masterdeejay wrote on 2022-04-06, 09:39:

Is this card a 3000 or 3500? Or bios modded?

neither ^^

it's an Evilking Voodoo 3 Pro/Extreme idk exactly what the differences are.

but yeah running at 183Mhz basically makes it equal to a 3500

That's 3500 alternative. Retail box had big orange sticker with 183 Mhz.

Thanks! I repair it and test it.

All broken off and damaged smd-s are replaced via professional service.
But it is worse now.
I dont get any screen on my older pc-s (P2, P3 systems). After a few seconds it is turning off. I tried different motherboards (440Lx P2 266, 440Bx P2 450, 815 P3 1,4), different power supply (Evga 600w, Fsp 350w) even different monitors, cables, positions, different agp clocks...
It is only working with pcie-pci-agp adapter (33mhz pci mode?) in a skylake system but it has the same artifacts. Strange but the screen is perfect on remote desktop (dwservice, Vnc).

I can use it in the new system but only in pci mode (only in win7 legacy setup but not in uefi mode), but i want to use it in my older system for benchmarking/overclocking (Abit ST6, 1,4ghz P3S...)

What can i do? Reflow? Reball? Why it is not working in a real agp motherboard? What part controls the agp clock or the bus on this card?

masterdeejay wrote on 2022-05-21, 11:53:

All broken off and damaged smd-s are replaced via professional service. But it is worse now. <...> What can i do? […]
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All broken off and damaged smd-s are replaced via professional service.
But it is worse now.
<...>
What can i do?

I'd return it to "professional service" to see if they can undo changes/fix whatever they broke.
No offence/didn't mean to be rude but it sounds like it.

The real question for me is what is that contraption you have the card hooked up via?

The card was faulty, rgb lines on boot and low resolution. But i tought is was because the missing smd caps, that is why send it to the proffesionals but they cant test it so there was no warranty to success. It is a 20+y old card so any part can faulty on it.

The adapters:
1x to 16x riser from a mining rig
Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress
Pci to agp adapter from ebay russian seller that works with all agp cards but only in slower pci mode
one molex per adaper for power so i use y splitters
And a fan for the adapters vrm.

masterdeejay wrote on 2022-05-22, 05:07:

The adapters: 1x to 16x riser from a mining rig Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress Pci to agp adapter from ebay russia […]
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The adapters:
1x to 16x riser from a mining rig
Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress
Pci to agp adapter from ebay russian seller that works with all agp cards but only in slower pci mode
one molex per adaper for power so i use y splitters
And a fan for the adapters vrm.

And you think the issue is with the card? Lol

appiah4 wrote on 2022-05-22, 17:38:

masterdeejay wrote on 2022-05-22, 05:07:

The adapters: 1x to 16x riser from a mining rig Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress Pci to agp adapter from ebay russia […]
Show full quote

The adapters:
1x to 16x riser from a mining rig
Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress
Pci to agp adapter from ebay russian seller that works with all agp cards but only in slower pci mode
one molex per adaper for power so i use y splitters
And a fan for the adapters vrm.

And you think the issue is with the card? Lol

as far as I've read, using the adapters is the only way he got the card to work.
You still think the problem is with the adapters? Then you should read the thread again.

appiah4 wrote on 2022-05-22, 17:38:

masterdeejay wrote on 2022-05-22, 05:07:

The adapters: 1x to 16x riser from a mining rig Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress Pci to agp adapter from ebay russia […]
Show full quote

The adapters:
1x to 16x riser from a mining rig
Pcie to pci standard adapter from aliexpress
Pci to agp adapter from ebay russian seller that works with all agp cards but only in slower pci mode
one molex per adaper for power so i use y splitters
And a fan for the adapters vrm.

