Light pen, most likely. Everything else would require more than two simple LS chips.

8 resistors, a flip-flop and a nand buffer? wow, i'm... underwhelmed. I mean it would be easy to recreate that card now, but I'm all kinds of curious as to what it does. Do you mind if I post your images over on http://www.vcfed.org? The community there is a bit more tailored to this era of hardware.

Also, thank you for taking the time to take those pics!

Bought some more PCI cards and acquired my last Riva128 with this batch (for now?).

Every 486 board is now equipped with one aforementioned "powerhouse" which is, hands down, my favorite regarding looks and performance.

I'm pretty happy to say that there isn't a must have card for me to purchase left... may sound somewhat laughable with the "size" of my collection taken into account but I'm pretty happy with what I have.

The only downside is that the Rivas do not work in older 486/586 boards and so I have the Matrox MilleniumII running in the P66. I was pretty "ecstatic" when I benched DoomShareware timedemo3... as the Matrox is even faster than the VirgeDX by 8 tics[1] which resulted in 1514 realtics for 2134 gametics... nearly 50fps... close but no cigar though.

[1] this is only possible because this Demo's "scenery" is not that heavy on the cpu and so the vga core can still marginally influence the result.

I gave in and bought another Toshiba T3200SX. Will I regret it? I think not...
Last model with plasma, as in fastest model with plasma.

Just bought a lot of 90 ISA/PCI/AGP cards. 😲

Intergraph ConcertMaster keyboard
Logitech Trackman Marble
Sound Blaster CT2940 w/OPL3 chip
3x Diamond V330
S3 Virge GX/2
Some sata controller card
2x256 meg pc100

Hi,

I bought this graphics card, NVIDIA 7950GT AGP version.

I think that this graphics card are one of the last sold for AGP bus.
It works very well in my Pentium 4 and there are a lot of difference with the previous installed card, a NVIDIA GeForce 6200.

Doom 3, Quake 4 and Painkiller waits me!!! 😈

Cyrix200+ wrote:

Predator99 wrote:

<snip>

..but this will be difficult 🙁

The attachment IMG_9942.JPG is no longer available

Ugh, I have fixed Voodoo 2's like that, but this one is in pretty bad shape. I have successfully used a hobby knife like this: https://www.afbreekmespunt.nl/894-home/stanle … ekmesje-9mm.jpg to seperate the legs. But it looks like one or more might have been seperated from the PCB in yours?

Good idea, thanks!

Yes the outer one seemed to be separated. Looks very fragile at the moment. Not sure if this Pin is connected at all, but it seems to go to that hole to the bottom side...

Dont know if I get this fixed again...then there are those missing parts on some bottom side.

luckybob wrote:

8 resistors, a flip-flop and a nand buffer? wow, i'm... underwhelmed. I mean it would be easy to recreate that card now, but I'm all kinds of curious as to what it does. Do you mind if I post your images over on http://www.vcfed.org? The community there is a bit more tailored to this era of hardware.

Also, thank you for taking the time to take those pics!

feel free. there is already a thread there http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthread.php?287 … -Connector-Card but unfortunately all the pics are hosted on photobucket.

from what i gather it's to control some screen overlay stuff.

furan wrote:

https://i.imgur.com/Vg5CTLL.jpg […]
Show full quote

I've seen that keyboard featured in Maxxarcade's YouTube Video.

derSammler wrote:

Just bought a lot of 90 ISA/PCI/AGP cards. 😲

Pictures, or it didn't happen 😀

Anaxagoras wrote:

Hi, […]
Show full quote

Hi,

I bought this graphics card, NVIDIA 7950GT AGP version.
I think that this graphics card are one of the last sold for AGP bus.
It works very well in my Pentium 4 and there are a lot of difference with the previous installed card, a NVIDIA GeForce 6200.

Doom 3, Quake 4 and Painkiller waits me!!! 😈

That's the raddest, most tubular card I've ever seen! 🤣

Assuming the leg doesn't bust off when twisted back into place, that's a doable repair for a skilled tech. I recently just repaired an Ensoniq SoundScape OPUS with the same exact damage.

