BrAlZy wrote:Specs aren't finalized but I think I've got what I'm going to be building: […]
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Specs aren't finalized but I think I've got what I'm going to be building:
Hardware:
600mhz Slot 1 Pentium III
512mb PC-100 RAM
Matrox G400+ AGP
2x Voodoo2 PCI in SLI
AWE64 (CT4520)
Netgear FA310TX
3.5" 1.44mb Floppy Drive
CD-ROM Drive
Peripherals:
InterAct Hammerhead FX
I still need help finding a good keyboard and mouse from the 90s. I'm not looking for a Model M. The monitor will be a CRT but I don't have a specific model because I will buy one once I get paid. At that point in time I will then look for good CRTs. The case is the same thing. I will buy one when I get paid and ensure it has good ventilation. Is a 250w PSU enough to run this? If not, what wattage PSU should I get?
Let me know what you think of the parts I've chosen! Leave your opinions/suggestions down below!
I think your choices are good and you'll be happy with this system.
However, I would ask you to please double check the V3 3000 PCI situation. If you look at eBay history, they go for between ~$40 and ~$50. Yes, there are a couple of sellers currently thinking their old junk is made of gold, but they can be avoided. Patience is a critical key to this hobby. Be patient; you'll find what you want for a reasonable price.
There are pros and cons to the V3 3000 PCI vs V2 2000 SLI.
For the V3 3000 PCI scenario:
Pros: Better picture. Slightly better Performance. Cheaper. One slot instead of two.
Cons: Gotta set up dual HW profiles, which is a bit of a pain in the ass. You'll also need to use V.Control instead of the usual drivers, but I've never had a problem with it.
For the V2 2000 SLI scenario:
Pros: Easier to setup and work with. They're more "retro", and becoming a rarer item. More driver options. Better GLIDE compatibility.
Cons: More expensive. IQ reduction due to pass-thru cable signal degradation.
Alternative "fix" for the reduction in image quality: get a monitor with both VGA and DVI inputs. Primary video outputs DVI directly to monitor and V2 SLI outputs VGA directly to monitor. Use the monitor's controls to switch between DVI/VGA as appropriate for GLIDE games.
The Matrox G400 is a great video card, no doubt. However, I wouldn't choose it in this scenario. Its performance is similar to the V3 3000 and you've already decided to utilize V2 2000 cards in SLI which also provide a similar level of performance. For that level of expected performance and compatibility, it makes more sense to just use a single AGP V3 3000/3500 and conserve two PCI slots. The best choice is a GF4 Ti4200 to pair with your V2 SLI combo for maximum performance. Performance is about 300% better with the GF4 card vs the Matrox G400 or V3 3000. Also, of all the video cards we've discussed in this thread, the GF4 Ti4200 is probably the cheapest. There's really no "cons" to choosing one, only "pros". Beyond 1200mhz, you might consider a Ti4400, Ti4600, or FX card. For your situation, the GF4 Ti4200 and V2 SLI combo will provide you with maximum performance and compatibility.
AWE64 - any AWE64 is a good AWE64.
Yes, I know the above link makes the case that the AWE64 Gold is superior. However, the reason I provide the link is because that site has audio samples you can download for comparison. Personally, I can barely tell the difference between AWE64 Value and AWE64 Gold. If you can tell a difference and it bothers you, then you should definitely get the Gold variant. If you're an audiophile, you should seriously consider it.
Here's a bit of personal experience I can relate that may help you to solidify your choices:
Since about 2002/2003, I've insisted upon using high-powered Athlon 1400 and 2100+ CPUs for my retro systems. My biggest concerns were for games like European Air War and Red Baron 3D, both of which really kinda need a Win9x GLIDE system to run at their best. I first started playing them on my Pentium 200 MMX with a Voodoo 1. As time went on, mods for them became more advanced and I was sure that Athlon-level horsepower was needed.
Last year, I received back a PC that I built in late 1999: An ABIT BM6 with a Celeron 600, 384mb RAM, Voodoo 3 3000, and AWE64 Value. I wasn't quite sure what to do with it because the BM6 isn't as flexible as the BH6 and the best it can really do is a Celeron 600. I was afraid it wouldn't run half the stuff I like. After cleaning it up and getting it going, I was surprised to find that it performs just as well as my faster Athlon systems with games like EAW and RB3D.
You need to decide what you want your PC to do and then choose components appropriately. A 600mhz system with a V3 isn't going to run Deus Ex well no matter what. To me, that doesn't matter because Deus Ex runs just fine under WinXP. A legacy PC isn't really important for that one.
I suppose what I'm trying to say is this: you will be shocked at what a 600mhz CPU with Voodoo 3 3000 is capable of for games that have trouble under WinXP or newer operating systems. You will be even more shocked at what your system can do with a GF4 Ti4200 and V2 SLI combo. If you find that you still need more power, the BH6 is one of the most flexible boards ever made. Upgrading to a 1ghz Coppermine is simple. A Tualatin will need a slocket, but isn't a much more difficult upgrade. For games that need even more power, you're probably better off running them on a faster WinXP system anyway.
As time goes on, there are fewer and fewer games that truly need a legacy Win9x PC. EAW might be one of the very last, and even that can usually be resolved with the newer community-based mods. DOSBox has rendered the concept of a legacy DOS PC almost completely irrelevant. What's left? Black & White? Final Fantasy? Sanitarium? Splinter Cell?
Anyways...
A 250W PSU will be sufficient, depending on its specs. For comparison, I have an old IBM NetVista running an Intel i815E motherboard with a 1ghz Coppermine and V3 3000 AGP. At worst, it uses 90W with both the CPU and GPU at full burn. I also tested it with a GF3 Ti500 and it never went above 110W. With a GF4 Ti4200, I would expect 125W to be the maximum draw. I still recommend the Antec BP350 as a great choice. If you're gonna run an Athlon you need to worry about having more amps on the +5V rail, but you're not planning on running an Athlon.
For mice, I still recommend the Logitech M-BJ58 or SBF-96. If you don't like the Model M but still want a real period-correct item, maybe consider a Microsoft Natural keyboard? I see them occasionally at Goodwill for about $3. They're easily cleaned and last a really long time. Otherwise, just get whatever cheap PS/2 keyboard feels good.
InterAct Hammerhead FX
I once saw one of these at Goodwill and I almost bought it simply because it had the 3dfx logo on it. I remember they got less-than-wonderful reviews, so I passed on it. The original Sony Dual Shock or Dual Shock 2 is probably the best gamepad ever made. Get a Win9x-compatible USB adapter for it and don't look back. The Logitech Precision is also a great choice, but lacks analog sticks. Either way, JoyToKey is what you need to make any controller work great.
I'm really looking forward to hearing about your final choices and seeing pics of your build. I think you're going to have a great time with this project. Everybody here has such different ideas and creative designs, so I hope you'll share yours when it's complete.