Thanks for the input TELVM!
There is only one CEHTR cap on this, a 1000uf/16v one, can be easily replaced with a 25v KYA series chemicon. I have no idea about the use of the psu, it was given to me a long time ago from a friend, AFAIK it was working inside a late 486 system. Compressed air did the trick here, not that it was too dirty to begin with... )
Will update at a later point 😀

did some digging again, I believe I found another good PSU, a Xilence XP350 :

The pfc block went to time-out and connection bridged 😁 I have no idea what these caps are but I assume they are not that great... it's very cramped and cannot get good pics of components. Assuming it's good I'm gonna keep it for future recapping or something.

* Looks fair enough for a low power retrocomp, decent input filtering and nice PI coils in the secondary. The large 120mm fan and those slots in the wall close to the main transformer will help with cooling.

But beware of this:

· Main switchers are 4977, which are rated at 7A. The archetypical NPN transistors in ancient PSUs, 13007 rated at 8A, often blow up at about ~250W DC, so I'd expect fireworks if you ever ask more than ~200W DC from that thing. The smallish '33' size main transformer hints in the same direction.

However that's plenty enough for up to PIII systems, even most Athlon systems (the +5V rectifier is a beefy 30A TO-247).

· The caps are as worse as they get, Fuhjyyu and Goldlink crap. They look OK in the pics but that junk just can't be trusted.

hmm... might not be as good as I thought then... the caps are crap and I don't care since they'll be replaced but I don't really like the rest of the analysis... I am hoarding these psus for use with p1 and p2 systems, I'll see if I can find a better one to refurb...
btw I am doing a full recap on that AT psu above, better safe than sorry. I also got the extra chemicon caps for the 300w heroichi psu here: 300W Heroichi PSU: worth refurbishing? , so I'm gonna replace with it the Chieftec psu I currently use on my main p1 and see what I'll do with the chieftec at a later point (maybe recap it and use it on my p4 build)

once again TELVM, thanks for the help!

I have a AT psu,which has a very noisy fan,i used some oil on it to make it quieter but no results,so i want to replace it,problem is the psu is very small and narrow and the fan is very thin,none of the fans i have fit inside the psu,so was thinking to cut out the metal protection at the back of psu,mount the fan on the outside and set it to suck air from inside the psu.
Is that an ok setup?I dont want't to fry the psu since it's in good shape.

^ No problem at all, some PSUs come with external fan OEM:

http://www.legitreviews.com/arctic-cooling-fu … ly-review_995/2

If the original fan grille is stamped and restrictive, cut it off to let the air flow, see pic above.

As long as we use basic common sense we can be a little creative about PSU fan placement. 😀

Only difference is that the arctic psu had the fan on the outside of the psu but inside the case pushing air into the psu,i want to place the fan on the outside of the case and psu sucking air from inside.

Notice that when there is a front pusher fan they place it either at the outside OR at the inside of the PSU, whatever suits them best, because there is little or no difference as far as air flow is concerned.

The same applies for the rear puller fan, provided we modify the PC case to allow for it.

I have a question about the big 200v filtering caps on the psus... one has 2x470uf ones and the other 2x680uf ones.
Because I could only find 1x470uf/250v in stock, is it possible to replace all with 680uf or bigger ones that can be found in stock locally? Maybe use 820 or 1000uf caps?

In theory, yes, because I think they happen before the switching takes place and so probably won't impact it negatively. You can often substitute capacitors with larger ones without anything bad happening, I'd wait for someone else's input though as I tend to just bodge and pray.

yep , one needs to be 101% sure when tinkerink with a psu 😁

Hello, this is my first post here!

Those capacitors are in series, so the circuit sees 1 capacitor with double voltage (200V+200V=400V) and half the total capacitance.

As a rule of thumb this total capacitance is approximately the maximum wattage the psu can do, as long as the psu is not ACTIVE PFC.

680uF: 300-350W max (depending on the psu design)

820uF: ~400W max

1000uF: 450-500W max

1200uF: 500-600W max

560uF: 300W max if the psu is well designed

470uF: 250W, maybe 300W peak for some seconds

Please pay attention, many capacitor manufacturers lie about the capacitance of those caps. Especially Deer/L&C/Premier/Allied/Force etc uses caps labeled 470uF for example, but their real C measured is 330uF!

If you replace 680uF with 820uF the only bad thing that would happen is that the inrush current will increase and that might stress the NTC input current thermistor. But I have done it many times in the past without any problem.

Welcome to Vogons, wave.

wave wrote:

Please pay attention, many capacitor manufacturers lie about the capacitance of those caps. Especially Deer/L&C/Premier/Allied/Force etc uses caps labeled 470uF for example, but their real C measured is 330uF!

^ This man speaks the truth!

wave wrote:

If you replace 680uF with 820uF the only bad thing that would happen is that the inrush current will increase and that might stress the NTC input current thermistor. But I have done it many times in the past without any problem.

Same here. Bulk caps of higher uF can handle more ripple, make the life of the main switchers easier, and increase the PSU hold-up time. The increase in inrush current, if it becomes a problem, can be kept at bay with a larger NTC thermistor.

Su'scon "470uF" pieces of crap replaced with 680uF Pannys, PSU works like a charm:

=>

Cheng "560uF" junk replaced with 800uF Pannys, PSU works like a charm:

=>

I just opened up a 12 year old 380W PSU.
It has never been opened for cleaning before, the "warrenty void" sticker was still in one piece.

I got the PSU with a high end socket 775 motherboard, CPU, memory and video card bundle so it seems the PSU has been hard at work up until very recently and I guess it has seen lots of different kind of hardware during its lifetime. I was expecting dust and bad caps but found only dust.

Can someone perhaps identify the PSU from this picture?

thanks for the info wave/TELVM 😁
I see now the deal on these caps, I'll try and get the same values as the original ones or replace both with 680uf ones, I found this sale here that looks ok: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-ELKO-NICHICON- … =item2edfc09411

Skyscraper wrote:

I just opened up a 12 year old 380W PSU. It has never been opened for cleaning before, the "warrenty void" sticker was still in […]
Show full quote

I just opened up a 12 year old 380W PSU.
It has never been opened for cleaning before, the "warrenty void" sticker was still in one piece.

I got the PSU with a high end socket 775 motherboard, CPU, memory and video card bundle so it seems the PSU has been hard at work up until very recently and I guess it has seen lots of different kind of hardware during its lifetime. I was expecting dust and bad caps but found only dust.

Can someone perhaps identify the PSU from this picture?

Topower?

I have a Tagan psu like that.

Tagan is correct 😀

Tagan TG380-U01 to be exact, probably the first Tagan model along with its big brother the TG480-U01.

Here are two more pictures 😀

topower is the OEM

Never buy caps from eBay. most of the time they are horrible fake s

Skyscraper wrote:

http://u.cubeupload.com/jonaz81a/Tagan380U01.jpg […]
Show full quote

^ Achtung, Fuhjyyus! 😵

wave wrote:

topower is the OEM

Never buy caps from eBay. most of the time they are horrible fake s

It seems like a nice unit, I have the 480W version aswell but after powering my gaming rig I used for playing World of Warcraft all too much, all too long it isnt as good as it used to be, I think it needs a recap.

This 380W unit with its 37 Amp 5V line is now powering a dual Pentium Pro system.

TELVM wrote:

^ Achtung, Fuhjyyus! 😵

Well perhaps thats why my 480W unit is flaky, I will have to look into that some day.

I will not mess with this unit at the moment as the voltages seem perfectly fine for now, even with the index finger caps 😀