot 3.

So there was something there? Could you tell if it looked metallic? Either way, probably want to get it out of there. Try holding the board vertically and gently tapping the edge opposite where that fragment went under slot 3, see if you can persuade it to come out again. Or try using a needle to pull it out. If you can get it out of there, then post some new pictures of the area. If it is metallic then it could have shorted out a couple of pins on the simm slot, which at the least would cause memory faults.

mkarcher wrote on 2021-06-08, 17:29:

After the system failed when you set it up for 150MHz, did you switch back to 133MHz? Double-check the speed jumpers. Continous beeps might also occur when the processor can not handle the speed you request, so you might want to double-check the speed selection jumpers.

I checked a few hours ago and, apparently, I had reset the jumpers to 100MHz (the board's initial speed) on Sunday.

snufkin wrote on 2021-06-08, 18:16:

So there was something there? Could you tell if it looked metallic? Either way, probably want to get it out of there. Try holding the board vertically and gently tapping the edge opposite where that fragment went under slot 3, see if you can persuade it to come out again. Or try using a needle to pull it out.

I did all of that. I didn't see the fragment again.

I'm quite angry with myself. I made pictures of all the FP header cables for later reference, but not the RAM slots with installed modules. This stings. I was looking forward to computing with a Socket 7 system.

I'm calling it quits with this motherboard. I might get another Socket 7 board.

If anyone wants to have this motherboard, don't hesitate to tell me. You can have it for free, including the two RAM modules.

It's a Chaintech 5IEM0.1 (2A59CC3AC-00). Details about the board are available here and here.

Here's a list of other things I can throw in for you (off the top of my head): two graphic cards (one ATI Rage, one possibly broken Voodoo 3 PCI), more RAM modules (EDO/FP, SDRAM, DDR1, DDR2), processors (two P4 chips, one Core2Duo e6320), one 5.25" floppy drive, two PCI modems, two serial ports.

All of that is for free. Just tell me if there's something you're interested in. You can send me a private message.

If you haven't already, might be worth one last try plugging memory and cpu back in. You've moved that fragment, so you could see if the behaviour has changed.

snufkin wrote on 2021-06-08, 20:53:

If you haven't already, might be worth one last try plugging memory and cpu back in. You've moved that fragment, so you could see if the behaviour has changed.

I did so after I had tapped on the side of the board and tried to pry under Slot 3 with a needle. Same result as before: long continuous beeps.

I so wish I had made pictures of the RAM modules in their slots when the system would still POST. However, there is nothing I can do about it. If there's a way to fix it, then I'm far from tech-savvy enough to do so.

Maybe someone else on this message board could pull it off. That's why I'm offering it for free.

Most of the other components I listed are still functional. I don't have a use for them, but taking them to my nearest recycling centre seems like a waste. Anyone who is interested can have all of it for free.

EDIT
Thanks for the help, everyone!

These things happen sometimes. After finally tracking down and fixing the actual cause of a fault on a cd drive a few months ago, I got it all reassembled, then got careless (end of long day excuse) and managed to plug an eprom in the wrong way round; that didn't go well (disappointing lack of smoke). Kind offer for the parts, I won't have time any time soon to make good use of them, but others will. Roughly where are you?

snufkin wrote on 2021-06-08, 21:35:

Kind offer for the parts, I won't have time any time soon to make good use of them, but others will. Roughly where are you?

I'm in Belgium.

Assuming the board died because I had inserted the RAM modules backwards (albeit only loosely/halfway), could other components be damaged too? Specifically, the power supply and CPU? The video card?

It's sad if the board is really damaged, but I believe You'll find another one that will works for You and build yourself a new machine. You can measure the PSU, if it gives the correct voltage on the Molex connectors, it'll probably be fine. The video card should also be fine, as should the CPU.

Ydee wrote on 2021-06-09, 09:51:

You can measure the PSU, if it gives the correct voltage on the Molex connectors, it'll probably be fine.

