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Win10 Tips, Tricks, and Workarounds

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First post, by clueless1

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What tips, tricks and workarounds have you found for Win10? Here's a couple of recent ones I've found while helping clients:

-Problem: "internet" goes down for hours at a time, sometimes rebooting helps.
-Background: this started being reported in early December on random Win10 machines. In environments with dozens of Win10 systems, typically only a few are affected. Most theories say it was introduced in the November Update Rollup. On the affected systems, DHCP stops working. When the lease expires, the machine is given an APIPA address instead of a valid IP.
-Workaround/Solution: usually ipconfig /release ipconfig /renew will clear it up until the next lease time expires. It's also reported that giving the PC a static IP eliminates the problem. Supposedly Microsoft Update KB3201845 fixes it, but some report it does not. Reading the release notes of that KB, it doesn't mention anything about this problem, so it's not clear why this patch is supposed to fix this problem. It's theorized that this issue only happens with certain network interface brands/models, which would explain why it doesn't happen on all computers.
reference: https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/194716 … g-on-windows-10

-Problem: computer becomes extremely slow.
-Background: this started happening in the past week or so as well, possibly related to November Rollup. Checking Resource Monitor shows 100% Disk usage all the time. Digging deeper, the "system" process, running "WPR_Initiated_DiagTrackAotLogger_WPR System Collector.etl" is the one consuming all disk time, bogging the entire system down. This process is tied to "Feedback and Diagnostics".
-Workaround/solution: Go to Privacy->Feedback and Diagnostics and change Feedback and Diagnostics to "Basic". You can also disable the service "DiagTrack", but I believe that will only last til the next reboot. No acknowledgement/official fix yet from MS. Again, this does not seem to happen on all Win10 systems, only some.
reference: https://www.tenforums.com/performance-mainten … lector-etl.html

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Reply 1 of 23, by Jorpho

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Trouble is, things are changing too quickly for one tip to be relevant for long, or so it seems. I thought the "Anniversary Update" might be the end of it, but things only seem to be getting worse.

I hear running "netsh winsock reset" is useful for when the Internet goes down.

Reply 2 of 23, by clueless1

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Jorpho wrote:

Trouble is, things are changing too quickly for one tip to be relevant for long, or so it seems.

Good point. This could still be a thread where problems are reported while they are still in the wild, as a heads up to others, so they can get confirmation that it's not just them. Quick workarounds are welcome until MS decides to fix the problem.

Jorpho wrote:

I hear running "netsh winsock reset" is useful for when the Internet goes down.

Yes, that's one of the workarounds reported. Although, giving the PC a static IP seems to be the one that always works when the other workarounds don't.

The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks

Reply 3 of 23, by ratfink

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Interesting about the network issue, I have two pcs which have developed intermittent "no internet" problems at various times in the past year. Different hardware. Rebooting usually fixed it. I could see no pattern.

One pc runs vista ultimate, eventually I just turned off the onboard LAN and used a wireless card [reinstalling drivers also seemed to fix it, but that caused hangs too.. leading to reboots... so may have been flakey drivers or hardware... ]; been fine since so far.

The windows 10 box seems to have not been a problem lately. Not sure whether I turned off the Killer NIC and moved to the onboard LAN there [the Killer NIC had had intermittent issues previously].

I did wonder if windows updates might have been the cause of these problems. Frustrating.

Reply 4 of 23, by dr_st

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Just hit one issue today, on the first day of using it. 😀

Problem: Scaling sucks. Half of the programs have text that looks sharp at 100% but blurry at 125%, and the other half is exactly opposite.

Problem Update: Apparently programs with blurry text at 100% is a side effect of having the DPI in an inconsistent state, if you change it before signing out / rebooting. Really the issue is only with applications that cannot scale properly, so Windows scales them in a naive way, causing blurriness.

