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What do you drive?

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Reply 603 of 677, by chris2021

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1998 Grand Prix GT. Looks gnarly, drives exceptionally well for 180k. I paid 300$ for it in early 2016. I have probably put nearly 2k$ in parts, including tires and struts and all new break lines, labor was always free (well ...). I have several hundred in parts I have yet to install. No plans of getting rid of it. They made them up until 2008, 2004 on arguably has a nicer body style. The GPs since the early or mid 90s often had a 3800 v6. Probably the BEST day to day engine ever made (in a 6 cylinder). If for no other reason it has iron cylinder heads.

Reply 604 of 677, by BitWrangler

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I like buying cars cheap that needs brakes, tires and struts, because a) you know why they're cheap and b) it's an old beater but at least you're rolling on new brakes, tires and struts now.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 606 of 677, by chris2021

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So like a wizard I drive 25 miles last night with my radiator cap off. The fluid wasn't even that low when I replenished it. Did I degrade my gaskets? Other possible damage? The car seems to run a little hotter before the thermostat opens up. Man what a moron I am.

98 Grand Prix 3800.

Reply 607 of 677, by BitWrangler

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Well your major worry in winter, is if you had bubbles forming in the heads, meaning no flow, and hotspots there... presuming that in summer, it would boil over so quick you'd not run it long. But if you didn't lose much and you're not seeing any "mayonnaise" from oil and water mixing then you're probably fine. Don't panic if there's a thin film of "mayo" on the oil cap though, that's a condensation thing in winter, panic if it's visible down the filler or on the dipstick. Keep an eye on your fill though, it might burp out a bubble or two with a couple or three full warmup cycles and you'll need to top off.... some cars burp best nose up, if you can find a hill or run the front on ramps.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 608 of 677, by chris2021

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Drove it all over today. No issues, quite the contrary it runs like a top. 185k, 6 years and 300$ later (plus 2k$ in parts I would imagine) still going exceptionally strong. Despite the stupidity of the driver.

Yeah I know all about mayo/custard. I ruined 1 engine already by being a fool. Different vehicle.

Reply 609 of 677, by Sphere478

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Bolt EV, charge it on the solar that runs my house.

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Reply 610 of 677, by pancakepuppy

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A 2003 Dodge Neon (2L, 5 speed) which has provided endless opportunities for becoming a better mechanic, haha. Fixed all the stuff that made the check engine light go on at least.

Reply 611 of 677, by Meatball

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I drive this. I built the engine myself, among other areas. I don't just enjoy retro computers!

We also have a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L. 150, 000 miles and still going strong.

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TitanXp/980Ti/260/7950GT-GX2/6800U/6200/5950U/4200/GF3-2/TNT1-2
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Reply 613 of 677, by DaveJustDave

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Meatball wrote on 2022-01-24, 02:57:

I drive this. I built the engine myself, among other areas. I don't just enjoy retro computers!

We also have a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L. 150, 000 miles and still going strong.

very hard to find a clean foxbody anymore. I should have grabbed one when they were cheap.

For the matter, if there is a gas powered ANYTHING you want, now is the time to grab it.

I have no clue what I'm doing! If you want to watch me fumble through all my retro projects, you can watch here: https://www.youtube.com/user/MrDavejustdave

Reply 614 of 677, by Sphere478

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chris2021 wrote on 2022-01-24, 03:03:
Sphere478 wrote on 2022-01-24, 01:01:

Bolt EV, charge it on the solar that runs my house.

How often do you need tires?

They seem to be good for like 60-70k idk car has 153k on it I got it at 130k when second set where about worn out.

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Reply 616 of 677, by y2k se

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chris2021 wrote on 2022-01-24, 20:19:

The reason I ask is because electric vehicles are said to be much heavier then gas cars. Hence they're prone to wear tires out faster.

Within the scope of passenger cars, car weight has little impact on tire wear. More important are tread rating (how soft is the tire), driving habits and proper maintenance (inflation, rotation).

Tualatin Celeron 1.4, ASUS P2B, 512 MB, GeForce 3 Ti 200, Voodoo2 SLI, AWE64, WD 80GB SE HDD, Dell 2007FP

Reply 617 of 677, by Sphere478

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chris2021 wrote on 2022-01-24, 20:19:

The reason I ask is because electric vehicles are said to be much heavier then gas cars. Hence they're prone to wear tires out faster.

I had the tire wear problem on my fiat 500e but not so much on the bolt.

It’s not the weight. They are usually around the same or a little bit heavier.

It’s the fact that a 2wd car does most of it’s braking and acceleration on only two wheels and electrics are much more powerful at low speeds than a typical gas car is of course there are exceptions which is why I say typical.

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Reply 618 of 677, by chris2021

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So the Pontiac is running amazingly. W/o the burden of the a/c pulley bearing tormenting me (and to think I drove 250 miles round trip w/that thing in that condition), it sounds as smooth as silk. Don't know if I frigged up something worse, car eventually wouldn't start 20 miles from the house. I installed a delete pulley and merely shoved the compressor out of the way. With a promise. I have the pulley bearing, had it for some time. Just never attacked the issue.

Reply 619 of 677, by creepingnet

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I guess since this is turning into the "what I did to my car today thread". Both my cars are needing work at this point. It's just hard to get anything done when you're building a hospital's I.T. infrastructure, darn-near sick every weekend with some stomach/anxiety based malady, and dealing with various family-related issues on top of it.

93' Explorer Sport - Throttle cable stuck yesterday, put off the clutch and revved to 4K (rev limiter) and went back down after working the gas....kicking it in from there though showed that engine is anything but tired...never seen an Explorer hit 60 before in 8 seconds (open road, and 8 secs is what it felt like - I was more concerned with getting the truck home). Been having a few issues with "cables" of sorts anyway (my trip odometer stuck at one point and I ran out of gas). Also I think the anti-slosh module might be why my fuel gauge has not worked in 20 years....since it reads and slowly drops any time I start it up. May be able to fix the original though. So I guess that's this year's projects for the X. Also almost time for a tuneup (oil change, new plugs, wires, coil, rad-flush, t-stat, etc.)

10' Corolla S - Need to do the body work on it now that the insurance mess is settled (some fuckboy rear-ended it while my wife was taking care of me while sick). I've got a major dent in the fender to pull out and then trying to decide between new bumper cover or epoxy the old one (I still have all the parts of it....it'll be like patching together a giant NEC Versa 486, 🤣). If it's new might be time to ask for a paint spray setup of some kind since I'll have to paint the bumper myself. Other than that, it's like any other Corolla....just keeps on running.

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