VOGONS


PSU questions

Topic actions

First post, by ratfink

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

I have gathered some parts to put together an old 486. The motherboard I have does not of course have an ATX adapter so I'm interested in adapting an ATX PSU.

Of the 4 ATX PSUs I have, the oldest is a kobian-branded cheapie that came with a [new] cheap case. AFAIK this is the only one with all the ATX leads [it has a -5v rating on the label]..

I had three of these kobian's but only this one remains - one stopped working, and another became erratic... not a good sign but they were probably being over-challenged in the systems I had them in. The remaining one is rated at 280w so ought I think to run a 486.

Questions I have:

- This ATX PSU has been running a K6/3 system, using a GA5AX. Is that motherboard going to be OK with a more recent ATX PSU or would it need the -5v?

- I have a couple of extension cables for AT-AT and ATX-ATX. I was thinking of cutting these up and using a connector block to wire the AT-out to ATX-in plugs, so I can connect the PSU to the board. Obviously the voltages need to be correctly matched, but does the order of cables matter in any way [ie. any red 5v can go to any red 5v]? I was going to use these diagrams: http://pinouts.ru/Power/MotherboardPower_pinout.shtml and http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml

- What do I do about the orange "power good" 5v on the AT connector? Just a red 5v from the ATX supply?

Grateful for advice.

Reply 1 of 11, by retro games 100

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

I use an adaptor. Here's one I just spotted on ebay -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ATX-to-AT-Motherboard-P … id=p3286.c0.m14

Regarding the -5v issue, I think you only need it if a specific card (eg sound) requires it. To the best of my knowledge, I think it's fairly rare that you need this. I think the LAPC-i needs it, and a really old 8-bit SoundBlaster card, but I'm sure other people will be able to respond to that question better than I can.

What I can be sure about though, is the AT to ATX PSU adaptor works very well.

Reply 4 of 11, by HunterZ

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++

Don't AT PSUs usually get controlled by a power switch (always on or always off) on the case, while ATX's get controlled by a power button (only on while pressed)? Do AT-to-ATX adapters somehow account for that?

Reply 5 of 11, by retro games 100

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t
HunterZ wrote:

Don't AT PSUs usually get controlled by a power switch (always on or always off) on the case, while ATX's get controlled by a power button (only on while pressed)? Do AT-to-ATX adapters somehow account for that?

Please check out the photo on the above ebay auction link - it shows the adaptor alongside a nice chunky On/Off power switch. 😀

Reply 6 of 11, by 5u3

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie
HunterZ wrote:

Don't AT PSUs usually get controlled by a power switch (always on or always off) on the case, while ATX's get controlled by a power button (only on while pressed)?
Do AT-to-ATX adapters somehow account for that?

The adapter doesn't have to care about that.
When you leave the mainboard out of the loop, an ATX PSU has to be turned on/off by a switch: As long as the green "Power On" wire is connected to ground, the ATX PSU will run, otherwise it will go to standby mode.
ATX boards have a circuit that "emulates" the switch for the PSU because they need to be able to control the PSU for power management (i.e. wake up/shut down automatically).

Reply 7 of 11, by HunterZ

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++
5u3 wrote:

ATX boards have a circuit that "emulates" the switch for the PSU because they need to be able to control the PSU for power management (i.e. wake up/shut down automatically).

Ah, that makes sense.

I know about shorting the green wire to ground to force the PSU to turn on, as my former roommate and I did that about 5 years ago with an old spare ATX PSU so we could use it to power up components (fans, LEDs, drives, etc.) on a workbench without having to plug them into a computer first.

Reply 8 of 11, by ratfink

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

Yeah, I've just tied the green to a black wire, and use the PSU switch on the back to turn it on/off for the time being. Seems to work, I get a light on my etherlink iii, but all else seems dead so far - ie. no video.

Reply 10 of 11, by ratfink

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

Good point, I've now checked the voltages both at the block and to be completely sure, at the AT connector. All OK give or take 5%.

Now noticed that the board jumpers are not set for a DX4 cpu - it came with an AMD DX4-100 fitted and I kind of assumed that the jumpers would set right as it was described as working 😒. So I better find out the jumper settings I need - for all I know none will be right; hopefully nothing will have been broken in the meantime.