If it's an application you can modify its shortcut and set "disable scaling" in the compatibility tab. It will not be blurry, but will not scale up either (staying small). However, this problem affects also some Windows components, like the Management Console (mmc.exe) and its sub-components (e.g. Device Manager), and for them such a modification is not available.

Solution: Download Win10 DPI Fix Utility which can revert to the old scaling method that Win8 used. (logoff/logon is required every time the settings are changed). This allows the DPI-unaware programs to scale and in a nice way.

Solution limitation: Does not support individual scaling settings for different displays (a limitation of the Microsoft APIs).

Last edited by dr_st on 2017-01-13, 17:09. Edited 2 times in total.

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Reply 5 of 23, by FFXIhealer

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Jorpho wrote:

I hear running "netsh winsock reset" is useful for when the Internet goes down.

Please be very careful about telling people to do this. This isn't a "fix" so much as it is a "bulldoze the entire TCP/IP stack and replace it with a brand new one" step and is a very drastic procedure to do on a PC if the situation doesn't actually require it. This is only used when it has become clear that the TCP/IP network stack within Windows itself has become corrupt. This command replaces all of the internal TCP/IP protocols and DLLs from Windows's protected backup that it created when it first installed.

Moving away from that, I have a lot of experience with Windows 10 and there are a number of things I ALWAYS do when setting up a PC for a new client. Let me take a VERY LONG post here to explain them.

First, when starting Windows 10 for the first time, there's a window that shows you that there are Express Settings. There's a link on the bottom-left side of that window that says "Customize". I ALWAYS click that link. Then I turn EVERYTHING OFF and hit Next (there are 3 screens of this). Yes, one of those is the SmartScreen filter for IE, but considering that the default web browser is Edge and Edge doesn't even bother with that setting at all, I still turn it off. It can always be turned back on later. The equivalent of this is to open Settings > Privacy > General and to turn all of those off.

I also go into that same page after Windows 10 starts to turn OFF Location services (only really useful on laptops), Camera apps (if you don't even have a camera), Microphone (same reason), "Speech, inking, & typing" (in order to TURN OFF Microsoft recording everything you type and having it sent to them), Call history (because who uses PHONE on Windows 10?), Messaging (same reason - only useful if you have an actual Windows phone), Radios, Other devices. I turn them ALL OFF.

Then I go into Feedback & Diagnostics and I set it to NEVER and BASIC.

Then - MOST IMPORTANT - I go to Background Apps. Here....EVERYTHING is turned on! This is SO STUPID! Turn all that shit off! Nobody wants Netflix running in the damned background unless they click on the app to load it! It's wasting TONS of background processing time - especially noticeable on anything less than a quad-core i5 or an equivalent AMD processor.

Then, after doing all of that, I go into the "Cortana" search and I open Registry Editor (search for: regedit). Here's where I get nifty. Try to follow me on this.

To DISABLE F%&@(#(ing CORTANA:
Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE / SOFTWARE / Policies / Microsoft / Windows
Create a new KEY here called "Windows Search" (without the quotes, of course).
Enter that key and create a new DWORD (32-bit) value and call it "AllowCortana" (no quotes, no spaces).
Make sure the default value is 0.
This is a hard-bypass of the fact that Microsoft REALLY wants you to have Cortana running so they can data-mine all your searches and stuff. Before the Anniversary Update, you could turn off Cortana by going into Cortana and telling it to shut itself off. After Anniversary (build 1601), you couldn't unless you get down into the registry like this. By the way, while we're here....

To DISABLE Windows 10 automatically installing stupid apps like Candy Crush Soda Saga:
Navigate to the same location as before: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE / SOFTWARE / Policies / Microsoft / Windows
But instead of creating "Windows Search", this time we create the key "CloudContent" (no spaces).
Inside this new Key, add a new DWORD (32-bit) value and call it "DisableWindowsConsumerFeatures" (again, no spaces).
Set THIS value to 1. Now you're done with the registry.
This stops Windows from installing pointlessly stupid apps like Twitter, Skype, Candy Crush, etc. from automatically installing themselves even though you never f@#%$&ing asked for them. But it DOES still allow you to go into the Windows Store app and click Install from there. It will still install apps like that. It just won't do it automatically.

