VOGONS


First post, by Ozzuneoj

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I haven't seen a thread like this around recently, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to put this information out there and allow for others to post their experiences as well. It seems that, overall, coin cell battery quality has declined dramatically in recent years and has become a bit of a mine field. Since most tend to work out of the box only to wear out or start corroding prematurely, I think this is good information to share.

And before people mention it, yes, I'm aware that you can buy one Duracell coin-cell for $5 and it is pretty much always going to work. I don't want to go that way myself since I deal with fairly large volumes of boards and machines and the price adds up quickly. Hopefully others will benefit from the time I've spent trying to find the best batteries for the money over the past few years.

The format of this will basically just be the name of batteries I have recent experiences with, the verdict (good or bad?), when and where purchased, their intended use, and what happened to them.

To start off...

MuRata CR2032 Lithium coin cells - Purchased in October 2022 = Two 50 packs were VERY BAD! Lots of defects. - Bought a huge pack of these from DigiKey to keep on hand for projects and they all had tiny bits of weird brown residue in the package, seemingly from the seals. The seal (between the + and - halves) were sort of chunky and brown looking, not smooth, black and uniform like basically every 2032 I've ever used or pulled out of a 25+ year old motherboard. I contacted Digikey and they sent me a whole replacement pack of them and when I looked the replacements over they looked similar, if slightly better. I was frustrated but figured that maybe this was just the new norm and this is the quality of CR2032 we're going to get now.

Fast forward two years to 2024 and I'd been putting these into computers and old boards for a while... I had 10 or so in a battery holder and noticed that several had a white, hazy\tarnished look creeping out from around the edges, mostly over the bottom or top faces of the batteries. When I went into my stockpile to get more out (in an my air conditioned office...) I see that MANY of the ones still in the original storage packs\bags are doing the same thing! At this point, it's too late to expect a refund, but I contact digikey anyway, and they obviously don't do anything. So, MuRata either had a bad batch and no one cared to stand behind the product being sold at an electronics distributor, or they are just garbage in general.

Toshiba CR2032 Lithium coin cells (Yellow Pack; mentions Japan but made in PRC\China) - Purchased in December 2024. = So far, good! - After getting burned by what was presented as a brand name product from a reputable seller (MuRata from DigiKey), I spent hours researching and trying to figure out what brand may actually be decent. I guess a lot of companies that used to do in-house battery manufacturing in Japan or Switzerland (Renata) now mostly import them from China anyway. So, most brands are a roll of the dice as to whether you're getting one manufactured competently (and not 10 years ago), or one that is complete garbage and likely to fail or corrode. I saw good comments in a few places about Toshiba's yellow-package batteries manufactured in China being among of the better ones. I bought some in December of last year and I'm happy to say that all of the ones I've used have worked great, the ones in the packages have no corrosion on them, they are shiny and the seals are black like they're supposed to be. If they haven't changed since 2024, I think these are a good buy for a budget CR2032.

LOOPACELL SR927SW, 395 Silver Oxide 1.55v Coin Cells - Purchased February 2020 = okay; Purchased March 2023 = HORRIBLE! - I use these for a tiny LED lit jeweler's magnifier that I use to inspect tiny components on boards very quickly. I used to use LR927\AG7 alkaline batteries but found that they were all trash and would be corroded or half dead when I received them or would corrode within a year, either inside a device or in storage. I had read that Silver Oxide batteries tended to be higher quality and less prone to leakage\corrosion, so I found cheap ones and gave them a try. First batch of 10 purchased in 2020 seemed to be fine and lasted me a few years with no issues that I recall. I purchased 25 more in 2023 and I'm not sure exactly when I first used this pack (probably late last year), but only a couple are missing from the 5x packages from this order right now... sadly, every single one of them is corroded. The ones in my magnifier, and all of the ones in the 5 packages. So yeah... avoid these. If they were good originally, they became garbage at some point.

Renata SR927SW, SR57, 395 Silver Oxide 1.55v Coin Cells - Purchased October 2025, not tested yet. - I was under the impression that Renata (Swiss company) was still manufacturing all of their batteries in China, but the datasheet for these is marked "Swiss Made", so who knows. Regardless of where they were made, these are currently being sold on DigiKey's marketplace through "BatteryGuy", and surprisingly have free shipping. So, the price is competitive (10 batteries for $8.60 + tax), the name brand is good and it's being sold through a battery seller, for whatever that's worth. They could turn out to be garbage, or super outdated, but I was willing to give them a try. The Renata ones being sold on Amazon have lots of reviews saying they are old stock (and they cost more), so we'll see if these are from that same pool or not. They can't be as bad as the Loopacells... right? - DigiKey canceled my order for the Renata SR927 batteries. I guess the marketplace seller was out of stock. 🙄

ACDelco UltraMAX AA and UltraMAX AAA Alkaline batteries - Purchased a few times from 2022 to 2024 = No problems to speak of. - I picked up several large packs of Duracell Quantum (no longer sold) AA and AAA batteries at a local discount store in 2019 and they lasted a while, but several ending up leaky in whatever devices I had them in. As those ran out, I did more battery research and found some reviews that pointed to these ACDelco UltraMAX batteries being good and reliable, especially for the price. At this point, I have used lots of them over the past three years and never had any problems at all. None have leaked and none were DOA. I actually trust putting these in 3xAA or 3xAAA battery packs to act as CMOS batteries in old pre-CR2032 systems, and have had no issues. I will update this if I ever find any leaking. As of October 2025, I highly recommend these for basic AA and AAA batteries on a budget.

