AC mains power in Europe is at 50 Hz, so you need a transformer that can handle 50 Hz. The transformer you show in your question thus perfectly fits the European mains power, and is able to provide 110V at 50Hz. Your japanese console can take 100V at either 50 or 60 Hz, so it should work with the output of the transformer. A device meant for 100V usually won't break at 110V. But if your country provides 230V nominal (the standard unified european voltage), it may go as high as 230V+10%, i.e. around 250V. With 250V at the input, you will get nearly 120V at the output, which might be too high for the Saturn and kill it. A transformer specified for 100V instead of 110V output would be a better solution.

The video refresh frequency (50Hz for "PAL-like" timing and 60Hz for "NTSC-like" timing) is independent from mains frequency on IT equipment like computers and video game systems.

mkarcher wrote on 2022-04-19, 21:30:

AC mains power in Europe is at 50 Hz, so you need a transformer that can handle 50 Hz. The transformer you show in your question thus perfectly fits the European mains power, and is able to provide 110V at 50Hz. Your japanese console can take 100V at either 50 or 60 Hz, so it should work with the output of the transformer. A device meant for 100V usually won't break at 110V. But if your country provides 230V nominal (the standard unified european voltage), it may go as high as 230V+10%, i.e. around 250V. With 250V at the input, you will get nearly 120V at the output, which might be too high for the Saturn and kill it. A transformer specified for 100V instead of 110V output would be a better solution.

The video refresh frequency (50Hz for "PAL-like" timing and 60Hz for "NTSC-like" timing) is independent from mains frequency on IT equipment like computers and video game systems.

Thank you for the detailed answer, right to the point. It sure is more difficult to find a 100v specific converter but I will give it a go, much appreciated

There is also the option of replacing the stock internal PSU with an aftermarket one like this https://stoneagegamer.com/resaturn-psu-power- … n-va1-va15.html (not an endorsement, just an example).

darry wrote on 2022-04-20, 00:38:

There is also the option of replacing the stock internal PSU with an aftermarket one like this https://stoneagegamer.com/resaturn-psu-power- … n-va1-va15.html (not an endorsement, just an example).

Good to know for the future, seems clean as an option too. I saw that some people even get defective Saturn consoles with working PSUs from their region to swap internally for the Japanese ones, but I would prefer to keep the console as stock as possible. It's my first and probably only time dealing with an imported console, so not being exactly a collector a small transformer should suffice, discrete enough for the job. Unless one day I get the privilege of having a Sharp x68000!

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops.
If it does, chances are good that the step-down converter creates a clean sine or near-sine signal.

Because, in the past, this was a stumbling stone.
Cheap converters had no transformer, but merely resistors/caps.
Such converters were not compatible with switching-psu's used in computers or laptops.
These cheap converters did produce a "dirty signal", kind of a square wave.
Anyway, these times are long gone, I assume.
I just felt the need to mention this..

Jo22 wrote on 2022-04-20, 12:52:

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops. If it does, chances are good that the […]
Show full quote

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops.
If it does, chances are good that the step-down converter creates a clean sine or near-sine signal.

Because, in the past, this was a stumbling stone.
Cheap converters had no transformer, but merely resistors/caps.
Such converters were not compatible with switching-psu's used in computers or laptops.
These cheap converters did produce a "dirty signal", kind of a square wave.
Anyway, these times are long gone, I assume.
I just felt the need to mention this..

Glad you did, I'll make sure to check it before buying and to test it with a laptop first. Funny enough I have a North American laptop with an adapter on its charger connector to fit in Europe, guess I'll remove the adapter and test the charger with the step-down converter. The connector must be the same as the Japanese one I think.

Anyway, if anyone knows of a cheap and reliable transformer for sale in Europe that fits the task at hand feel free to suggest, as I'm kind of undecided and admittedly a little hesitant

Jo22 wrote on 2022-04-20, 12:52:

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops. If it does, chances are good that the […]
Show full quote

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops.
If it does, chances are good that the step-down converter creates a clean sine or near-sine signal.

Because, in the past, this was a stumbling stone.
Cheap converters had no transformer, but merely resistors/caps.
Such converters were not compatible with switching-psu's used in computers or laptops.
These cheap converters did produce a "dirty signal", kind of a square wave.
Anyway, these times are long gone, I assume.
I just felt the need to mention this..

I ended up getting the converter shown in the first post, it's heavy as a brick so I assume it has a transformer plus all the other stuff inside

For mains power, eastern Japan uses European 50Hz while western Japan uses American 60Hz as in the earliest days of introducing electricity to Japan there was no government intervention and two private companies, one in Tokyo and one in Osaka, imported AC generators from Germany and USA, respectively, creating two frequency systems in one country. Therefore all modern Japanese electronic devices accept both 50Hz and 60Hz.

The entire nation of Japan uses 60Hz NTSC video refresh rate and has nothing to do with AC frequencies.

Living on an island with cultures heavily influenced by Japan, I personally know many people have bought domestic-exclusive electronics from Japan with 100V requirement. Japan-specific (100V) step-down transformers are very common; a 2000W model (for high output kitchen appliances e.g. superheated steam oven) usually costs about 40-50€; 500W models (still overkill for a Saturn) typically cost 20-25€.

andre_6 wrote on 2022-04-28, 14:35:

I ended up getting the converter shown in the first post, it's heavy as a brick so I assume it has a transformer plus all the other stuff inside

I strongly suggest buying a dedicated 100V model; it should be constructed with a steel casing (like the photo below) instead of a plastic shell:

dormcat wrote on 2022-04-28, 19:08:

For mains power, eastern Japan uses European 50Hz while western Japan uses American 60Hz as in the earliest days of introducing […]
Show full quote

For mains power, eastern Japan uses European 50Hz while western Japan uses American 60Hz as in the earliest days of introducing electricity to Japan there was no government intervention and two private companies, one in Tokyo and one in Osaka, imported AC generators from Germany and USA, respectively, creating two frequency systems in one country. Therefore all modern Japanese electronic devices accept both 50Hz and 60Hz.