After closing Regedit, I now clean out the stupid shit in the Start Menu. The biggest offender? 3D Builder. This is for people who have a 3D Printer. I don't know of ANYONE who does, so we can safely assume this is a useless waste of space app and uninstall it. I also uninstall Paid Wi-Fi (whatever it's called), News, Money, Sports (all BING-related apps, I might add), etc. Just go down the list and look for stuff that you know you'll never use and see if you can right-click / Uninstall App. No, you can't uninstall the XBOX app. But you CAN remove it from the list. I'll get to that later.

After all of this, you probably need to go ahead and restart your PC. The registry settings alone won't take effect until you log out and log back in, but a restart would be warranted at this point anyway. When you come back, Cortana's circle won't be there anymore. Only the magnifying glass of the Windows Search box. I also right-click my taskbar and turn that into an icon only, so I get lots of my taskbar back. If I want to search, I'll go ahead and click the icon myself, thank you. I also turn off "Show Task View Button" because I have 3 damned monitors. I don't need multiple desktop displays that that button works with.

I then return to Settings > System because I want to go to Default apps and change Microsoft Edge to <insert favorite web browser here>. If it's not on the list, download it and install it. Then change it. I prefer Google Chrome.

I also then go to www.adobe.com and install Adobe Reader DC, as I prefer the features over the built-in PDF viewer: Microsoft Edge (AGAIN! DAMNIT!!#!&%!). I then have to set all defaults to this program in Settings > System > Default apps. Same thing with Java if you need it.

Now, on to disabling Microsoft's data-mining. The first thing you should do is scrub your Services.msc app. You can find it by doing a simple search for that exact phrase: "services.msc". The first one that jumps at me is "Connected User Experiences and Telemetry". This is the DiagTrack services. Stop and disable.
"DataCollectionPublishingService" - If you don't use Microsoft OneDrive or any similar Windows 10 native app, turn this shit off. Mine's on Manual (triggered) and it usually stays off for me.
That's it for what I see on mine. If you REALLY want to be paranoid, you can download Spybot Anti-beacon. It's capable of shutting down ALL Microsoft access to your computer, including all BING websites (it adds a bunch of items to your HOSTS file to zero them out).

Now, does anyone even care to hear why I will never built another computer with only one hard drive again?

First off, I'm totally a believer in SSDs. I'll never go back. But does EVERYTHING need to be on an SSD? No. So I could totally get by with a 120GB SSD and a 1-3TB HDD. This lets me run the OS and programs from the SSD and redirect all the user profile folders like Videos, Music, Pictures, Desktop, and Downloads to the slower HDD. The system still boots like lightning and programs open with a snap, but do you REALLY need 3.2GB/s read speeds when listening to a 3MB MP3 file for 4 minutes? Or watching a 2-hour movie from a 1GB file? Really?
I also configure that big spinner as the backup location for Windows Backup. I copy a full C: image as well as incremental file backups. This is why I have a 3TB drive in this very computer. You can always reload that system image to a new hard drive and BAM, back in business in less than an hour. Or if you had a bad Windows Update? BAM, 30 minutes later and you've rolled back to last week. I'm a believer in system backups now too, so any system I build now will have a small SSD (120-256GB) for the OS and programs and a LARGE (1-3TB) spinner drive (HDD) for data storage.
But that wasn't enough for me on THIS system. I had to also get a 1TB SSD for my GAMES to run off of. So I have a 256GB SSD C:, a 1TB SSD D:, and a 3TB HDD L:.

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Reply 6 of 23, by buckeye

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FFXIhealer - thanks for win10 install tips. Getting ready to do a fresh install, will come in handy!

