VOGONS


Reply 20 of 31, by bushwack

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I have one of these running my Barton Mobile chip, think i paid $22 with free shipping. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?It … N82E16817103149
Hehe, look for my review. Still running but the fan's a little louder now.

Here's a great tool for figuring out wattage. http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Reply 21 of 31, by ux-3

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I am not sure, power is your problem. These old second hand cpus have sometimes been overclocked and overvolted by too much and for too long. Does the die show cracks in the corner?

Retro PC warning: The things you own end up owning you.

Reply 22 of 31, by retro games 100

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I tried that calculator out a few days ago. It's very interesting. I vaguely remember in the dim and distant past buying the $2 "Pro" version, but I've no idea if or where my "purchase key" is. Anyway, using the "lite" version I put in a very basic configuration that had no HDD, no CD, and basic graphics. I tried a mobile barton 2200+. I get 96W result. Then I change the CPU for a t-bred 2400+, and get 122W. That's quite an increase. Then I set the capacitor aging to 30% Hehe, I reckon that's a conservative value on some of these KT133A "horror boards" I've been testing. The wattage result then jumps up to 158W!

Reply 23 of 31, by retro games 100

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ux-3 wrote:

I am not sure, power is your problem. These old second hand cpus have sometimes been overclocked and overvolted by too much and for too long. Does the die show cracks in the corner?

It's difficult to say - generally speaking, it looks in rather poor condition. You know the die has a kind of light pink colour? Well, near the bottom right hand corner (but not right on the edge), it appears that a few tiny flakes/specks of this pink colour are missing - as if it's been scuffed/chipped away. Perhaps it is fractionally damaged in some way?

Reply 24 of 31, by retro games 100

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Sorry the photo's not very good. Here are the 2 CPUs. The bottom one in rather shocking condition is actually the one that "works". Hehe!

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Reply 25 of 31, by 5u3

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😳

Now I see why CPU manufacturers hide their cores beneath metal plates on newer processors... I'm surprised this works at all!

Normally the silvery thermal paste is not really conductive, but on both CPUs it is in places where it doesn't belong. I'm afraid there is no easy way to get rid of it, but soaking the whole CPU in something might be worth a try.

Reply 27 of 31, by retro games 100

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h-a-l-9000 wrote:

Remembers me of this website 😁

http://www.dau-alarm.de/g_cpu4.html

🤣
Bushwack, I've copied-and-pasted one of the photos from the above website. Do you remember I described one of my "smoked" CPUs as having "black goo" in the corner of the die. It was a bit like this photo, although not nearly as bad!

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Reply 28 of 31, by Amigaz

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Have had some cpu's that were drenched in thermal compound like this.
I get the job done cleaning rhem with this (no rocket science)

41ZDRIzNu8L._SL500_AA280_.jpg

It easily disolves different variants of thermal compound

My retro computer stuff: https://lychee.jjserver.net/#16136303902327

Reply 29 of 31, by retro games 100

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5u3 wrote:

😳

Now I see why CPU manufacturers hide their cores beneath metal plates on newer processors... I'm surprised this works at all!

So am I. But I just retested it, inside a Kinetiz KT133A based board. Surprisingly, it works fine - at "top speed": 2000mhz / 133fsb.

Reply 30 of 31, by prophase_j

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retro games 100 wrote:

Ideally, I would like to buy a PSU from about 5 years ago, but which is "new old stock". An Antec or Enermax - one of the greats, with excellent 3.3 & 5 volt rails. I had a quick browse online at new and modern PSUs and found this one -

http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1710.html

It has 40A on both 3 and 5 rails, but it's incredibly expensive.

That's like bringing a gun to a knife fight. The kind of gun you find on attack helicopters:

101069.jpg

"Retro Rocket"
Athlon XP-M 2200+ // Epox 8KTA3
Radeon 9800xt // Voodoo2 SLI
Diamond MX300 // SB AWE64 Gold