Any socket 1 will work and use FPM as EDO usually not compatible. Chances should be good getting that machine to at least start and salvaged much worse systems than this. Try getting a few boards to start that were left out in the weather for a year and then you will know what some things can survive. Doesn't look half bad besides the rust in the case.

Any 33mhz dx or sx should work.

What can I do to handle the rust?

bristlehog wrote:

What can I do to handle the rust?

If there is pitting (and it looks like there is) the only truly effective ways are sand-blasting or by using chemicals.
I will assume you don't have a blast cabinet out back....
Problem is I dunno what is available to you over there in the way of chemicals.
.
Ospho is probably the best. It's been around since the 40's and it's original use was for boats. (Marine applications.)
http://www.ospho.com/
It is acid so you need to take common sense precautions but as formulated it's not a super strong acid like battery acid.
.
Then there are various more consumer oriented rust converters that are usually available at automotive supplies.
.
--- Rust converters work by further oxidizing the red oxide into black oxide. You want to remove any loose flaky stuff before you use it but not the red fixed rust.
--- Black oxide rust does not progress like red oxide. It forms a layer that oxygen can't get through.
--- Painting is optional after rust converters. Not needed but it does look a lot better.

And if you like messy and want to go redneck any Tabasco Sauce knock-off that you can get in bulk cheap should work.
This actually works very well due to the hot sauce's acid content. Not sure if it helps but I prefer the hottest hot sauce I can get cheaply for this.
I've used the stuff in the pic below with great success. It comes in big bottles and is fairly cheap. Dunno if it's available outside the US and Mexico though.
For this you will need one of those wire brushes that look like tooth brushes to work it around while you soak it.
Put it on thick and work it around now and then with the brush. An hour or two of soaking with intermittent scrubbing should do. (For steel.)
Once you've got all the rust off hose it off (or give it a shower) and then immediately douse it with 91% isopropyl to dry up any residual water.
Then, for this one, you will need to paint it if it's steel.
This is actually an old Navy trick to clean the blue-ish/green-ish crud off of copper and brass pipes but it works well on steel too, just takes longer.
.

^ 🤣 that McGiver Tabasco trick rocks!

Wouldn't vinegar work better?

We have McIlhenny Tabasco sauce here, yet I will keep the sauce for my cooking exercises. I'll get myself some rust dissolver in an automotive shop.

I occasionally noticed that this Netserver shares the same case with HP Vectra XU series:

saturn wrote:

Wouldn't vinegar work better?

Vinegar is not thick enough to stay put.
If you wanted to acquire enough to submerge the case in vinegar it might work okay.
.

bristlehog wrote:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-792JxSOaEkg/TvH-pDv4rtI/AAAAAAAAAsA/biU2rMLyoWE/IMG_20111221_153850_crop.jpg […]
Show full quote

WHY do some people insist on using magic marker on things?
A strip of tape to write on would cost them what?
.

PCBONEZ wrote:

A strip of tape to write on would cost them what?

Some [if not most] people just don't care. They screw equipment with magic markers because they can.

Also, in savage countries [like Russia from which that markered Vectra XU came] people often treat other people like crap. For instance, when I bought stainless steel saucepans made in Portugal in a local shop, I had to remove paper stickers. The Portugese one I removed with one motion and no traces, while the Russian one [that the importing organization put there] I had to tear away and it left ugly sticky glue traces that I had to rub away with acetone for a while. Difference of approach.

bristlehog wrote:

I'll get myself some rust dissolver in an automotive shop.

It's Rust "Converter". At least over here.....
Something called Rust Dissolver might be something else. I dunno. - You'll need the read the label to tell.
.
Misting with water actually helps the process a little. Just don't make any puddles.
Pour just enough for the job into something and dip your brush into that.
DO NOT put any you don't use back into the original container.
That will (or can) cause the entire container to convert and it won't work anymore.
.
As a test of this stuff I placed treated formerly completely rusted steel bars into salt water in a clear glass jar the sun for 3 months.
No new red rust showed up at all. The bars stayed black with no sign of new corrosion.
The 'control' was an untreated steel bar also in salt water and sun. That one rusted so much there was 3/4" of flaky rust crud in the bottom of the jar.
.

It's rust converter of course, I just used the wrong word. I bought some today and started cleaning. Lots of rust and some white substance covers the metal. I have to clean all this.

The white is likely the zinc from the failed galvanized plating.

I have an old server with internal fire damage. I'd like to know the story behind that....

2fort5r wrote:

I have an old server with internal fire damage. I'd like to know the story behind that....

Someone tried to kill it with fire?

I think accumulated dust in there caught fire at some point. Run a server 24/7 for several years and it'll collect a lot of dust.

Since the machine won't start (CPU and chassis coolers spin though), someone advised to fill all the four memory slots with same size SIMM memory straps. Could it be the case? I can't check operatively since I only got two SIMM straps.

Are the SIMMS you have 36-bit parity units? Many of those older server boards required parity memory modules. Being a 486 with a 32bit memory bus, it shouldn't require pairs or anything. Also make sure the CMOS battery/module is working. EISA boards can be weird about battery problems since the slot configuration is usually battery backed as well.

The service manual for this machine is HP P/N 5967-1566:

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!searc … Es/GOz6x6V-rZMJ

NJRoadfan wrote:

Are the SIMMS you have 36-bit parity units? Many of those older server boards required parity memory modules. Being a 486 with a 32bit memory bus, it shouldn't require pairs or anything. Also make sure the CMOS battery/module is working. EISA boards can be weird about battery problems since the slot configuration is usually battery backed as well.

I don't know what SIMMs I have. How do I find it out?

I found memory requirements for this server.

It has an ionistor instead of CMOS battery:

How do I find out is it working or not?

Errius wrote:

The service manual for this machine is HP P/N 5967-1566:

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!searc … Es/GOz6x6V-rZMJ

Thanks, but it seems that this manual is not available anymore.