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Reply 7 of 23, by clueless1

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Great stuff, thanks FFXIhealer!

The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks

Reply 8 of 23, by Malik

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Yep, I've repartitioned my SSDs to contain the OSs (I have both Win10 and Win7) in 60GB partitions and redirect everything else to the much more economical and HUGE space HDD. All my media files and program files are directed there, except the bare minimum for Windows.

The first thing I do, is uninstall all the bloatwares :

In Windows Powershell : […]
Show full quote

In Windows Powershell :

Get-AppxPackage *3dbuilder* | Remove-AppxPackage - 3dbuilder

Get-AppxPackage *windowscommunicationsapps* | Remove-AppxPackage - calender & mail

Get-AppxPackage *officehub* | Remove-AppxPackage - get office

Get-AppxPackage *skypeapp* | Remove-AppxPackage - skype

Get-AppxPackage *zunemusic* | Remove-AppxPackage - Zune music

Get-AppxPackage *windowsmaps* | Remove-AppxPackage - maps

Get-AppxPackage *solitairecollection* | Remove-AppxPackage - solitaire collection

Get-AppxPackage *bingfinance* | Remove-AppxPackage - money

Get-AppxPackage *zunevideo* | Remove-AppxPackage - movies & tv

Get-AppxPackage *bingnews* | Remove-AppxPackage - news

Get-AppxPackage *onenote* | Remove-AppxPackage - onenote

Get-AppxPackage *people* | Remove-AppxPackage - people

Get-AppxPackage *windowsphone* | Remove-AppxPackage - phone companion

Get-AppxPackage *photos* | Remove-AppxPackage - photos

Get-AppxPackage *windowsstore* | Remove-AppxPackage -store

Get-AppxPackage *bingsports* | Remove-AppxPackage - sports

Get-AppxPackage *soundrecorder* | Remove-AppxPackage - voice recorder

Get-AppxPackage *bingweather* | Remove-AppxPackage - weather

Get-AppxPackage *xboxapp* | Remove-AppxPackage - xbox

I don't use any of these, so I uninstall them.

Also, I uninstall OneDrive :

Disable OneDrive Everywhere in Windows and Apps Completely […]
Show full quote

Disable OneDrive Everywhere in Windows and Apps Completely

Type GPedit.msc and hit Enter or OK to open Local Group Policy Editor.
Navigate to Local Computer Policy -> Computer Configuration -> Administrative Templates -> Windows Components -> OneDrive.
In the right pane, double click on policy named Prevent the usage of OneDrive for file storage.
Select the Enabled radio button.

taskkill /f /im OneDrive.exe
%SystemRoot%\System32\OneDriveSetup.exe /uninstall (32-bit)
%SystemRoot%\SysWOW64\OneDriveSetup.exe /uninstall (64-bit)

rd "%UserProfile%\OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "%LocalAppData%\Microsoft\OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "%ProgramData%\Microsoft OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "C:\OneDriveTemp" /Q /S

REG Delete "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\{018D5C66-4533-4307-9B53-224DE2ED1FE6}" /f
REG Delete "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Wow6432Node\CLSID\{018D5C66-4533-4307-9B53-224DE2ED1FE6}" /f

5476332566_7480a12517_t.jpgSB Dos Drivers

Reply 9 of 23, by FFXIhealer

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I was in the middle of writing a post to this effect, but you beat me to it. Nice.

I will warn you, however, that if you use the Windows Backup (Windows 7) feature that I do in the Control Panel, if you try to CREATE IMAGE, then Windows will include in that image ALL DRIVES that contain automatic startup items.

What does that mean? Well instead of a 60GB backup image, MY PC would have a 580GB backup image as it sucks in the contents of the D: drive if I don't get very specific about what programs are installed where.

