joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 05:50:

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋 20220908_224239.jpg 20220908_22 […]
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darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 04:32:

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seem […]
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joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-08, 23:21:

Sort of. It would be a EVGA 450 BT from 4 years ago. This guy used it for his build and that's where I got the idea of using a modern PSU and will use the model Tech Tangents used just to be sure it would actually work.

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seems to be OK at handling mainly 5V loads.
So assuming it is still in working order and in-spec, it should be a lot better than your original one .

[1]
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450 … e-psu,5605.html
https://www.overclock.net/threads/why-you-sho … -bt450.1715802/
https://web.archive.org/web/20190724102211/ht … w-power-supply/

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋
20220908_224239.jpg
20220908_224247.jpg
20220908_224300.jpg
20220908_224318.jpg

The capacitors closest to the power supply connector show bulging and signs of corrosion due to leakage on top of the cross shaped vent. So these are bad . The one closest to the video card in the first photo looks like it might be slightly bulging on top, but it is hard to tell due to the photo angle and lighting. Capacitors can degrade and fail without outward signs, so you can't always tell by looking at them, but when they do bulge and/or leak, it is certain they have gone bad.

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 06:47:

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 05:50:

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋 20220908_224239.jpg 20220908_22 […]
Show full quote

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 04:32:

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seem […]
Show full quote

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seems to be OK at handling mainly 5V loads.
So assuming it is still in working order and in-spec, it should be a lot better than your original one .

[1]
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450 … e-psu,5605.html
https://www.overclock.net/threads/why-you-sho … -bt450.1715802/
https://web.archive.org/web/20190724102211/ht … w-power-supply/

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋
20220908_224239.jpg
20220908_224247.jpg
20220908_224300.jpg
20220908_224318.jpg

The capacitors closest to the power supply connector show bulging and signs of corrosion due to leakage on top of the cross shaped vent. So these are bad . The one closest to the video card in the first photo looks like it might be slightly bulging on top, but it is hard to tell due to the photo angle and lighting. Capacitors can degrade and fail without outward signs, so you can't always tell by looking at them, but when they do bulge and/or leak, it is certain they have gone bad.

I notice the bads ones now with my moronic self 🤪. Can bad capacitors cause computers to shut down?

The capacitors are obviously in bad shape, there are even more than those near the PSU connector. And you'd need to recap all of the same type. The board is very old anyway so that's no surprise.
I have an asus p3 board and it's unstable at 100 MHZ bus, at 133 it doesn't even post. The caps look good and they are nichicon, mine doesn't have isa so i don't think it's worth repairing.

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 06:47:

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 05:50:

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋 20220908_224239.jpg 20220908_22 […]
Show full quote

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 04:32:

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seem […]
Show full quote

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seems to be OK at handling mainly 5V loads.
So assuming it is still in working order and in-spec, it should be a lot better than your original one .

[1]
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450 … e-psu,5605.html
https://www.overclock.net/threads/why-you-sho … -bt450.1715802/
https://web.archive.org/web/20190724102211/ht … w-power-supply/

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋
20220908_224239.jpg
20220908_224247.jpg
20220908_224300.jpg
20220908_224318.jpg

The capacitors closest to the power supply connector show bulging and signs of corrosion due to leakage on top of the cross shaped vent. So these are bad . The one closest to the video card in the first photo looks like it might be slightly bulging on top, but it is hard to tell due to the photo angle and lighting. Capacitors can degrade and fail without outward signs, so you can't always tell by looking at them, but when they do bulge and/or leak, it is certain they have gone bad.

I've reinstalled the orginal motherboard (with no bad capacitors) as well as the CPU (a Intel PIII 733MHz) that was include with the built and now the PC no longer powers down but I'm back at square one where it gets no post.

It's LED lights on the motherboard are all red, what does that mean?.

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 06:47:

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 05:50:

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋 20220908_224239.jpg 20220908_22 […]
Show full quote

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 04:32:

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seem […]
Show full quote

Well, it was apparently very affordable (was 25$ to 40$ when new) and didn't review disastrously [1]. On the plus side, it seems to be OK at handling mainly 5V loads.
So assuming it is still in working order and in-spec, it should be a lot better than your original one .

[1]
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450 … e-psu,5605.html
https://www.overclock.net/threads/why-you-sho … -bt450.1715802/
https://web.archive.org/web/20190724102211/ht … w-power-supply/

Here are clear close up images of the capacitors, they all look fine to me but what do I know? 😋
20220908_224239.jpg
20220908_224247.jpg
20220908_224300.jpg
20220908_224318.jpg

The capacitors closest to the power supply connector show bulging and signs of corrosion due to leakage on top of the cross shaped vent. So these are bad . The one closest to the video card in the first photo looks like it might be slightly bulging on top, but it is hard to tell due to the photo angle and lighting. Capacitors can degrade and fail without outward signs, so you can't always tell by looking at them, but when they do bulge and/or leak, it is certain they have gone bad.

