Actually, your can use any AC/DC adapter that outputs the correct voltage and is equal or more of the amps stated on the MT-32 (it will only draw what it requires).
HOWEVER, take note of the polarity of the DC plug (negative centre, positive on the outside).

jesolo wrote:

Actually, your can use any AC/DC adapter that outputs the correct voltage and is equal or more of the amps stated on the MT-32 (it will only draw what it requires).
HOWEVER, take note of the polarity of the DC plug (negative centre, positive on the outside).

Thank you for the info,
Will i be ok using a genesis power brick or NES?

NES power brick would most likely fry your MT-32 because it outputs AC instead of DC.
Genesis model 1 power supply seems like it might work. 10V 1.2A, negative centre and positive outside. Just one volt more than standard MT-32 power supply.

A genesis psu will be fine as long as it's in the specs Baoran mentions.
It is my opinion you will be better getting a new quality psu at 9v , 1A with center negative , genesis psus aren't exactly new nowdays or very well build to begin with as they were meant to power a gaming device not a professional music one. Personally although original psus are nice I keep them in the drawer and use quality replacement ones - emphasis on quality because the myriads of eBay ones are way worse than the old sega/nintendo ones 😀

keropi wrote:

emphasis on quality because the myriads of eBay ones are way worse than the old sega/nintendo ones 😀

I noticed that a while ago when I bought a power adapter for a notebook, from a european webshop. A metal USB stick started 'Biting' me, and I measured that the damned adapter put 110V AC current on the ground plane. Another one for a netbook did the same thing but at a lesser voltage. These things are worse then useless.

I've used a Genesis (called MegaDrive here) adapter with my MT-32 and it works fine. I've read that the 10V vs 9V issue isn't a big deal but I still plan on getting a newly made replacement one of these days - as mentioned the trouble is ensuring that it's a well built replacement. The last one I bought was light as a feather and so poorly put together that I tossed it without even plugging it in.

9v VS 10v is nothing to worry - the mt32 has an internal 7805 so both will get converted to 5v in the end... 10v will produce a little more heat as a byproduct but it's nothing to thing about.
Quality psus are indeed a problem because there are clones of them as wel... Just buy from a reputable shop that you think won't try to sell you bs as name products....

keropi wrote:

9v VS 10v is nothing to worry - the mt32 has an internal 7805 so both will get converted to 5v in the end... 10v will produce a little more heat as a byproduct but it's nothing to thing about.
Quality psus are indeed a problem because there are clones of them as wel... Just buy from a reputable shop that you think won't try to sell you bs as name products....

OK good to know thanks, but these are the sorts of things that can keep a man awake at night you know 🤣

Yes the clone of a clone is what I experienced - I had a decent one so searched for that exact one "oh that's a good price delivered from China" I thought to myself and BIN and fail 😵

You can still buy compatible adapters from Roland! The PSB-120 (120V AC In) is available from music shops here in Canada.

gerwin wrote:

keropi wrote:

emphasis on quality because the myriads of eBay ones are way worse than the old sega/nintendo ones 😀

I noticed that a while ago when I bought a power adapter for a notebook, from a european webshop. A metal USB stick started 'Biting' me, and I measured that the damned adapter put 110V AC current on the ground plane. Another one for a netbook did the same thing but at a lesser voltage. These things are worse then useless.

You live in the NL, right? NL is pretty unique in that earthed/grounded power outlets only became mandatory near the turn of the millennium, so most houses still have ungrounded outlets everywhere outside of kitchen and bathroom. The behaviour you're describing sounds typical for what you get when an PSU that needs grounding is hooked up to an ungrounded outlet: 1/2 of mains voltage . Could it be that the adapters you are referring to require grounding (3-pin Mickey mouse or full kettle plug connector), but are being connected to typical Dutch ungrounded outlets? If so, this is expected behaviour and the adapters themselves are not to blame.

Of course, if the adapters claim to be double-insulated they shouldn't need grounding and this is plain defective, but given it's NL I might just be prepared to give those adapters the benefit of the doubt for now...

That's Right. I did not know these ungrounded sockets are typically Dutch. I have put in substantial effort to ground different sockets, which were likely to be connected to a computer. In this particular example the socket was grounded by me earlier. The bad adapter had a 3-wire grounded power cable as well. Regardless of that these adapters were misbehaving.
Afterwards I obtained two genuine Asus branded power adapters, and they did not have ground plane voltage issues.

