doesn't k/lock on the front panel have wires running to the motherboard? (similar to power button, turbo, etc)
I would try fiddling with those (making a connection between the two pins, or unplugging the cables) just to see if it can be bypassed easily.

Been looking for spare keys for this type of lock without much success. Old cases always come without them 😒

Beegle wrote:

doesn't k/lock on the front panel have wires running to the motherboard? (similar to power button, turbo, etc)
I would try fiddling with those (making a connection between the two pins, or unplugging the cables) just to see if it can be bypassed easily.

Been looking for spare keys for this type of lock without much success. Old cases always come without them 😒

There is a 2-wire connector that says power led / key lock, but that's all I see besides the power sw, turbo sw, etc.

So, does unplugging that connector not solve the problem?

Jorpho wrote:

So, does unplugging that connector not solve the problem?

Thought it would be a quick win - no such luck in this case.

with the machine powered on, try unplugging it, if the lock complete's the circuit unplugging it while its one would break the circuit. I can't see one of these working by breaking the circuit when its in the on position or it would be required to use the board.

If unplugging the lock connector from the motherboard gives you a "keyboard is locked", just disconnect the lock and put a jumper on those 2 pins.

I wonder if these locks were in fact keyed, or if you could just pick up any similar key (with the matching diameter) and it'd work.
Like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311522147769

firage wrote:

I wonder if these locks were in fact keyed, or if you could just pick up any similar key and it'd work.
Like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311522147769

I can't say this is true for ALL keyboard lock switches, but from my experiences a good number of them use the same key. I recall once using a key from one AT case on another just fine. Also, my first custom build used a hardware boot selector switch consisting of two keyboard lock switches harvested from a couple different AT cases. They both worked using the same key, which had come from a third system.

In fact, a lot of locks of that style seem to all use the same key, not just keyboard locks. I've been using one of the keys from my childhood 486 system to unlock the hard drive caddie on a security camera DVR. 🤣

If removing the cables did not help then jumper the keylock pins and it will work

So I found a random key and it definitely fit - I was able to turn the lock to the unlock position. Unfortunately, this had no effect on the issue - same problem. I took the whole board out and noticed there was some pretty nasty corrosion around the barrel battery (next to the din-5 connector), so I de-soldered it, and used a toothbrush with some vinegar to (somewhat) clean the affected areas. STILL no dice. Any other thoughts? Might the board just be toast (a shame)?

keropi wrote:

If removing the cables did not help then jumper the keylock pins and it will work

I'll give this a shot and report back (sorry, posted pix before I saw this response).

Artex wrote:

keropi wrote:

If removing the cables did not help then jumper the keylock pins and it will work

I'll give this a shot and report back (sorry, posted pix before I saw this response).

that's what I meant by "making a connection" or "removing the wire" but I should have mentioned the jumper, if the pins for Power LED/ K/lock are side by side.

indeed, if breaking the connection doesn't fix it, making one should.

Also, nice fix on the battery.
I doubt the motherboard would be toast if you went far enough with it already, to have the video card showing you text on the screen (the keyboard locked error message).

If the keyboard lock problem isn't fixed, send more info on the board + a picture of the place where all the front panel connectors are plugged.

Keyboard controller area is corroded, and there is some corrosion left. You'd need to go hunting for open traces and vias.
So you did not wash the vinegar off with water?

konc wrote:

If unplugging the lock connector from the motherboard gives you a "keyboard is locked", just disconnect the lock and put a jumper on those 2 pins.

keropi wrote:

If removing the cables did not help then jumper the keylock pins and it will work

hmmm... I think I like the way you're thinking 😉

Tried the jumper - no dice

🙁

http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/manuals/Mylex … ers%20Guide.pdf
says that the cable must be connected the right way, so its not a simple on/off thing

No sane board locks the keyboard when the keylock is not connected.
You have damaged traces. Check there. Start with the one that runs through the ext bat connector.

Hmm.. This may well go beyond my level of expertise. I have to admit - I wouldn't know where to begin with repairing traces without some proper guidance (and a less shaky hand).

Try to pull the keyboard controller (HT6542) from its socket and check for corrosion.
For repairing traces you will at least need a multimeter and soldering equipment.