I got further in when I press the reset button on the computer and it got a post but now it hangs at the boot screen with a CMOS error message.

Also the LED lights on the motherboard are now 🟢🟢🔴🟢, is that good?.

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:36:

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

Where do I find the PC health section from here?.

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:55:

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:36:

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

Where do I find the PC health section from here?.
20220909_055252.jpg

Not all motherboards had such a feature at the time. If it exists on this one, it may be hidden under one if the main sections.

darry wrote on 2022-09-09, 19:47:

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:55:

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:36:

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

Where do I find the PC health section from here?.
20220909_055252.jpg

Not all motherboards had such a feature at the time. If it exists on this one, it may be hidden under one if the main sections.

After I replace the CMOS battery like dondiego suggested, how do I reconfigure the settings?.

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:36:

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

I've replaced the CMOs battery with a new modern one as well as the power supply with a EVGA 450 BT. But both did noithing where it still gets the CMOs checksum error. 😥

Check if this motherboard that I've replaced from the previous one with the 2 dead capacitors has any flaws in these new pics I just took.

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-09, 12:36:

That means the battery is empty, replace with a new CR2032 one. And check voltages in BIOS in the pc health section.
Of course after you replace it you need to reconfigure the settings and save.

Try pressing DEL to enter setup as it says on the bottom of the screen and then save settings and exit . On the next boot, the checksum should no longer appear.

Once that is done, you will likely still need to access setup again effect some changes in order to configure the boot drive, but testing the above would be a good first step.

EDIT : Nothing visually problematic on the capacitors according to my eyes. Keep in mind that capacitors can go out of spec or fail without any visual cues .

darry wrote on 2022-09-16, 02:39:

Try pressing DEL to enter setup as it says on the bottom of the screen and then save settings and exit . On the next boot, the checksum should no longer appear.

Once that is done, you will likely still need to access setup again effect some changes in order to configure the boot drive, but testing the above would be a good first step.

EDIT : Nothing visually problematic on the capacitors according to my eyes. Keep in mind that capacitors can go out of spec or fail without any visual cues .

After I made my last message and before I read this message, I've checked out this video to see if it made any use. Iv'e followed on what to do in the video and the CMOs error was gone and was able to boot into Windows.

Unfortunately, it appears the motherboard is messed up as everytime to first boot up the computer, I get no post until I have to repeatedly press the reset button until it gets a post, It's very annoying. Then every other time, it freezes at the boot screen after powering it on where it looks like this 👇🏼.

Then, when it goes into Windows without freezing, it gets frequent errors like illegal shutdowns or blue screens.

I have no clue if all that is a problem with the motherboard, or the operating system!!!. 😭

I would suggest that you strip the machine down to one stick of RAM and a video card and run Memtest.

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-09-16, 03:51:

I would suggest that you strip the machine down to one stick of RAM and a video card and run Memtest.

Do I run Memtest in DOS mode?.

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-16, 04:14:

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-09-16, 03:51:

I would suggest that you strip the machine down to one stick of RAM and a video card and run Memtest.

Do I run Memtest in DOS mode?.

I'm assuming that your machine has a working floppy drive, and that you have a good blank floppy disk. If you have both of those, that program will write the image to the floppy, then you boot from the floppy it it will be automatic from there. There are other ways to run it, but I still find the floppy disk to be fast and easy so long as you have one in the machine you want to run MemTest on.

https://www.memtest86.com/

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-09-16, 04:54:

joeguy3121 wrote on 2022-09-16, 04:14:

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-09-16, 03:51:

I would suggest that you strip the machine down to one stick of RAM and a video card and run Memtest.

Do I run Memtest in DOS mode?.

I'm assuming that your machine has a working floppy drive, and that you have a good blank floppy disk. If you have both of those, that program will write the image to the floppy, then you boot from the floppy it it will be automatic from there. There are other ways to run it, but I still find the floppy disk to be fast and easy so long as you have one in the machine you want to run MemTest on.

https://www.memtest86.com/

Another problem with the machine is that the CD drive can't access any CDs when inserted in, but the floppy drive works. However, I don't have any blank floppy disks so I guess we'll have to go with "other ways".

Caps on last photo (near PSU connestor) are OBVIOUSLY leaked and needs replacing, which is likely to ceuse that issue.
Also, one of the wires on ATX connector is damaged (oragne one, bottom right side on last ohoto)

The photos you mention are OBVIOUSLY from the old motherboard and PSU. The new photos don't cover the entire new motherboard. Looks like bad caps too though.

dondiego wrote on 2022-09-16, 19:30:

The photos you mention are OBVIOUSLY from the old motherboard and PSU. The new photos don't cover the entire new motherboard. Looks like bad caps too though.

Riiiiiiiiiiiiigggghhht!!!!! beacuse I never mention that I bought a new exact same model as a replacement which has bad capacitors then restoring the old motherboard with no brown capacitors like in this "fake" photo......

And I've obviously modded my PSU that I didn't replace to resemble a EVGA PSU......

SMH 🤦🏼‍♂️