And you think the issue is with the card? Lol

It is only works with the adapters in a h110 skylake. No display on native agp motherboards. (Abit st6, chaintech 6ltm, compaq s370/slot 440bx)
Before the smd replace its worked with rgb vertical lines on screen.

masterdeejay wrote on 2022-05-21, 11:53:

All broken off and damaged smd-s are replaced via professional service. But it is worse now. I dont get any screen on my older […]
Show full quote

All broken off and damaged smd-s are replaced via professional service.
But it is worse now.
I dont get any screen on my older pc-s (P2, P3 systems). After a few seconds it is turning off. I tried different motherboards (440Lx P2 266, 440Bx P2 450, 815 P3 1,4), different power supply (Evga 600w, Fsp 350w) even different monitors, cables, positions, different agp clocks...
It is only working with pcie-pci-agp adapter (33mhz pci mode?) in a skylake system but it has the same artifacts. Strange but the screen is perfect on remote desktop (dwservice, Vnc).

I can use it in the new system but only in pci mode (only in win7 legacy setup but not in uefi mode), but i want to use it in my older system for benchmarking/overclocking (Abit ST6, 1,4ghz P3S...)

What can i do? Reflow? Reball? Why it is not working in a real agp motherboard? What part controls the agp clock or the bus on this card?

Is there a solder bridge on two pins of the third RAM chip from the left on the upper side of the card?
Generally those solder connections don't look too good anymore. Do you have the tools and skill to retouch them?

i reflowed all the smd parts and rams with flux and 215c hot air solder station, it was very dirty (it is from trash, i think the card was in the rain)
i made a litle progress, now with the adapters i can enter the bios in the skylake pc but the card still only works with adapters and not getting any screen with native AGP.
I got RGB lines in bios but in dos it is perfect.

Hot air at 215°C will usually not be enough to melt the solder before damaging the chips. You probably only cooked the flux.
I'm also afraid those pictures are too low res to see anything.

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-05-23, 17:57:

Hot air at 215°C will usually not be enough to melt the solder before damaging the chips. You probably only cooked the flux.
I'm also afraid those pictures are too low res to see anything.

I always start lower temp when i reflow, but i realy dont know what temp to use for this old card.
The new cards i start at 230 and then 240 to 290 if no success. I reflowed a lot of cards but they are much more complex (gtx 680/ 7970 and up) but sadly only half of them are working more than a month. I know reflowing is not the best but better than to put in an oven. I dont have the equipment for reball or good resolder. So that is why i started low temp, i think the flux cleaned it a little.
Before i continue i will test the card with 3dmark01se and other benchmark. I really think that is not the vram failing.

240 C is not hot enough for lead-free solder. I had to go high around 360C and preheater under the board.

For lead solder, 300-340 is perfect, still preheater.

Cheers,

I agree with Pentiumspeed. Though I am not as familiar with the exact temps they sound within what I would assume to be reasonable.
Keep in mind that reflowing solder connections is different from temporarily reviving GPUs by heating them.

One more thing you can try is pressing the GPU against the PCB while starting the PC. If there's a broken solder joint underneath the chip chances are it'll make a physical connection good enough to make the problems disappear als long as you keep pressing.

But really this looks like either failing VRAM or electrical issues between VRAM and GPU.

pentiumspeed wrote on 2022-05-23, 19:53:

240 C is not hot enough for lead-free solder. I had to go high around 360C and preheater under the board.

For lead solder, 300-340 is perfect, still preheater.

Cheers,

I have 185C melting point lead solder paste (i use 230C for soldering). And i use 260-270c to remove the stock non lead solder. Only the big solder surface mosfets and other vrm parts needs preheat and over 300C but i dont repair that things.
I have replaced a few smd and even a vram with under 300C. But they was common cards not this rare card, that is why i much more carefull with temps and repairs.

pentiumspeed wrote on 2022-05-23, 19:53:

240 C is not hot enough for lead-free solder. I had to go high around 360C and preheater under the board.

For lead solder, 300-340 is perfect, still preheater.

Cheers,

Uhm, actually the reason you set your temperature higher is because the moment you touch the object you want to solder, heat flows into the object and the heater switches on.

If you take a piece of solder to the tip of your iron with it set to 240, if it is actually 240, the piece of solder will melt.

BTW i have this somewhat cheap YIHUA-898D soldering station (~50 usd) and the cheapest lead solder.