Perfect example: iTunes. I had iTunes installed on the D: because it's an SSD, but I didn't see the need to use space on my C:. Turns out, that mistake cost me a lot of backup room on my 3TB drive, because iTunes auto-loads the Apple Drivers that your iPhone/iPad/iPod all use to communicate, so because of the "Apple Mobile Device Service", there's ALWAYS a call to the D: so Windows includes it as part of the full system image backup.

To prevent this, you have to install iTunes on the C: itself. With 120GB or 250GB, it's not hardly any space. Then you tell iTunes to look in your 3TB spinner drive for all its files and it sets up the library there, not your SSD. Problem solved.

I had similar issues with other programs, so Google Chrome is on C:, AVG (my anti-virus), etc. The only programs I have NOT installed on C: is Steam (because I specifically set it NOT to start with Windows) and all the games went on D:, CPUID, Reaper x64 (my DAW), Battle.net, CyberLink Power2Go10 (my burning software), VLC, and Zandronum (for Brutal Doom) are all installed to my D:.

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lhbar1.png

Reply 10 of 23, by Jorpho

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This is probably covered somehow in the lengthy list of advice above, and for all I know Microsoft might have changed it already, but perhaps it bears repeating:

Never tell Windows 10 you want to sign up for any kind of online Microsoft profile, because apparently once you do that, there's no way to go back to just using an ordinary, local, offline Windows account on your computer.

Reply 11 of 23, by beastlike

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Here's what I do for all the machines I've upgraded so far:

1. Go to start / type privacy settings, turn everything off on all the screens (even though spybot anti-beacon takes care of all this stuff)

2. Install Spybot Anti-Beacon, let it remove everything, and let it run on startup session to eliminate further spying/useless stuff. After researching it and its alternatives, it's the program I feel most comfortable with to do this job. Although Malik, I really like the powershell approach too.

3. Disable Cortana - typically just kill the process and use a "who lock me" or "unlocker" or whatever on the folder "C:\Windows\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy" and rename it

4. Install Classic Shell. Disabling Cortana comes with one major problem - no typing on the start bar. I hate that Microsoft couples this critical feature with a spying, internet-connected background service, but that's what they've decided to do, so this is my preferred alternative since it's free and works decently.

5. Install the hosts file from http://winhelp2002.mvps.org/hosts.htm - this can get annoying sometimes when there's links like "Google shopping results" that stop working, but I feel this fundamentally prevents a lot of problems. I'm willing to deal with the side effects.

6. Put together and download a Ninite (https://ninite.com) with VLC, FileZilla, NotePad++, Paint.NET, 7-Zip, XnView, and/or whatever else you want. Just speeds up the process of installing your favorite popular software that much more.

7. Back up my install with AOMEI Backupper, EASUS TODO, or CloneZilla. That way if anything gets screwed up in the future, I can always revert back.

Reply 12 of 23, by clueless1

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Jorpho wrote:

This is probably covered somehow in the lengthy list of advice above, and for all I know Microsoft might have changed it already, but perhaps it bears repeating:

Never tell Windows 10 you want to sign up for any kind of online Microsoft profile, because apparently once you do that, there's no way to go back to just using an ordinary, local, offline Windows account on your computer.

This one is not true. I've reverted a Win10 PC from Microsoft account sign-in to local account sign-in no problem.

The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks

Reply 13 of 23, by beastlike

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Yeah I had a Windows tablet that kept converting back to stupid Microsoft account whenever I'd install a particular app from the App Store. It's possible to revert back. I'm just done with their stupid app store and all the stupid sign-in crap that comes along with it. I remove the icon to the store on all my desktops and laptops, there's not one app on there that I like or need enough to justify using that app store.

That said, I wish there were better drawing apps for Windows tablets. I have a tablet with a sweet Wacom digitizer, and I really feel like there's NOTHING out there that's as good as Autodesk Sketchbook for Android, including the Autodesk Sketchbook for Windows App Store (the app I kept installing), or the Autodesk app for Windows Desktop (doesn't ignore finger touches vs pen touches)

Reply 14 of 23, by Jorpho

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clueless1 wrote:

This one is not true. I've reverted a Win10 PC from Microsoft account sign-in to local account sign-in no problem.

