VOGONS


First post, by kegepet

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I'd like to use one of my systems as a midi sound module of sorts using munt, or similar, to connect to my dos machine. Both systems have an mpu401 midi/gameport, and i was just wondering if I could just create a db15 crossover cable to avoid having to buy two of those gameport to din5 midi breakout cables. I was thinking I would just cross the midi-in on one with the midi-out on the other, and vice versa, leaving all other pins (including those for power) open. Would this work? Thanks.

Reply 1 of 6, by Kamerat

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Yes, I've done it myself. But if you care very much for your sound cards it's advisable to have a galvanic isolation between the output and input, just like how proper MIDI signalling is done.

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Reply 2 of 6, by HanJammer

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What kegepet said.

Also if you have USB in the PC running munt you can use USB midi interface like this one https://www.roland.com/pl/products/um-one/
I personally use one like this and it works fine for me, but be aware that some of these cheap chinese interfaces won't pass SysEx messages though.

Check out my YouTube channel the "Rusty Bits"

Reply 3 of 6, by kegepet

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Kamerat, thanks. How would I go about adding galvanic isolation? Do most professionally made cables do this?

HanJammer, how does that EP instruments midi interface compare to the cheap ones on ebay? Does it pass the SysEx messages?

Reply 4 of 6, by JudgeMonroe

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kegepet wrote:

Kamerat, thanks. How would I go about adding galvanic isolation? Do most professionally made cables do this?

The MIDI IN on each side would use an opto-isolator. The MIDI OUT would use a hex inverter to buffer and amplify the line. All professionally made cables and devices do this, as it's part of the MIDI spec: https://www.midi.org/specifications/item/midi … l-specification

Reply 6 of 6, by SirNickity

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The cards should be doing this before the DB15 port. Breakout cables are just passive adapters, so DB15-to-DIN-to-DIN-to-DB15 shouldn't be any different, electrically, than DB15-to-DB15. The MIDI In channel on each side should be nothing but an LED (and current-limiting resistor) that is sensed by a photo-diode or photo-transistor. MIDI is a current-loop topology, which is why you see some crazy voltage on the Out pins instead of something like the +3.3 to 5V you would expect for TTL.