igna78 wrote on 2021-04-11, 09:03:
The super socket7 cards (because these were with agp slots and not the socket7 systems which only had pci slots), were compliant […]
The super socket7 cards (because these were with agp slots and not the socket7 systems which only had pci slots), were compliant with the agp 1.0 standard with 3.3V supply voltage
However, it is true that despite having the right power supply voltage, often (for productive saving choices) they did not guarantee adequate power (read watts) therefore cards that required more power were poorly powered with all the resulting problems.
The system specification slot1 cards are all AGP 1.0 with 3.3V supply voltage
In these cards, especially if Asus or Abit and if the chipset is Intel and if not damaged by time or badly used, there is always an adequate power supply.
In the cheap cards or with the Via, Sis chipset, sometimes despite having 3.3V of voltage, the power is lacking - watts - so the most demanding cards could have operating problems, with the exception of those, such as power supply via molex which absorb the most part of the power needed by the molex.
The distinction between 3.3V/1.5V/0.8V AGP slots refers to voltage levels of the logic signals. It is not power supply voltage. If the card drives the wrong logic levels it might damage the motherboard, putting the board into an undefined state and then who knows what happens to the card.
Even the latest AGP slots still had 3.3V, 5V, and 12V power supply pins. Anything less than that has to be generated on the card.
The problem with inadequate onboard 3.3V power supplies in many early AGP motherboards is a separate issue from the signal voltage levels. The Asus P2L97 was one of the boards with that problem, so they weren't above committing that error and I don't expect ABit was above it either. The OPs motherboard is too late to be worried about that though.
I don't have a Voodoo5, but if I did, my approach (with *any* motherboard) would be to first do everything you can to verify that the motherboard supports 3.3V signaling, and *then* try out a burner card as has been suggested.
While using the burner card, use whatever diagnostic tools and knowledge you have to convince yourself that it's working correctly. Voltmeter, oscilloscope, whatever you got. Check PCI/AGP clock frequencies and even power supply ripple if you can. If convenient, run an extended stress test on the burner card and repeat your voltage checks, make sure nothing is dying. It's up to you to decide how thorough you want to be, but the premise here is that you're about to trust the system with something almost as valuable as your firstborn.
Using burner components is a good idea when dealing with old hardware. For all you know there could be some unknown fault with the board or the PSU that will kill any video card you plug into it. You'd rather find that out with cheap parts instead of something expensive.