If you have access to a lab it would easy to replace that chip with a PCB preheater and hot air. Or even low melt solder. Before you jump to action pull the datasheet on that chip and see what that pin does.

Don't think of it as randomly gouging at precision equipment, think of it as 1:72nd scale dinosaur femur excavation. Seriously if you mask off anywhere where tools might slip, you can't really do more damage than it's got, can still replace chip if you mess up.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-14, 04:21:

Don't think of it as randomly gouging at precision equipment, think of it as 1:72nd scale dinosaur femur excavation. Seriously if you mask off anywhere where tools might slip, you can't really do more damage than it's got, can still replace chip if you mess up.

Those mini cordless engraver pins everyone is using to grind traces would probably work well here. But I don't know if it's worth buying something if he has access to an SMD lab.

I'd Dremel the plasticaway very carefully and solder in a small wire. It does requirea steady hand and small tip but it is definitely doable with a regular iron.

First off get the rest of that pin off the pin next to it and see if those 2 are shorting out something important.

You can gently shave away the plastic with a hobby knife, then push the broken leg back to its place and solder it.
although chip seems to have suffered from an Impact, you might need to replace it.

Looking at the datasheet for the K4D261638E (think that's the right part?) then the broken leg is 54 - DQ8. Leg to the left (53) is N/C and leg to the right (55) is Vddq. So I think there's a good chance the chip will be ok, even if the PCB pad for leg 54 has been shorted to leg 53. Datasheet just says the NC is recommended, not required. Possible crack on leg 55 probably doesn't matter, but a dab of solder might stop it failing later.

Thanks for all the feedback folks. I'll bring home my microscope from work and take a look at the card again this weekend. Assuming mechanical manipulation doesn't work, I'm feeling good that the 'shave and solder' technique is the way to do.

snufkin wrote on 2024-03-14, 10:54:

Looking at the datasheet for the K4D261638E (think that's the right part?) then the broken leg is 54 - DQ8. Leg to the left (53) is N/C and leg to the right (55) is Vddq. So I think there's a good chance the chip will be ok, even if the PCB pad for leg 54 has been shorted to leg 53. Datasheet just says the NC is recommended, not required. Possible crack on leg 55 probably doesn't matter, but a dab of solder might stop it failing later.

Correct on that p/n and thanks for the tip!

kingcake wrote on 2024-03-14, 04:24:

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-14, 04:21:

Don't think of it as randomly gouging at precision equipment, think of it as 1:72nd scale dinosaur femur excavation. Seriously if you mask off anywhere where tools might slip, you can't really do more damage than it's got, can still replace chip if you mess up.

Those mini cordless engraver pins everyone is using to grind traces would probably work well here. But I don't know if it's worth buying something if he has access to an SMD lab.

Honestly couldn't tell you what the EEs keep in their lab (I'm a ME by training and profession) but I'll keep an eye out assuming I need to do some shaving.

I'll post an update after I've had a chance at repairing the card. Really hoping to get this card working for my all purpose Win98SE system.