Predator99 wrote:

Good idea, thanks! […]
Show full quote

Cyrix200+ wrote:

Predator99 wrote:

<snip>

..but this will be difficult 🙁

IMG_9942.JPG

Ugh, I have fixed Voodoo 2's like that, but this one is in pretty bad shape. I have successfully used a hobby knife like this: https://www.afbreekmespunt.nl/894-home/stanle … ekmesje-9mm.jpg to seperate the legs. But it looks like one or more might have been seperated from the PCB in yours?

Good idea, thanks!

Yes the outer one seemed to be separated. Looks very fragile at the moment. Not sure if this Pin is connected at all, but it seems to go to that hole to the bottom side...

Dont know if I get this fixed again...then there are those missing parts on some bottom side.

FesterBlatz wrote:

Assuming the leg doesn't bust off when twisted back into place, that's a doable repair for a skilled tech. I recently just repaired an Ensoniq SoundScape OPUS with the same exact damage.

I would trim the leg a little bit, but leave it as is. Then solder a small wire-wrap wire to the trace, with the other end soldered to the lead sticking out of the chip. I would not bend it back into place. This depends on your soldering skills, but this is fixable. If you bend it back and it breaks, you may end up having to dremel into that part of the chip to get access to more of the lead frame, and do the same.

What I mean for wire wrap wire (this sort of stuff is used as bodge repair wire all the time):
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1446

Good advice! Best to not tempt Murphy's law. I generally try to make my repairs look...well, invisible. But my German OCD is the reason for this. A functional repair is certainly more valuable than a failed attempt at a pretty one.

Care must also be taken not to lift that pad. Lots of flux and swift use of a fine curved tip of a QUALITY soldering iron are paramount.

Personally, if you're serious about fixing it I suggest having someone experienced with this type of work take a crack at it.

furan wrote:

I would trim the leg a little bit, but leave it as is. Then solder a small wire-wrap wire to the trace, with the other end soldered to the lead sticking out of the chip. I would not bend it back into place. This depends on your soldering skills, but this is fixable. If you bend it back and it breaks, you may end up having to dremel into that part of the chip to get access to more of the lead frame, and do the same.

What I mean for wire wrap wire (this sort of stuff is used as bodge repair wire all the time):
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1446

FesterBlatz wrote:

Good advice! Best to not tempt Murphy's law. I generally try to make my repairs look...well, invisible. But my German OCD is the reason for this. A functional repair is certainly more valuable than a failed attempt at a pretty one.

Care must also be taken not to lift that pad. Lots of flux and swift use of a fine curved tip of a QUALITY soldering iron are paramount.

Personally, if you're serious about fixing it I suggest having someone experienced with this type of work take a crack at it.

Note for the faint of heart for sure.

furan wrote:

https://i.imgur.com/Vg5CTLL.jpg Intergraph ConcertMaster keyboard Logitech Trackman Marble Sound Blaster CT2940 w/OPL3 chip 3x D […]
Show full quote

Intergraph ConcertMaster keyboard
Logitech Trackman Marble
Sound Blaster CT2940 w/OPL3 chip
3x Diamond V330
S3 Virge GX/2
Some sata controller card
2x256 meg pc100

That keyboard always makes me chuckle as it reminds me of Carmack and his 400" CRT.

amadeus777999 wrote:

That keyboard always makes me chuckle as it reminds me of Carmack and his 400" CRT.

That's why I picked it out - I asked him on Twitter and he said he really loved that keyboard, so I figured while building my "1998 dream system" I'd try it out. Color matches well with the Sun 21" monitor I'm using.

^^ Sweet, Carmack approved. Wonder if he still has his?

I'll post full photos of this purchase later, but for now I need a bit of help in understanding what I bought..

This socket comes populated with a 486 Overdrive CPU. My understanding is that it is a replacement Overdrive, so despite the socket being labelled as Overdrive Socket any PGA-168 486 CPUs (ie. a 486DX33 or a U5S SUPER-33) should work with this board? In theory even a DX2-66 5v would work on it except that mounting a heatsink is impossible due to no Socket 3 lugs? Am I missing anything?

Also, what is the difference between the 486 Overdrive DX2-66 and regular 486 DX2-66? Both are 5V..