VOGONS


Reply 20 of 31, by Hoping

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I don't have many tools, just a soldering iron,flux and a heat gun. So in these cases what I do is destroy the part to be disassembled, being careful not to damage the board, the part is damaged and is useless so it does not matter, and then I remove the pins one by one. If I want to remove the entire socket without damaging it from a damaged board I turn the board upside down and heat with the heat gun until it falls off by itself. It has also worked for me with broken memory banks.
I know this sounds gross and is sloppy and took a long time but it has worked for me.

Reply 21 of 31, by SETBLASTER

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Hoping wrote on 2021-08-29, 14:47:

I don't have many tools, just a soldering iron,flux and a heat gun. So in these cases what I do is destroy the part to be disassembled, being careful not to damage the board, the part is damaged and is useless so it does not matter, and then I remove the pins one by one. If I want to remove the entire socket without damaging it from a damaged board I turn the board upside down and heat with the heat gun until it falls off by itself. It has also worked for me with broken memory banks.
I know this sounds gross and is sloppy and took a long time but it has worked for me.

by using heat gun, you mean like the black and decker from the home depot? at what temperature? does that method burn the white plastic of the bracket on the other side of the motherboard?

i might give that a try, i did once try that method with the heat gun of a soldering station and it did not fall, and when i tried to pull the bracket out the plastic bended

Reply 22 of 31, by Ydee

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I had the same problem on Asus, luckily I had a three-eye clasp that solved it. The radiator sits straight even though only one tooth holds it on one side. Because of the capacitors, the clasp had to be bent. Lesson learned: wanting to use the socket A radiator on the socket 7 is not always a good idea...

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Reply 23 of 31, by Hoping

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by using heat gun, you mean like the black and decker from the home depot? at what temperature? does that method burn the white plastic of the bracket on the other side of the motherboard?

i might give that a try, i did once try that method with the heat gun of a soldering station and it did not fall, and when i tried to pull the bracket out the plastic bended

Yes, the heat guns used to strip paint and bend pvc pipes. The temperature, I cannot say for sure since the heat gun I have is cheap and I do not trust what it indicates much, I only care that it can be regulated. Of the times that I have removed components with this method, in some cases I did notice a little heat in the plastic, but the motherboard and the flux, prevents me from directly heating it so the components I wanted to recover worked well, what happens to me frequently the socket comes out without a pin that comes loose from the heat but it is not a problem because it is enough to put them back in place in the socket.
I only did this with a socket 462, a DDR memory bank and a PCI slot.

Edit: Don't use the heat gun on the board you want to repair.

Reply 24 of 31, by BitWrangler

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SETBLASTER wrote on 2021-08-29, 14:53:
Hoping wrote on 2021-08-29, 14:47:

I don't have many tools, just a soldering iron,flux and a heat gun. So in these cases what I do is destroy the part to be disassembled, being careful not to damage the board, the part is damaged and is useless so it does not matter, and then I remove the pins one by one. If I want to remove the entire socket without damaging it from a damaged board I turn the board upside down and heat with the heat gun until it falls off by itself. It has also worked for me with broken memory banks.
I know this sounds gross and is sloppy and took a long time but it has worked for me.

by using heat gun, you mean like the black and decker from the home depot? at what temperature? does that method burn the white plastic of the bracket on the other side of the motherboard?

i might give that a try, i did once try that method with the heat gun of a soldering station and it did not fall, and when i tried to pull the bracket out the plastic bended

It's possible to use "paint stripper" type heatguns on larger components, you can even fashion a nozzle from a soda can or foil plate. However, it's better to get a dual temperature model if possible as the "low" setting of 230-250 degrees or so is more agreeable to electronic work than the high temp of 400-500 (Centigrade) BUT the hot air pencils are getting as cheap as "brand name" paint strippers now, so it's not so much of a saving with the cheapo/used $10-15 gun vs the $500 rework station as it used to be a decade ago. However, boards need a lot of heat power to let those big components go, so having a stripper gun on hand is not a bad idea, when the precision tool isn't cutting it, they're just not very precise, you don't wanna kick the bench leg accidentally and have ALL the components fall off, instead of just the one you're trying to pull.

Burning the plastic shells of things can happen, which means it's best to keep heat controlled, and applied indirectly. If trying to salvage a part in perfect condition to re-use, rather than keep a board in perfect condition, so you trash the part to pull it, then it's often easier to cut out the piece of board it's on with side cutters or a saw, so that you're not heating up 100 square inches of ground plane and only 4 or 5 to get it to let go.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 26 of 31, by SETBLASTER

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hey thanks for the tip, im doing experiments with my black and decker heatgun. i just place the motherboard on 2 bricks, each on each side of the motherboard, and when the temperature is high enough i just hit a near part with a screwdriver handle

socket 462 : did at fast airflow, high temperature but things went not to good for 1 or 2 pins.

memory socket: did it fast airflow, high temperature but the plastic melted, dimm sockets have like 6 metal pins and i think i need to cover those with something , maybe glue + aluminum foil on those holes so air does not go to the other side

socket 370. i did at low airflow , medium temperature, on a pentium3 slocket , took more time but the socket came out perfectly

i was going to do a big purchase on that site because i needed sockets for cpu, simm slots for my awe32 wich are horizontal slots, but now that i can test with the heatgun i will try to remove some parts from dead motherboards. and the awe32 i will just use regular vertical ones from a dead motherboard, i don´t think there is much of a difference with horizontal slots, i will just leave an empty isa slot if it takes more space.

Reply 27 of 31, by Kahenraz

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I don't know how much a heat gun costs but a cheap rework station can be had for less than $40 on eBay and it will let you easily adjust the temperature and the flow rate of the air coming from the nozzle. This is the correct too to use for rework like this.

I can't imagine a situation where any heat gun would be preferred over even the cheapest of hot air rework stations when it comes to precision electronics.

Reply 28 of 31, by quicknick

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Cheap rework station won't desolder a CPU socket, unfortunately. Been there, other folks mentioned that I should have used a heat gun 😀
I think it's also mentioned in this thread. Even on full power it takes way too long, socket doesn't come off easily, if you pull it the plastic bends like a banana.

Reply 29 of 31, by cyclone3d

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Here is the caty-cornered heatsink clip. It is not original to this cooler but it is not a home-made clip either.

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Yamaha modified setupds and drivers
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Reply 30 of 31, by Warlord

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Id recommend agisnt using the kinda heat guns you buy at the hardware store. While plenty powerful enough in some cases, its too easy to melt your board. The only times Ive seen this successful is you have it dialed in on a mount and are using temperature sensors. In this case they can be used to reflow things or preheat. But it requires engineering not just waving the thing in the hand. Because you can go from solder melting point to overheating and burn your board in a matter of seconds. I suppose with a lot of practice you could do it. I've used heatguns like that in the past to remove a ps2 port off a dead board for parts and I melted the PCB getting it off.

Reply 31 of 31, by BitWrangler

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Yah I put mine on a hand drill, drill stand, I found cheap, so I could keep it at constant distance... and when I first started screwing around, handheld IR temp sensors were still expensive ($200ish) so I was using the remote sensor on one of those indoor/outdoor thermometers, and also a dollar store oven thermometer, to make sure I wasn't going overboard on the temperatures. When I needed to protect other parts, plastic shells, capacitors, etc, I'd blanket everything in tinfoil with just a hole for the part I was working on.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.