It's made by FSP, should be a solid unit for a P2/P3 after a recap. When ordering replacements make sure to measure diameter because the caps are quite cramped in those units and larger ones usually won't fit.

TheMobRules wrote on 2021-09-20, 06:16:

It's made by FSP, should be a solid unit for a P2/P3 after a recap. When ordering replacements make sure to measure diameter because the caps are quite cramped in those units and larger ones usually won't fit.

Righto I'll keep that in mind , is there anything else I should be wary of ,
like maybe different brands of caps behaving differently voltage distribution wise?
Or is that not really an issue?

AppleSauce wrote on 2021-09-20, 06:27:

Righto I'll keep that in mind , is there anything else I should be wary of ,
like maybe different brands of caps behaving differently voltage distribution wise?
Or is that not really an issue?

Go with any of the 4 known quality Japanese brands (Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon or Chemi-Con). For the little caps you can use pretty much anything as long as it's rated 105C. If you're going to replace the two big caps on the primary (not strictly necessary, those don't fail often) try to get snap-in caps, they will fit better in there.

The series you choose is important for the caps on the different outputs (especially +5V, +12V, +3.3V and +5VSB). For those get low ESR caps, but try to avoid the ultra-low ones, those may cause problems. Good series for a PSU of that era would be Nichicon PW/PM, Rubycon YXF/YXG or Chemi-Con LXZ. Try to search for series with specs similar to those.

When recapping a PSU that is almost identical to yours I found that there were no replacements of the 10V rated caps at the +5V output that would fit, so I used caps rated at 6.3V as they were smaller. But you must be careful if you're going to go with a lower rated voltage, it's important to know what voltage there will be across that cap. In some cases manufacturers use custom made caps that are smaller than what is commercially available and you run into these issues.

TheMobRules wrote on 2021-09-20, 07:09:

For those get low ESR caps, but try to avoid the ultra-low ones, those may cause problems. Good series for a PSU of that era would be Nichicon PW/PM, Rubycon YXF/YXG or Chemi-Con LXZ. Try to search for series with specs similar to those.

i second this. on primary side, you can mostly pick what you want.
but on the secondary, specially at the output, try to stay with equivalent to what they have choose.

low or ultra low ESR/impedence, can cause the regulation feedback to become unstable.
no risks for burning something, but you can get weird behaviour. such as very nice and very strong coil whine 😁
i did the mistake with ultra low ESR on a PS/2 model 35 psu, the manufacturer simply used regular capacitors.
and the higher ESR actually serve to the regulation feedback.

whaka wrote on 2021-09-20, 08:10:

i second this. on primary side, you can mostly pick what you want. but on the secondary, specially at the output, try to stay wi […]
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TheMobRules wrote on 2021-09-20, 07:09:

For those get low ESR caps, but try to avoid the ultra-low ones, those may cause problems. Good series for a PSU of that era would be Nichicon PW/PM, Rubycon YXF/YXG or Chemi-Con LXZ. Try to search for series with specs similar to those.

i second this. on primary side, you can mostly pick what you want.
but on the secondary, specially at the output, try to stay with equivalent to what they have choose.

low or ultra low ESR/impedence, can cause the regulation feedback to become unstable.
no risks for burning something, but you can get weird behaviour. such as very nice and very strong coil whine 😁
i did the mistake with ultra low ESR on a PS/2 model 35 psu, the manufacturer simply used regular capacitors.
and the higher ESR actually serve to the regulation feedback.

How can i find out what ESR they have? , would it be in the spec sheet or would I have to use a ESR meter?
Btw it seems all the bulging caps are Jamicons.

yes, look for brand and series letters (usually 2 or 3 letters) then look for datasheet. "regular" esr, is usually given with 120 Hz frequency.
and low/ultra low are usually expressed with 100 Khz frequency.

but when they are low esr/impedance, it's (usually again 😁) clearly stated in datasheet.
esr meter is fine as long as you know what you're expected to find for a particular capacitor... and depending of the ferquencies it use.
so with "regular" esr, if you test them with 100 Khz... of course, they'll give a very high esr. and you may think they are bad, but... no they're probabely not.
or only if they show a ridiculously very very high one. but, what's a ridiculously high ? where's the limit to consider that ? not so easy to say.
datasheet is always your friend for that.

some low capacities aluminium can give 30 ohm at 120Hz, and still be good and in spec with what the manufacturer say.

I have this model (re-capped)... Some of its voltages are a little out of spec and over the years in my testing, Asus motherboards had their OCP triggered with this PSU attached. It's probably nothing to worry about.

Another reason why I wouldn't use it is the lack of a modern 5VSB circuit. The old designs put quite a bit of load on the 5VSB circuit which caused premature failure of the standby capacitor (or transistor).

You should just use a new, modern PSU. Honestly, it's not worth the trouble.