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Is this CPU temp okay?

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First post, by JustRob

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Just wondering if this is good. Right now only the CPU fan is in there. The case has an option for a 50x50x15 case fan on the backside which I plan to install, but there’s no other options for mounting fans. I really don’t wanna modify the case, because it’s a vintage Vobis case and I don’t wanna risk messing it up. It’s running Windows 98, mostly for mid-late ‘90s Windows/3D games and for DOS games in pure DOS mode.

Reply 1 of 21, by StriderTR

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May I ask what CPU your running?

I assume that's idle temp?

Normally, just that one extra fan is fine for older systems. I don't see a need to modify your case. You may just need a beefier CPU cooler.

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Reply 2 of 21, by PD2JK

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Well... Depends on the CPU model.

Prescott? No worries.
Coppermine? Something's not mounted correctly or you have zero airflow.

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Reply 3 of 21, by JustRob

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This is about the best I can do without tearing it open. I want to say it's a coppermine 1.0 Ghz pentium 3, but it's been about 3-4 years since I assembled it. However, nothing is mounted in correctly. It has a heatsink and a Noctua fan installed.

But when it comes to airflow there isn't much right now. Only things spinning are the PSU and CPU fans.

Reply 4 of 21, by debs3759

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Yes, that's a Coppermine stepping cD0

See my graphics card database at www.gpuzoo.com
Constantly being worked on. Feel free to message me with any corrections or details of cards you would like me to research and add.

Reply 5 of 21, by JustRob

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Maybe the cooling paste is up for renewal? How often are you supposed to put new compound on?

Reply 6 of 21, by StriderTR

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Yeah, that's hot for Coppermine.

"Quality" thermal compound can last quite a long time, like the classic Arctic Silver 5 or the more modern MX4. Some cheaper compounds dry out faster than that and can lose their thermal conductivity, especially older compounds. However, the common recommendation is to change it out every 2-3 years or so, I check mine every 3 years unless I notice thermal issues sooner. If yours has been on there longer than that, it might not hurt to change it out. Might be a simple fix.

A lot also depends on the cooler. Has it been working good up until recently? Put it in a different case? Or is this a "new" build?

Do you recall if your version has a heat spreader or not? The model without the spreader has a much smaller area to transfer heat away compared to the one with a heat spreader.

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Reply 7 of 21, by JustRob

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It’s the bottom one, so yeah.

I did move it to a different case. Had it in a Lian Li first which had built in fans front and back. But this case is more period appropiate, that’s why I changed it.

I’ll try applying new thermal paste and see if that makes a difference

Reply 8 of 21, by chrismeyer6

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I would flip the CPU fan so it's blowing air down through the heatsink fins instead of drawing air up through the heatsink fins.

Reply 9 of 21, by StriderTR

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chrismeyer6 wrote on 2025-03-03, 02:05:

I would flip the CPU fan so it's blowing air down through the heatsink fins instead of drawing air up through the heatsink fins.

I didn't even notice that. Getting old sucks. 😀

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Reply 10 of 21, by JustRob

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chrismeyer6 wrote on 2025-03-03, 02:05:

I would flip the CPU fan so it's blowing air down through the heatsink fins instead of drawing air up through the heatsink fins.

Oh god, I think you're right. I'm dumb. So I'll fix that when I refresh the thermal paste

Reply 11 of 21, by PD2JK

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Looks like he (guy in the YouTube video) made the same error, it doesn't explain the high temperature though.

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Reply 12 of 21, by JustRob

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It sort of tops out at 60 degrees, it kinda deviates between 48-60. But yeah idk what else to do aside from installing a backside fan.

Reply 13 of 21, by chrismeyer6

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I'd start by flipping the CPU fan to get proper airflow over the fins and definitely add a exhaust fan.

Reply 14 of 21, by momaka

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Yeah, something isn't mounted right here. Pentium 3's simply don't run that hot, especially one with the CPU fan running at 3k RPM.
FWIW, I'm running the stock fan of my stock P3 heatsink on 7V, dropping the RPM from 5k to about 2.2k constant. And even with that, I have not seen my temperatures top 45-48C under load. It's a Pentium III 933 MHz Coppermine, for the record, and no head spreader.

If you are sure everything is mounted correctly (flip the fan too while at it, as others suggested), then perhaps the heat spreader on yours is starting to get poor coupling (due to dry paste) to the CPU core/die. In that case, you might have to delid the CPU and re-apply thermal paste between the die and heat spreader.

StriderTR wrote on 2025-03-02, 23:31:

However, the common recommendation is to change it out every 2-3 years or so, I check mine every 3 years unless I notice thermal issues sooner.