For now, that's all I have to post. I may come up with more later though. 😀

Last edited by Ozzuneoj on 2025-10-28, 03:28. Edited 1 time in total.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 1 of 7, by sunkindly

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Thanks for the write up! I've accumulated a ton of coin cell batteries, most of them are KTS, Sony, Panasonic, Maxell and I'm assuming they're pretty good?

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Reply 3 of 7, by paradigital

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Even the “good” brands can be a bit lacklustre.

Not retro in the slightest, but the £250k hyperconverged cluster that I commissioned at work less than 2 years ago has had three out of four CR2032s die in that time, and they are powered up 24/7/365. These were all Energizer branded.

Reply 4 of 7, by Ozzuneoj

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sunkindly wrote on 2025-10-27, 15:56:

Thanks for the write up! I've accumulated a ton of coin cell batteries, most of them are KTS, Sony, Panasonic, Maxell and I'm assuming they're pretty good?

Honestly, I have never had severe problems with a CR2032 before the MuRata ones I purchased from DigiKey in 2022, and the whole reason I purchased those was because of an uptick in bad reviews on Amazon showing that a lot of the popular brands were being replaced with knock offs or were manufactured poorly. I figured that the best way to avoid fakes and low quality knock offs would be to buy a decent brand name product from an electronics company. I was honestly shocked that this was the outcome.

In the past I used Panasonic, Sony, Maxell and KTS, the same as you. At the time, most of those were made in Japan and that made a big difference in quality. I think most of the ones you find on sites like Amazon now are knock offs though, sadly, and knock offs are probably built the cheapest way possible. Toshiba was a brand that people said was made in China but was actually made properly, so I went with those and so far they've been fine. It's possible I could buy any random lot of cheap CR2032 cells on Amazon and they'd be fine too... but I intend to test and replace batteries in tons of old motherboards (I have... many) and I hate taking my chances with ones that might be defective.

Also, DigiKey canceled my order for the Renata SR927 batteries. I guess the marketplace seller was out of stock. Nice. Back to hunting for those stupid things... 🙄

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 5 of 7, by DaveDDS

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Ah, Batteries have been fun over the years, I've got a few stories:

1: At the school office where my wife worked, they had a number of "Logitech
Solar Keyboards" - after a few years, their internal batteries started to
go bad - they used an ML2023 which is a recharagable CR2023 sized coin cell,
very hard to find, and pricy. So they ended up replacing them, and she brought
a few home so I could check them out. Turns out a few people have changed the
cells to CR2032, and taped over the solar cells so they wouldn't try to change
them.

I happem to have a 4.5 digit multimeter with a lowest current scale of 2ma.
Which means I can see currents of 0.0001 (.1 ua) - at that range the lowest
digit "bobbles" a bit due to induced currents, but you can tell if it is
leaning more toward 1 than 0.

I made up a jig to let me pit the battery external, and could not measure any
changing current to a CR2032, even in bright sunlight.

So I've not covered the solar cells, every couple of years I have the change
the CR2032, never seen any damage (and always test new ones don't draw charge)

The attachment Lkbd.jpg is no longer available

2: Dallas made some very handy RAM chips - these were thicher and had internal
coil cell and circuitry to make it "non-volatile" - I used them it lots of
stuff I built, as with only a monitor in ROM, I could reload working firmware
without having to take them apart, burn EPROMS etc.

But... Dallas didn't think equipment using these would ever be in operation
more than 10 years after they were built... So no way designed in to change
the coin cell. I've had to grind off the tops of several of these devices, and
"tack" on a new cell - here of some of the abominations I've made to hold them
in place (1st pic is an unmodified cell)

The attachment DallasFix.jpg is no longer available

3: Not coin cell related - when I was much more into Amateur radio, I used quite
a few handhelds and other portable rigs which ran on batteries - to get decent
power/life you wanted NiCD (later NMIH) cells, but ...

These have a well known "Memory Effect" - if you don't fully dischanrge a cell,
after a bit it starts to "remember" where the low discharge point is, and that
becomes it's new "empty" .. but .. they also really don't like it if they get
reverse changed.

Since most of this equipment used many cells in series (12v = 10 x 1.2v NiCDs),
and the cells are never made with exactly the same limits, it is impossible to
fully discharge them in use without damaging some of them. This gets worse over
time and eventually you have to replace the whole set.

So, I made this "discharger" it discharges up to 10 cells in parallel, and
discharges through a high-current stud rectifier diode - diodes have a natural
voltage drop of about 0.7v, so the cells get well below nominal 1.2v, but not
below 0.7 = full discharge & no damage! I've got sets of cells that are 15
years old and still work very well!

The attachment NiCDdis.jpg is no longer available

Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal

Reply 6 of 7, by fiasn

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not CR2032 related but what's the consensus on chinese clone ebay Li-Ion laptop batteries? i cant imagine the cells they use are particularly durable, but for $150 CAD id sure hope they are.. i am aware of the rebuilding option but spot welding 18650 cells seems... tedious? IIRC some batteries have a BMC chip that will blow an efuse if it detects a charge imbalance or other issue, rendering it totally useless and irreparable and i would rather not waste time on something that will probably not work. very little documentation on the BMC circuits for these batteries too

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Reply 7 of 7, by DaveDDS

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fiasn wrote on 2025-10-30, 03:34:

... spot welding 18650 cells seems... tedious ...

I've managed to rebuild a few packs for other stuff over the years by making contacts which apply pressure on the cell connections within the
battery case - depends on the exact nature of the case and construction of the cells - and YMMV - but sometimes an option.

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