Probably should have this thread merged with the one below... or the other way around, but whatever.
Excellent power model IT ATX 300w - shuts down after a split second
I already replied on badcaps.
As for the question of the thread and whether the PSU is worth repairing for a retro PC - I'd say, YES overall. And here's my reasoning below:
From what I see from the pictures, it's basically a Deer/Allied/ higher-end Solytech unit with proper filtering components on both the input and output. Basically, it's nothing special and just a standard 250-300 Watt half-bridge topology PSU. However, the 5V rail probably has a 30 Amp rectifier part (see if it's a TO-247 part, like STPS3045 or similar) or at worst a 20 Amp part... so either way, the 5V rail will still be pretty capable of handling at least 20 Amps worth of load with either of these rectifiers - a plus for an older socket A build. The heatsinks are beefy enough to support this too. And the main transformer appears to be proper 35-mm-wide part and of normal height, which means this PSU shouldn't be lying about its power rating: 250 Watts nominal, 300 Watts peak.
Just replace the bulging caps with high-quality "entry-level low-ESR" ones (i.e. Rubycon YXJ, Nichicon PS/PM/PW, United Chemicon LXZ, Panasonic FC) and it should be good to go for a long time.
I actually have the same PSU, but from Solitech's L&C line - i.e. the "bottom-of-the-barrel" units. Mine was missing all of the input filtering, and the output filtering consisted of only ONE 2200 uF cap for each output rail and no PI coils... which is NO GOOD. I fixed all of that and it's suddenly not that bad of a unit anymore. With that said, the minimum I cap configuration I suggest for these units is 2x 2200 uF for the 3.3V rail, 2x 2200 uF for the 5V rail, and 1x 1000 uF + 1x 1200-1500 uF for the 12V rail. This should keep the output ripple in check.
