wrote:Experience has taught me, its not worth the cost. If you need a faster video card, spend the $100 on a better gpu/cpu and you will be better off.
Well, in my case it's not about speed and I don't even overclock. I just want my stuff to last. Heat is a big problem these days as It kills stuff so easily.
Regular dusting and cleaning is the best thing you can do.
It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.
wrote:Experience has taught me, its not worth the cost. If you need a faster video card, spend the $100 on a better gpu/cpu and you will be better off.
Custom-Water looping is not always about "Faster" or "overclocking" a lot of times it's about noise. One could take a video card that say, the fans would have to be loud at 75% - 80% when gaming, compared to water cooling it and using a little bigger radiator than necessary and only running radiator fans at 25% and be whisper-quiet instead.
Also it -drastically- reduces the temps of most video cards. My GTX 470's water cooled ran around max load gaming 40c - 45c (stock speeds), whereas the original 480's (all of them) air cooled ran around 85c - 90c gaming, with their fans at 100%.
Granted... I was then running them later at +36% core overclock, +60% voltage and +25% ram overclock and still only hit 50c gaming load with fans at 50% on the radiator.
Although, it may reduce component operating temperatures... the other side is even custom water loop'ed, it doesn't change the amount of heat displaced into the room. So it has some benefits, but in some ways it's no different than air cooling.
wrote:Well, in my case it's not about speed and I don't even overclock. I just want my stuff to last. Heat is a big problem these days as It kills stuff so easily.
Generally, components that run cooler will last longer.
finally got one! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … _-sr-_-orc-_-na
Main system has been without a proper video card for 3 weeks. I'm set for the next few years. ^.^
It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.
wrote:finally got one! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … _-sr-_-orc-_-na
Main system has been without a proper video card for 3 weeks. I'm set for the next few years. ^.^
Nice, I bought a Sapphire card myself. I'm quite pleased with it.
wrote:finally got one! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … _-sr-_-orc-_-na
Main system has been without a proper video card for 3 weeks. I'm set for the next few years. ^.^
Keep an eye on the vrms on this card as just like the 1060 it gets into the 90s there under load, you can do a fairly safe mode to bring that down a bit with vram or vrm stick on heatsinks to the back of the card above where the mosfets are. Peal and stick then you set, better than letting them hit 90 to 100c+ while gaming as the last thing anyone needs is to crash or lose a card in the middle of a raid or just before a tournament starts.
On a far away planet reading your posts in the year 10,191.
The version I got actually has a pre-installed backplate that is supposed to help with this. Also a dvi - DP converter as my main monitor is still DVI-D
It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.
wrote:wrote:finally got one! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … _-sr-_-orc-_-na
Main system has been without a proper video card for 3 weeks. I'm set for the next few years. ^.^
Keep an eye on the vrms on this card as just like the 1060 it gets into the 90s there under load, you can do a fairly safe mode to bring that down a bit with vram or vrm stick on heatsinks to the back of the card above where the mosfets are. Peal and stick then you set, better than letting them hit 90 to 100c+ while gaming as the last thing anyone needs is to crash or lose a card in the middle of a raid or just before a tournament starts.
I would be very very surprised if cards sold in 2016 don't have heatsinks on the vrm chips by default. That's been a standard on most mid-range and high-end video cards since.. like the GeForce 7800 GTX.
wrote:wrote:wrote:finally got one! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … _-sr-_-orc-_-na
Main system has been without a proper video card for 3 weeks. I'm set for the next few years. ^.^
Keep an eye on the vrms on this card as just like the 1060 it gets into the 90s there under load, you can do a fairly safe mode to bring that down a bit with vram or vrm stick on heatsinks to the back of the card above where the mosfets are. Peal and stick then you set, better than letting them hit 90 to 100c+ while gaming as the last thing anyone needs is to crash or lose a card in the middle of a raid or just before a tournament starts.
I would be very very surprised if cards sold in 2016 don't have heatsinks on the vrm chips by default. That's been a standard on most mid-range and high-end video cards since.. like the GeForce 7800 GTX.
Modern cards often have a mid plate while the reference cards the portion to cool the vrms is part of the main cooler but the problem is that the contact isn't very good and the thermal pads don't get to perform as there isn't enough pressure while other times there is still a very small gap. The RX 480's issue is that the contact isn't good but the vrm design is good unlike the 1060 but very easy to fix. 1060 is just a time bomb (reference cards). The easiest way people can improve the cooling without any hard core modding let alone removing the main cooler is just as the method I had suggested plus they are removable 😉
What I mean by this just look at what some have done to improve the cooling on some 3DFX cards without messing with the stock cooling.
On a far away planet reading your posts in the year 10,191.
Decide to play with that your "VR" so for 30$ i got this:
Yes i already found way to connect it to pc and play with,no i still didn't do it.
Not really modern or retro per se, but I got myself a Dell Ultrasharp 2007FP monitor.
the CRT I use for my retro PCs is dying (the picture is getting darker to the point of eye strain, also some weird flashing on the screen) and so I decided I wanted an LCD , but a 4:3 one which can do 1600X1200 like the studio display.
the 2007FP does that , and looks pretty damn good too, has VGA, DVI , S-video and composite ,plus a bunch of USB ports, its an S-IPS monitor with an acceptable 16ms response time (I can't notice any ghosting, though a competitive gamer would probably notice)
I really need to get a better camera....photo was taken in the dark as it looked awful otherwise.