(Was ik tegen jou aan het bieden bij die twee PAS16 kaarten? Ik vermoed van wel)

Then they truly are crappy (and dangerous...) adapters.
(en nee, ik had net de dag - letterlijk - voordat ze op MP verschenen een PAS16 op eBay besteld)

Can someone recommend a good generic power supply from Ebay?

I just bought one locally that looks OK (motivated by this thread!). I just searched for PSB-120 and chose one that looked to be from a decent seller.

This is where I picked up my last PSB-120 I got for a spare MT-200. Never had a bad experience with Reverb. But I think my local guitar center also sells these for about the same price, but they don't keep them in stock so I would have to wait a few days all the same for shipping. But I know this supply works as I use these on both my MT-200 and my MT-32 without issue. They are switching supplies to so better and more modern power supply solution overall.

https://reverb.com/p/roland-psb-120-9v-ac-adapter

If you get one of those really heavy ones (like the originals) then they will have an isolation transformer in them and they are pretty robust. If they fail they tend to either cut power completely or put too much ripple on the line which is not too much of an issue as Roland usually include filtering caps in the device itself. The real risk is in the switching supplies (the really lightweight ones) as when those fail they can put large voltages out which can damage the connected device. Getting a decent brand (and ensuring it's not a fake) is fine, but it's not always easy to be sure you're getting the genuine thing.

I recently bought a bunch of 12V -> 9V DC-DC converter boards and my idea is to convert the 12V from the PC PSU down to 9V for the Roland device (in my case an SC-55). I can then drill a hole in the PC case and install a 9V DC jack, so I can plug the SC-55's power cable into the back of the PC just like the MIDI cable and have it powered any time the PC is on. I probably could plug the PC's 12V straight into it (I think the 7805 can handle up to 17V in) but more volts = more heat so I figure if I drop it down to 9V or even a little under (I think 7V is the minimum) then it'll run cooler internally which will hopefully extend its life.

CrossBow777 wrote:

This is where I picked up my last PSB-120 I got for a spare MT-200. Never had a bad experience with Reverb. But I think my local guitar center also sells these for about the same price, but they don't keep them in stock so I would have to wait a few days all the same for shipping. But I know this supply works as I use these on both my MT-200 and my MT-32 without issue. They are switching supplies to so better and more modern power supply solution overall.

https://reverb.com/p/roland-psb-120-9v-ac-adapter

Crossbow thanks for the info!

I am about to receive my MT-32 but i need your help asap because i need to place an order on ebay . Could you please tell me what i would need to get dos box working within windows ?

So far i only have the UM-one mk2 and i have the older revision of the roland without the headphone jack , so i have 2 mono 1/8inch . I do not understand how o r what cables i need to hook up to my 1/4 headphone jack using my on board sound.

Can you or someone help me find these cables on ebay as well as tell me what i would need to hook up the MT-32 to a real DOS computer using a sound blaster AWE 64 GOLD or Sound blaster pro 2.0?

In order for my 2.1 sound system on my computer to output sound i need to plug in a standard headphone jack . So i am assuming i need some sort of adapter or adapters with 1/8th inch from the mt-32 to 1/4?
Please help guys
thanks!

You probably need something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-MIDI-To-Joyst … ot/332732993368 to connect your awe64 to mt-32 when using real dos computer.

So far i only have the UM-one mk2 and i have the older revision of the roland without the headphone jack , so i have 2 mono 1/8i […]
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So far i only have the UM-one mk2 and i have the older revision of the roland without the headphone jack , so i have 2 mono 1/8inch . I do not understand how o r what cables i need to hook up to my 1/4 headphone jack using my on board sound.

Can you or someone help me find these cables on ebay as well as tell me what i would need to hook up the MT-32 to a real DOS computer using a sound blaster AWE 64 GOLD or Sound blaster pro 2.0?

In order for my 2.1 sound system on my computer to output sound i need to plug in a standard headphone jack . So i am assuming i need some sort of adapter or adapters with 1/8th inch from the mt-32 to 1/4?
Please help guys
thanks!

The cable listed above should be good to connect the MT-32 to your SB card.

These are the cables I actually purchased locally from my guitar center that I use from the MT-32 into my sound card's line in jack:

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Hosa/CMP-159-Ste … 4-Mono-Males.gc

I actually have both my MT-200 and the MT-32 connected up. I use a simple AV switch box and just have the audio inputs from each of the modules going into the switchbox and then the RCA to 1/8 inch headphone cable from it to the sound card. This way both modules are powered up and I can switch between them easily with the push of a button. So you actually have your sizes mixed up. The MT-32 has 1/4 left/right output jacks on it and your PC uses a 1/8 headphone like jack.

T