That's kind of a wasteful thing to do.
Just about any non-gabrage thermal paste can last for years or even decades, so long as it doesn't see very high temperatures (generally above 60C) and a high dissipation per small surface area (i.e. when you have a very small and hot silicon die trying to dissipate heat into a very large and cool heatsink.)
So for instance, I have an Athlon 64 X2 6000+ CPU on which I used the cheap no-name "gray" thermal compound stuff from Ebay and its stock (but relatively large) heatsink. Because I've always ran that CPU cool (under-clocked to 2.4 GHz most of the time and under-volted to 1.125-1.2V), the cheapo no-name thermal compound I used is still OK and hasn't dried or pumped out. FWIW, I put this machine back in 2014 - over 10 years ago now. It has seen moderate (though not everyday) use for retro gaming. And this is not my only example. I don't recall actually having to re-paste any of my systems. The CPUs with heat-spreaders are still showing the same load temperatures (or maybe increased by 1-2C tops) as the day I put them together (some with the same cheap no-name thermal compound, others with more proper stuff like MX2/4.)

So I think people underestimate how long thermal compound is supposed to last.
Now on new(er) PCs / CPUs / GPUs that run in the 60+ Celsius range, I can see that happening where the paste dries in 4-5 years or so, especially with heavy use. In fact, I have gotten many GPUs from Ebay with dry thermal compound that looks and performs completely like chalk. But that's because a lot of these cards ran at 70+ C with their stock coolers, and some were even clogged with dust, probably running close to 80C. With such high temperatures, thermal compounds DO start to dry. Repasting all of these and jacking up their fan profiles... or simply replacing their coolers with bigger ones... has not made them come back with dry paste yet.

Oh, and one last point: thermal compound is -reusable- , if still properly "moist".
With that said, I don't ever throw away old thermal compound anymore if it still appears to be normal. Instead I scoop it up and re-use it later on. To attest to this, I have several GPUs now running with -reused- thermal compound, some of which have been in service for a few years. Temperature-wise, they are within 2C to how they performed with new good brand-name thermal compound like MX4.

Reply 15 of 21, by StriderTR

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Yeah, my every 3 year check is no longer a physical check. That's a holdover from my overclocking days when I would push my hardware to its limits, see where it started crashing, back it off a bit, then test for stability. Once I found my sweet spot, I would just run it like that until it was replaced. So, I payed much closer attention to thermals than I do these days since I don't overclock anymore.

My thermal checks these days is to just max everything out and watch my temps. If they're good, I don't touch anything. If I don't like what I see, I investigate. Most good modern compounds can and will last several years.

Believe it or not, I've run into more issues with factory GPU compounds than I ever had with CPU. I can't tell you how many times I've had to replace compound/pads on new video cards that were running warmer than they should. Sometimes it was just poor contact or installation, other times it was just flaky compound.

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Reply 16 of 21, by JustRob

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It's weird, but while in Windows it shows a much lower CPU temp. Maybe this software is inaccurate.

Reply 17 of 21, by chrismeyer6

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Most of the time in bios the CPUs are more or less pegged at 100%. I'd still flip your CPU cooler fan and add an exhaust fan you can never have to much cooling or proper airflow

Reply 18 of 21, by momaka

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JustRob wrote on 2025-03-05, 14:21:

It's weird, but while in Windows it shows a much lower CPU temp. Maybe this software is inaccurate.

That's an interesting find now - could be.

Try this: run the CPU with a stress-test program or game for about 15-20 minutes and see what temperature you get with this software. Also try some other software too, like SpeedFan or similar. Post what temperatures you get so we can compare the idle vs. load difference.

Another thing to try: let the PC cool down completely (off for at least an hour), then turn it On and quickly go into BIOS and check the CPU temperature right away. Is it still 60C? It would be interesting to see if there is also any difference here between when the CPU is "cold" and when it isn't after 10-15 minutes in BIOS. If the temperature difference from this matches the one above in software, then either the BIOS temperature or the software temperature have an offset. As to which one is accurate... that one is going to be hard to tell. In such cases, it may be useful to try another CPU - a low-end P3 (500-733 MHz) should do nicely, as these are known to run very cool.

Reply 19 of 21, by JustRob

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Okay, so I flipped the CPU fan. Didn't install the case fan yet, because I ordered the wrong one from Amazon (it had no connector, just loose pins. Why? Idk. The picture on Amazon very cleverly did not show the end of the cable).

This is the BIOS temp after a cold boot:

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This is the BIOS temp after 15 mins or so:

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Windows temp after boot:

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