I don't have a multimeter. I can go pick one up at a hardware store after work in a few hours. I've been googling for guides on how to use a multimeter to test an AT power supply. Can you point me towards a good guide suitable for beginners like myself?

I've been thinking and it's important to be certain this PSU is good. Who knows, it might have died too when I (supposedly) killed the motherboard. I don't want to destroy another Socket 7 motherboard.

Odiseo wrote on 2021-06-08, 21:37:

Assuming the board died because I had inserted the RAM modules backwards (albeit only loosely/halfway), could other components be damaged too? Specifically, the power supply and CPU? The video card?

The CPU - maybe, depending how the data pins are wired. I think they go through the chipset? Can't remember now if Pentiums had 5V tolerant I/O or not. CPU shouldn't be completly dead if you get beeps - that means it can execute BIOS code. I don't see how it would affect any cards, and PSU can easily fry anything on the mobo before it would die itself. Just to be sure you can measure the voltages it outputs.

With that weird something between the slots, either it moved somewhere and is causing a short, or perhaps the chipset has been damaged. Either way I would expect another mobo to work. Hopefully the RAM sticks survived too but those can be damaged as well now.

Odiseo wrote on 2021-06-09, 13:23:

I don't have a multimeter. I can go pick one up at a hardware store after work in a few hours. I've been googling for guides on how to use a multimeter to test an AT power supply. Can you point me towards a good guide suitable for beginners like myself?

Here's an illustrative example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or7_Za_dYBE
Yellow wire is 12V, red 5V, black are the ground. I personally set the multimeter to the desired range (this is 20V DC) before measuring.

About the photo: I see a speck on one of the contacts, couldn't it have prevented the module's contact with the slot?

Ydee wrote on 2021-06-09, 15:22:

Yellow wire is 12V, red 5V, black are the ground.

I bought a CAT III multimeter a few days ago and finally got round to testing the AT PSU today.

My multimeter indicated 11.68V on the yellow wires of three different molex connectors. So not quite 12V. Is this an acceptable result?

The result on the red wires was 5.10V.

I think, that tolerance for AT PSU is similar as for ATX. For 12V rail is +/-5%, that means 11,4V -12,6V is ok. For 5V rail is 5% too, so 4,75V-5,25V.

Ydee wrote on 2021-06-12, 13:01:

I think, that tolerance for AT PSU is similar as for ATX. For 12V rail is +/-5%, that means 11,4V -12,6V is ok. For 5V rail is 5% too, so 4,75V-5,25V.

So, as I had been suspecting, the PSU should be good.

I'm looking for another Socket 7 motherboard. I created another topic. Thanks for the help.

What you really should check is ripple current, not only voltage.

How old is the PSU? I don't really trust any AT PSUs anymore. Most of them were absolute crap back in the day when they were new and time has only made them worse.

Best thing to do as far as PSUs go is to get a good quality NEW ATX PSU and use an ATX to AT adapter.

matze79 wrote on 2021-06-12, 13:37:

What you really should check is ripple current (...).

I'm reading up on this.

cyclone3d wrote on 2021-06-12, 14:46:

How old is the PSU?

No idea. I guess 25 years. Maybe more.

cyclone3d wrote on 2021-06-12, 14:46:

Best thing to do as far as PSUs go is to get a good quality NEW ATX PSU and use an ATX to AT adapter.

Good idea. I started thinking about doing so after finding out adapters like that exist.

matze79 wrote on 2021-06-12, 13:37:

What you really should check is ripple current, not only voltage.

.
That´s right, but Odiseo just wanted to know, if his source was destroyed, when his SIMM module was inserted in reverse. He needs an oscilloscope for ripple current measurement, if he wants to do it. Cheaper to get new ATX PSU including reduction ATX/AT.

@Odiseo: please no ebay links and no requests for sales on Vogons.