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Recharging old batteries

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First post, by douglar

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I’ve got some old external motherboard batteries, vintage 1992:1993 Is it foolish to see if they can be recharged?

TADIRAN TL-5209/W
3.6V HIGH ENERGY LITHIUM BATTERY

TADIRAN TL 5242 / W
3.6V HIGH ENERGY HEAT/ LITHIUM BATTERY

Reply 2 of 7, by Horun

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I would also say no. The TL-5242/W is def not rechargeable. The are sort of like coin cell lithium's not meant to be recharged...

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 3 of 7, by DaveDDS

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Agreed - don't recharge lithium coin cells (the only one I recall that's
rechargeable is the ML2032 used in Logitech solar keyboards - very hard to
get and pricey - but that's another story).

The topic reminds me of preserving and recovering NICAD and NMIH rechargeable..
*not relevant here, but useful info if you use them elsewhere*

They have a few "interesting" properties which cause them to die easily:

-They suffer from "memory effect" - this means that it you don't fully
discharge them often, they will eventually "remember" where they get drained
to and that becomes the new "out" - their capacity diminishes.

-Not all cells of the same type/brand are *exactly* the same... this means
that one or more cells discharging in series (most cases) will empty slightly
before the others, and will get to zero or even begin to get a bit "reverse
charged" - This condition sometimes cause cells to internally short.

So the problem becomes - how to discharge all cells fully to avoid memory,
without causing some to revere change/short.

My solution:
-I never use "packs", or if I had to I would disassemble/reconstruct them to
make the individual cells accessible.

-I built a "discharger".. this was two parallel metal bars with flex "fingers"
on one side (made from furnace pipe) - essentially a "holder" for up to 10
cells - this let me discharge all the cells in parallel.

-The discharge load was a very low resistance (.333ohm), going through a big
2A stud rectifier diode(2A so I could discharge 10 cells at once at a good
rate). A very useful characteristics of diodes is that they typically have
about .7v drop. Changed bank of cells are 1.2v - 0.7=0.5/0.333 = about 1.5
amps which goes to 0 amps when they get down to 0.7v
- so pretty much fully discharged, but not to zero.

I've had lots of equipment which uses series AA nicads (like 10x1.2=12v),
and I've used this device for 20+ years with very few going bad.

Btw, if a NICAD does internally short, there is a "trick" that will sometimes
clear the short - use a big capacitor (10,000uf or so) change to a reasonable
voltage (say 6V) - then remove power, and using nice thick wires - tap it to
the shorted NICAD ... This will provide a LOT of current, but being a cap under
heavy discharge, it won't last long at all - often enough to clear the short
without sustained high-current to otherwise damage the cell.

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Reply 4 of 7, by mdog69

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Please please please do not attempt to recharge Tadiron Lithium Thionyl Chloride (LiSOCl2) batteries.

In fact don't play with them at all.

Read the MSDS for these devices.

They are nasty with toxic reactive electrolyte and unforgiving behaviour when abused, and remain a threat even when dead.

Unless you have the skills to do a proper risk assessment, and a proper understanding of the risks posed, don't play/experiment with these batteries. (Note - if you need to look up what "MSDS" means, that's a good indicator that you shouldn't be playing)

Reply 5 of 7, by DaveDDS

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DaveDDS wrote on 2024-12-12, 06:36:

Agreed - don't recharge lithium coin cells (the only one I recall that's
rechargeable is the ML2032 used in Logitech solar keyboards - very hard to
get and pricey - but that's another story).

Just picked up a little USB charger with a 10-pack of LIR2032, turns out to be another
rechargeable coin cell - but unlike 3v ML(andCR)2032s, these are 3.6v, so not suitable
in some ML2032 replacement applications.. I've seen a couple reports that they work OK
in the solar keyboard mentioned above, so I may give one a try...

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Reply 6 of 7, by douglar

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DaveDDS wrote on 2025-01-25, 02:30:
Just picked up a little USB charger with a 10-pack of LIR2032, turns out to be another rechargeable coin cell - but unlike 3v ML […]
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Just picked up a little USB charger with a 10-pack of LIR2032, turns out to be another
rechargeable coin cell - but unlike 3v ML(andCR)2032s, these are 3.6v, so not suitable
in some ML2032 replacement applications.. I've seen a couple reports that they work OK
in the solar keyboard mentioned above, so I may give one a try...

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Maybe good for varta replacement?

Reply 7 of 7, by mkarcher

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douglar wrote on 2025-01-26, 03:02:
DaveDDS wrote on 2025-01-25, 02:30:

Just picked up a little USB charger with a 10-pack of LIR2032

Maybe good for varta replacement?

Probably not, if you just think of a drop-in replacement in old mainboards. The NiCd batteries on those boards used to get trickle charged, which means there is charge voltage/current available the wohle time the system is on. On the other hand, those Lithium cells neither like continous constant-(low)-current charging or even just continous application of end-of-charge voltage (aka "floar charge") with the current being (nearly) zero.