Well, that's good to know. Is there any particular trick to it?

Reply 15 of 23, by beastlike

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Jorpho wrote:
clueless1 wrote:

This one is not true. I've reverted a Win10 PC from Microsoft account sign-in to local account sign-in no problem.

Well, that's good to know. Is there any particular trick to it?

http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/switch … nt-windows-8-1/

Last edited by beastlike on 2016-12-14, 19:21. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 16 of 23, by clueless1

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beastlike wrote:

5. Install the hosts file from http://winhelp2002.mvps.org/hosts.htm - this can get annoying sometimes when there's links like "Google shopping results" that stop working, but I feel this fundamentally prevents a lot of problems. I'm willing to deal with the side effects.

I use MVPS too. Love it. There are a couple of more ways I've used this HOSTS file:
1. it's built into the UBlock Origin browser extension (available on Chrome, Safari, Edge and Firefox). Best ad blocking extension IMO. What makes using this over putting it in your HOSTS better is when something is blocked that was unexpected, ublock origin tells you the exact rule that was activated. This way you can go in and comment out the false positive url. Granted, this has only happened a couple of times in many years (MVPS is very good about not having false positives), but it's a nice option for troubleshooting.
2. If you have a linux-based router/firewall, you can often put MVPS into the router's /etc/hosts file and have the blocking done at the gateway. All machines on the network are protected in one shot. 😀

beastlike wrote:

7. Back up my install with AOMEI Backupper, EASUS TODO, or CloneZilla. That way if anything gets screwed up in the future, I can always revert back.

Macrium Reflect is another good backup imaging solution. Works from within the OS, so no need to boot from a livecd (like clonezilla) unless you have catastrophic failure that keeps you from booting. In that case, you can use the Macrium Reflect emergency disk that you create when you set it up.

Great stuff, guys. Thanks.

Last edited by clueless1 on 2016-12-14, 19:28. Edited 1 time in total.

The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks

Reply 17 of 23, by beastlike

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clueless1 wrote:

1. it's built into the ublock origin browser extension (available on Chrome, Safari, Edge and Firefox). Best ad blocking extension IMO. What makes using this over putting it in your HOSTS better is when something is blocked that was unexpected, ublock origin tells you the exact rule that was activated. This way you can go in and comment out the false positive url.

That is a cool feature, I'll have to check that out . Setting it at the windows-level isn't without its side

clueless1 wrote:

2. If you have a linux-based router/firewall, you can often put MVPS into the router's /etc/hosts file and have the blocking done at the gateway. All machines on the network are protected in one shot. 😀

This is one of those things I keep telling myself I'm going to do but never get the time for 😀

clueless1 wrote:

Macrium Reflect is another good backup imaging solution. Works from within the OS, so no need to boot from a livecd (like clonezilla) unless you have catastrophic failure that keeps you from booting. In that case, you can use the Macrium Reflect emergency disk that you create when you set it up.

I'll def have to check that out. Does that give you the option to make a bootable recovery disc for the system?

Thanks!

Reply 18 of 23, by clueless1

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@beastlike: yes! Uses Windows PE for recovery disk.
http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx

Regarding UBlock Origin vs HOSTS file, the advantage to having it in your HOSTS file is that ads get blocked in web-based apps too. Like Skype.

What I do personally is have MVPS in my firewall, and if I ever have a false positive issue, I turn on UBlock Origin, visit the page in question, then see the rule that was activated. Now I can go into the firewall and comment that url.