Power_Grid_of_Japan_as_of_2008.jpg

The entire nation of Japan uses 60Hz NTSC video refresh rate and has nothing to do with AC frequencies.

Living on an island with cultures heavily influenced by Japan, I personally know many people have bought domestic-exclusive electronics from Japan with 100V requirement. Japan-specific (100V) step-down transformers are very common; a 2000W model (for high output kitchen appliances e.g. superheated steam oven) usually costs about 40-50€; 500W models (still overkill for a Saturn) typically cost 20-25€.

andre_6 wrote on 2022-04-28, 14:35:

I ended up getting the converter shown in the first post, it's heavy as a brick so I assume it has a transformer plus all the other stuff inside

I strongly suggest buying a dedicated 100V model; it should be constructed with a steel casing (like the photo below) instead of a plastic shell:

4477.jpg

Awesome information thank you, I will get one soon. For early testing the one I have has performed well, but I won't start regular usage without a 100v steel one like you suggested. In my country I only found 110v output ones but I'll just import one and call it a day. Will the one I have with the plastic shell at 110v output be useful for appliances with less than 100v for example to have some margin, or is the plastic shell in itself a no go for daily usage anyway?

andre_6 wrote on 2022-04-29, 18:26:

Awesome information thank you, I will get one soon. For early testing the one I have has performed well, but I won't start regular usage without a 100v steel one like you suggested. In my country I only found 110v output ones but I'll just import one and call it a day. Will the one I have with the plastic shell at 110v output be useful for appliances with less than 100v for example to have some margin, or is the plastic shell in itself a no go for daily usage anyway?

Seeing "30 VA (45 VA max 60 min)" printed on its sticker I'd say leave it to low-power devices with 110-120V default voltages.

andre_6 wrote on 2022-04-28, 14:35:

Jo22 wrote on 2022-04-20, 12:52:

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops. If it does, chances are good that the […]
Show full quote

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops.
If it does, chances are good that the step-down converter creates a clean sine or near-sine signal.

Because, in the past, this was a stumbling stone.
Cheap converters had no transformer, but merely resistors/caps.
Such converters were not compatible with switching-psu's used in computers or laptops.
These cheap converters did produce a "dirty signal", kind of a square wave.
Anyway, these times are long gone, I assume.
I just felt the need to mention this..

I ended up getting the converter shown in the first post, it's heavy as a brick so I assume it has a transformer plus all the other stuff inside

Dear Andre,

Are you still using the step down convertor you shown in this topic? and if yes, is it working good?
i am also looking for a step down convertor for a jap Saturn.

Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,

Ronald

DaShad0w wrote on 2022-12-09, 10:34:

Dear Andre, […]
Show full quote

andre_6 wrote on 2022-04-28, 14:35:

Jo22 wrote on 2022-04-20, 12:52:

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops. If it does, chances are good that the […]
Show full quote

Just to be sure, please check if the step-down converter does support computer's/laptops.
If it does, chances are good that the step-down converter creates a clean sine or near-sine signal.

Because, in the past, this was a stumbling stone.
Cheap converters had no transformer, but merely resistors/caps.
Such converters were not compatible with switching-psu's used in computers or laptops.
These cheap converters did produce a "dirty signal", kind of a square wave.
Anyway, these times are long gone, I assume.
I just felt the need to mention this..

I ended up getting the converter shown in the first post, it's heavy as a brick so I assume it has a transformer plus all the other stuff inside

Dear Andre,

Are you still using the step down convertor you shown in this topic? and if yes, is it working good?
i am also looking for a step down convertor for a jap Saturn.

Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,

Ronald

Hello Ronald, sorry for the late reply, I don't login as a user here that often so your quote passed me by. Hope you can read this in time for your endeavours.

Yes I am still using the step down converter shown in my first post. The reason why I decided to keep it specifically for my Jap Saturn is because if you open the Jap Saturn itself, you will see that the power supply indicates on its PCB (or something along those lines) that the supported voltage value is actually more than what is stated in its outside shell in the back, and those are the values you have to truly consider. I should have taken a photo of that but I totally forgot at the time. I don't want to mistake you regarding the values, but I'm pretty sure it stated in the PCB that it actually supports up to 120 volts instead of 100v. I remember that when I saw it I was totally relieved.

With the Sega Jap Saturn Model 2 then handling up to 120v and with this specific step down transformer everything runs totally ok, no sound or image interference on my CRT TV, I am very happy with it. But naturally for serious collectors I can't recommend the transformer for other Japanese consoles, I imagine it would also be ok at 100v as explained in this thread, but one would be wise to read and be aware of the knowledgeable advice that I got from everyone above.

Finally, do check your Saturn's PSU PCB inside as Sega made multiple revisions of its Model 1 and 2, especially in Japan, just to be on the safe side - especially if you have an Hitachi, Victor or Samsung made variant. When entering Saturn's period Sega was already losing lots of money and they started tinkering with and mixing off the shelf parts for cost cutting measures. The Dreamcast was almost completely made that way.

Hope this helps, happy holidays and an excellent 2023 for you and yours. Playing some Christmas (or Winter) Nights really puts you in the season's mood!