Of course it's worth it, power supplies like that are fine for older retro systems.

I recently replaced bulged capacitors in a L&C 450W and a 330W Antec that I bought second hand. I reckon most older PSU's
around the 15 year old mark will need some caps replaced.
You may have to remove a few of those capacitors at a time as they look like they glued together at the top. You can try to
prise the glue off, but if you damage any of them You will have to replace them.

There are plenty of guides on Youtube about soldering, replacing caps, etc.

by worth it I meant more does the unit look like it could be a quality unit by recapping it.

It looks more complete than a gutless wonder. Sometimes vendors will rebadge adequate power supplies with a bogus power rating. To know for sure, we would need to determine the current carrying capacity of the bridge rectifier, switching transistors, and main transformer. Also, it's difficult to inventory the components of the input filter based on the above photos.

Those caps should all be replaced, though. Fujhyyu (aka F-You) caps are absolute trash.

gdjacobs wrote:

It looks more complete than a gutless wonder. Sometimes vendors will rebadge adequate power supplies with a bogus power rating. To know for sure, we would need to determine the current carrying capacity of the bridge rectifier, switching transistors, and main transformer. Also, it's difficult to inventory the components of the input filter based on the above photos.

Those caps should all be replaced, though. Fujhyyu (aka F-You) caps are absolute trash.

So disassemble and take more pictures?

And I know about the gutless wonders, right now the system is using a Logysis 430W which on the little label says 320W normal in tiny tiny print, it also weigh's less a mouse pad.

What kind of Caps should I order for this, brand wise. This will be the first time I've ever recapped anything, my experince prior is with replacing the DC Jacks on laptops so I hope its similar.

Plenty of tutorials on Youtube for replacing caps in computer power supplies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhtucOTQVdU

Your PSU looks like a typical early to mid 2000's unit for an average system, just don't try running it on a heavy duty
game system or with a Prescott cpu and Nvidia 78xx or ATI X800 series video cards and higher.

candle_86 wrote:

So disassemble and take more pictures?

Nah. You might be able to get a better angle on the input filter which will tell you how well downstream equipment is protected from line voltage transients. If you want to try to read the silk screening on the mosfets, the bridge, and the transformer, we'll be able to determine the true power capability of the supply. If you're going to use the supply very conservatively, you don't have to have this level of concern.

candle_86 wrote:

And I know about the gutless wonders, right now the system is using a Logysis 430W which on the little label says 320W normal in tiny tiny print, it also weigh's less a mouse pad.

What kind of Caps should I order for this, brand wise. This will be the first time I've ever recapped anything, my experince prior is with replacing the DC Jacks on laptops so I hope its similar.

Panasonic, Nippon Chemi Con, Rubycon, Nichicon, Suncon (Sanyo). All top tier.

I would suggest posting this in the PSU thread, as it is more likely to be noticed by the forum PSU guru's 😀

Imperious wrote:

Plenty of tutorials on Youtube for replacing caps in computer power supplies. […]
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Plenty of tutorials on Youtube for replacing caps in computer power supplies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhtucOTQVdU

Your PSU looks like a typical early to mid 2000's unit for an average system, just don't try running it on a heavy duty
game system or with a Prescott cpu and Nvidia 78xx or ATI X800 series video cards and higher.

it will power an XP 2500, FX 5900