The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
OPL3 FM vs. Roland MT-32 vs. General MIDI DOS Game Comparison
Let's benchmark our systems with cache disabled
DOS PCI Graphics Card Benchmarks

Reply 19 of 23, by beastlike

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Malik wrote:
Yep, I've repartitioned my SSDs to contain the OSs (I have both Win10 and Win7) in 60GB partitions and redirect everything else […]
Show full quote

Yep, I've repartitioned my SSDs to contain the OSs (I have both Win10 and Win7) in 60GB partitions and redirect everything else to the much more economical and HUGE space HDD. All my media files and program files are directed there, except the bare minimum for Windows.

The first thing I do, is uninstall all the bloatwares :

In Windows Powershell : […]
Show full quote

In Windows Powershell :

Get-AppxPackage *3dbuilder* | Remove-AppxPackage - 3dbuilder

Get-AppxPackage *windowscommunicationsapps* | Remove-AppxPackage - calender & mail

Get-AppxPackage *officehub* | Remove-AppxPackage - get office

Get-AppxPackage *skypeapp* | Remove-AppxPackage - skype

Get-AppxPackage *zunemusic* | Remove-AppxPackage - Zune music

Get-AppxPackage *windowsmaps* | Remove-AppxPackage - maps

Get-AppxPackage *solitairecollection* | Remove-AppxPackage - solitaire collection

Get-AppxPackage *bingfinance* | Remove-AppxPackage - money

Get-AppxPackage *zunevideo* | Remove-AppxPackage - movies & tv

Get-AppxPackage *bingnews* | Remove-AppxPackage - news

Get-AppxPackage *onenote* | Remove-AppxPackage - onenote

Get-AppxPackage *people* | Remove-AppxPackage - people

Get-AppxPackage *windowsphone* | Remove-AppxPackage - phone companion

Get-AppxPackage *photos* | Remove-AppxPackage - photos

Get-AppxPackage *windowsstore* | Remove-AppxPackage -store

Get-AppxPackage *bingsports* | Remove-AppxPackage - sports

Get-AppxPackage *soundrecorder* | Remove-AppxPackage - voice recorder

Get-AppxPackage *bingweather* | Remove-AppxPackage - weather

Get-AppxPackage *xboxapp* | Remove-AppxPackage - xbox

I don't use any of these, so I uninstall them.

Also, I uninstall OneDrive :

Disable OneDrive Everywhere in Windows and Apps Completely […]
Show full quote

Disable OneDrive Everywhere in Windows and Apps Completely

Type GPedit.msc and hit Enter or OK to open Local Group Policy Editor.
Navigate to Local Computer Policy -> Computer Configuration -> Administrative Templates -> Windows Components -> OneDrive.
In the right pane, double click on policy named Prevent the usage of OneDrive for file storage.
Select the Enabled radio button.

taskkill /f /im OneDrive.exe
%SystemRoot%\System32\OneDriveSetup.exe /uninstall (32-bit)
%SystemRoot%\SysWOW64\OneDriveSetup.exe /uninstall (64-bit)

rd "%UserProfile%\OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "%LocalAppData%\Microsoft\OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "%ProgramData%\Microsoft OneDrive" /Q /S
rd "C:\OneDriveTemp" /Q /S

REG Delete "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\{018D5C66-4533-4307-9B53-224DE2ED1FE6}" /f
REG Delete "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Wow6432Node\CLSID\{018D5C66-4533-4307-9B53-224DE2ED1FE6}" /f

Malik, I like this - I have removed your comments so viewers can just paste this right into an elevated powershell:

Get-AppxPackage *3dbuilder* | Remove-AppxPackage Get-AppxPackage *windowscommunicationsapps* | Remove-AppxPackage Get-AppxPacka […]
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Get-AppxPackage *3dbuilder* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *windowscommunicationsapps* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *officehub* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *skypeapp* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *zunemusic* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *windowsmaps* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *solitairecollection* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *bingfinance* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *zunevideo* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *bingnews* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *onenote* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *people* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *windowsphone* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *photos* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *windowsstore* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *bingsports* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *soundrecorder* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *bingweather* | Remove-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage *xboxapp* | Remove-AppxPackage