Maybe a faulty new capacitor.

Do you have a POST card to see how far it is getting in the POST process?

I haven't seen a POST card before now. I'll try to pick one up.
I do know it was tested half way through the replacement and worked, so its definitely possible there was a faulty capacitor.

Just an idea. Asus boards are notorious for having the silkscreen on the caps the wrong way around (solid white or hatch pattern at the positive terminal instead of the negative). If you and your friend didn't pay attention to this, the caps might be installed backwards.

That is a good call quicknick as this is one of those boards. However they are in the orientation they were originally installed (backwards from the silkscreen)

I got a post card that will arrive Saturday to see if that gives me any more information.

I would check all the thin traces around the replaced caps very carefully under a good magnifying glass or microscope for damages / interruptions.
I damaged some thin traces by accident especially on ASUS boards years ago when I was recapping them in a hurry. The coating ASUS used on the soldering side seems to be of a poor quality on some models so even if you do not overheat and don´t apply any force there´s still seems to be a risk of damaging traces besides / around the soldering joints.

I’ll try to take a close look at it. If I think I find something should I use this on it?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002882744930.html

Dog wrote on 2021-10-28, 19:09:

I’ll try to take a close look at it. If I think I find something should I use this on it?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002882744930.html

Those trace repair strips are going to be super duper tiny.

If I have a broken trace, unless the gap is large enough to need an actual strand of wire or bodge wire to repair, I'll just jump the gap with solder. Just have to scrape a bit of the coating off each side of the break so you get to the copper.

I got the POST Card and I'm getting a C0 response. If I'm not mistaken this means I need to turn off the shadow configuration, but I'm unsure how to do that without getting in the bios.

Have you considered the BIOS may have become corrupted?
If you or your buddy have a EEPROM programmer you could just reflash it.
Alternatively if you have access to another board with the same EEPROM socket you could attempt a hot flash.

Lastly there's always a chance the board received ESD damage from handling. It's not my prime theory though.

Last time I was getting a C0 I was wondering about how to fix it. even removed the cache chips, yet no go, so I placed the cache chips back... always that c0

until I changed the é"pçè!è ram . booted without a hitch or glitch, though that was on a pentium motherboard, not a p2/p3 board. so ymmv.

weedeewee wrote on 2021-11-01, 09:44:

Last time I was getting a C0 I was wondering about how to fix it. even removed the cache chips, yet no go, so I placed the cache chips back... always that c0

until I changed the é"pçè!è ram . booted without a hitch or glitch, though that was on a pentium motherboard, not a p2/p3 board. so ymmv.

Right! OP doesn't appear to have changed the RAM yet. If you have them try different RAM and CPU before bothering with my BIOS suggestions.😅

Edit: typo

Check continuity on the installed caps. Make sure the negative leads are connected to ground, and make sure the positive leads of the VRM are connected in parallel.

What I think happened is that the guy who repaired your board destroyed it... This can happen when the via is torn out while either improperly removing or inserting a cap.

Also, post a list of the capacitors that were installed. If defective caps were installed, then that would also explain things.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Post pics of your friend's work.

cap testing with multimeter could be bad connections with flux or even reslot the card into motherboard sometimes.
Louis Rossmann channel on youtube shows great surface mount soldering.

I have switched the RAM. I have three sticks that I’ve tested in another machine to boot. I do have a multimeter. I’ll post some pictures in a bit.

I uploaded some pictures here:
https://imgur.com/a/MfweaEE

I took the heat sink off to try to increase visibility, and its my iphone attempting to auto stitch a pano of the board. I can focus on a particular area if someone thinks it'll be beneficial.

Direct links to full res:
https://i.imgur.com/RvPi5oi.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/g1O7Jay.jpeg

Also for comparison I found some photos here I was trying to compare against:
http://hw-museum.cz/mb/54/asus-tusl2

I need to get a battery for my multi meter, that'll be my next step after work.

Looks like a short to me.

I think you might be right, here is a closer look at that spot.

Eh, it's not worth fighting with your friend over.

Get another board and send it to a pro to do it.

No fighting, I'm just trying to get better at this. Mistakes happen, and as majestyk mentioned earlier its very easy to have this this kind of damage. I just didn't see it.

I feel kinda excited about it.