Finally the two oldest components of my main PC were replaced - 2008 Samsung T220 and WD Blue 640GB. 😀
Acer XF270HU - 27'' 2560x1440 IPS, 144 Hz refresh. Really huge upgrade from old 22'' TN. 😈 Should be also suitable for retro gaming using period-correct GPU connected via DVI. The LCD itself is capable of 1:1 display mode, so no ugly interpolation. 1600x1200 should work just fine, perhaps even 1920x1440 (4:3).
Since Seagate 7200.14 failure rate is way too high to even consider buying them 😵 and all WD non-Black edition are 5400 rpm... Toshiba is the only way to get decent 7200 rpm drive, for very good price too. 😀
//edit - 7200.14 of course, not 7200.12
HW museum.cz - my collection of PC hardware
wrote:Since Seagate 7200.12 failure rate is way too high to even consider buying them 😵 and all WD non-Black edition are 5400 rpm... Toshiba is the only way to get decent 7200 rpm drive, for very good price too. 😀
Western Digital Blues are 7200 RPM too. I have 8 of em in my file server.
See here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp … ICE&PageSize=30
Smaller drives, yes - but 3TB 7200rpm WD Blue doesn't exist. Not even 2TB, at least in local shops.
HW museum.cz - my collection of PC hardware
HGST Deskstar NAS drives are 7200rpm and are available up to 6TB.
I just checked our local prices and WDC Black 4TB is only about $12 more expensive than HGST Deskstar NAS of the same size. From quality/reliability standpoint, the Black is still better than the HGST, right?
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."—Arthur C. Clarke
"No way. Installing the drivers on these things always gives me a headache."—Guybrush Threepwood (on cutting-edge voodoo technology)
wrote:Acer XF270HU - 27'' 2560x1440 IPS, 144 Hz refresh. Really huge upgrade from old 22'' TN. 😈 Should be also suitable for retro gaming using period-correct GPU connected via DVI. The LCD itself is capable of 1:1 display mode, so no ugly interpolation. 1600x1200 should work just fine, perhaps even 1920x1440 (4:3).
It would be awesome if you could do a write up after checking out its retro gaming compatibility 😊
wrote:Not really modern or retro per se, but I got myself a Dell Ultrasharp 2007FP monitor.
the CRT I use for my retro PCs is dying (the picture is getting darker to the point of eye strain, also some weird flashing on the screen) and so I decided I wanted an LCD , but a 4:3 one which can do 1600X1200 like the studio display.
I really need to get a better camera....photo was taken in the dark as it looked awful otherwise.
And same for you 😀 If you find the time of course.
wrote:I just checked our local prices and WDC Black 4TB is only about $12 more expensive than HGST Deskstar NAS of the same size. From quality/reliability standpoint, the Black is still better than the HGST, right?
At least according to BackBlaze, HGST have the lowest failure rates.
https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-rel … -stats-q1-2016/
If you poke around, you will find older blog posts that cover older hdd models. A couple of years ago, Seagate drives were failing at atrocious rates. It looks like their newer models are doing much better, but I'm still leery of Seagate drives made in the past 10 years. Their drives back in the 90s and early 2000s were rock solid, and it seems like their 2016 models are doing well (according to BackBlaze link above).
The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks
Sold two of my 1080p Viewsonic LCDs from my 3x1080p Eyefinity setup last week, and just today I bought their replacement: the ASUS MG278Q.
27 inches, 1440p, 144hz, AMD Freesync. Would have loved to get IPS with that as well (the MG279Q for example) but I couldn't justify another €120 on what was already quite an expensive monitor. I've read that the TN panel in this one is one of the best TN panels out there though, so I'm happy.
Can't wait to get it set up!
wrote:It would be awesome if you could do a write up after checking out its retro gaming compatibility :blush: […]
wrote:Acer XF270HU - 27'' 2560x1440 IPS, 144 Hz refresh. Really huge upgrade from old 22'' TN. 😈 Should be also suitable for retro gaming using period-correct GPU connected via DVI. The LCD itself is capable of 1:1 display mode, so no ugly interpolation. 1600x1200 should work just fine, perhaps even 1920x1440 (4:3).
It would be awesome if you could do a write up after checking out its retro gaming compatibility 😊
wrote:Not really modern or retro per se, but I got myself a Dell Ultrasharp 2007FP monitor.
the CRT I use for my retro PCs is dying (the picture is getting darker to the point of eye strain, also some weird flashing on the screen) and so I decided I wanted an LCD , but a 4:3 one which can do 1600X1200 like the studio display.
I really need to get a better camera....photo was taken in the dark as it looked awful otherwise.
And same for you 😀 If you find the time of course.
from what Ive checked so far, the monitor works quite well with DOS games, obviously the monitor will display the resolutions in a somewhat upscaled fashion though it is at 70hz (it was 720X400x70 for most games I think), and the picture is very nice (a bit more jaggy looking than a CRT but thats normal for an LCD with low resolutions)
one issue I did notice were several EGA platformers , mainly the Commander Keen games as well as Crystal Caves where the screen becomes darker and has a slight red hue to it, this happened on both a Voodoo5 and a Matrox Millenium II. When I tried the same games with an ATI Rage Pro or an S3 Virge , the problem disappeared. I've seen this happen with a Voodoo3 before as well with another LCD monitor
so it does have a few quirks like that, but its more general quirks that happen with alot of LCDs .
