appiah4 wrote:

CkRtech wrote:

appiah4 wrote:

Found a Diamond MX300 Aureal Vortex 2 PCI for $15 not sure if worrh it though..

Tear the SBLive out of your 1998 machine, throw it away, and put in the MX300.

Well.. ok but why?

The Vortex cards allow you to use A3D audio which is really nice. Better than EAX from creative, and the two aren't compatible. Plus, how cool is it to say you've got a monster audio sound card in your rig.

^ imho telling you've got a Quadzilla is even cooler though

xplus93 wrote:

appiah4 wrote:

Well.. ok but why?

The Vortex cards allow you to use A3D audio which is really nice. Better than EAX from creative, and the two aren't compatible. Plus, how cool is it to say you've got a monster audio sound card in your rig.

Does it support sf2 soundfonts for GM in games like the Live!

CkRtech wrote:

Deksor wrote:

@Predator99

I wonder if that card could be fixed, maybe the traces aren't damaged too badly and all it would need would be a good cleaning ?

It looks like it could be quite a challenge - he could clean the corrosion and rust off and see what is still left underneath...

Hehe yes sure I will try and already made some cleaning and it looks much better now. However no idea how to get rid of the remaing parts. Tried vinegar, water with detergent, alcohol, benzine...and put the outer parts in an ultrasonic batch. Nothing to loose here 😉

Gave it a try...as expected it is not detected.

Traces does not seem to look this bad. However, at least one resistor is missing and most of the caps also seem to be destroyed.

Good news: The OPL2 card survived the cleaning procedure and is running 😀

xplus93 wrote:

The Vortex cards allow you to use A3D audio which is really nice. Better than EAX from creative, and the two aren't compatible. Plus, how cool is it to say you've got a monster audio sound card in your rig.

A3D is a gimmick. At least the SBLive has a passable midi synth - the vortex cards... not so much.

Predator99 wrote:

Hehe yes sure I will try and already made some cleaning and it looks much better now. However no idea how to get rid of the rema […]
Show full quote

CkRtech wrote:

Deksor wrote:

@Predator99

I wonder if that card could be fixed, maybe the traces aren't damaged too badly and all it would need would be a good cleaning ?

It looks like it could be quite a challenge - he could clean the corrosion and rust off and see what is still left underneath...

Hehe yes sure I will try and already made some cleaning and it looks much better now. However no idea how to get rid of the remaing parts. Tried vinegar, water with detergent, alcohol, benzine...and put the outer parts in an ultrasonic batch. Nothing to loose here 😉

IMG_9990r.jpg

IMG_9991r.JPG

Gave it a try...as expected it is not detected.

Traces does not seem to look this bad. However, at least one resistor is missing and most of the caps also seem to be destroyed.

IMG_9994r.jpg

IMG_9997r.jpg

Good news: The OPL2 card survived the cleaning procedure and is running 😀

Go to an auto parts store and buy some battery acid (might be sold as "car battery electrolyte") and some WD40 Contact Cleaner (not the blue can, the silver one). using a toothbrush and the battery acid, scrub the rust and oxide off the card. Don't let the acid stay on the card too long. Put some on, rub with toothbrush and rinse it off using the WD40 contact cleaner.

The battery acid (H2SO4 20% solution) inactivates the rust and the WD40 contact cleaner cleans off what's left, as well as the white acid salt deposits.

If battery electrolyte is not sold in your country get a hold of an old car battery and crack it open 😀 - or see if you can get some vitriol (H2SO4) or nitric acid (HNO3) solution from a pharmacy. Make sure they are diluted (20% for the vitriol, 10% for the nitric acid) or it will start to eat trought the copper. And use gloves.

luckybob wrote:

@xjas

the ls-120 drive will be IDE. The dongle is a "standard" usb>ide adapter, with a special connector.

Oh cool, I'll open it up and see if I can "break out" a standard 40-pin interface in that case. I did find this pic on another site which I guess illustrates what I'm dealing with.

dexvx wrote:

And they're gone. Yes, if you snipe eBay auctions you can get a lot of stuff for cheap, doesn't mean thats the going rate. Also, my Asus V6800 filter might be broken. 2nd time one has gotten away where it doesn't even show up.

The last did show up with mine. And you say sniping but that doesn't explain why my GeForce 256 which was described as such was up for sale for more then a month with plenty of viewers.
I still need to check other oem cards but 3 different oem cards gave results of 20-40 not 80-100 as claimed here. The 64 mb versions could maybe be sold for those prices but unlikely imo.

Everyone are looking for a DDR version of GeForce 256. SDR not so much.

The Serpent Rider wrote:

Everyone are looking for a DDR version of GeForce 256. SDR not so much.

The SDR version seems to be rarer, though.

Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

The Serpent Rider wrote:

Everyone are looking for a DDR version of GeForce 256. SDR not so much.

The SDR version seems to be rarer, though.

That's all I see on ebay though. except for the two asus ones and the hercules one in the box.

xplus93 wrote:

Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

The Serpent Rider wrote:

Everyone are looking for a DDR version of GeForce 256. SDR not so much.

The SDR version seems to be rarer, though.

That's all I see on ebay though. except for the two asus ones and the hercules one in the box.

I only found the SDR version on ebay and the only Geforce 256 card i got is the SDR one

Got a nice Fujitsu Server board. With 2 PPros. How much gold is in these? 😉

How much gold is in these?

Less than a gram.

Today was a good day.

I got a g400 max, voodoo1 and cross over cable, a 440lx AT motherboard 400 mhz celeron and a Promise ATA133 card.

The Serpent Rider wrote:

How much gold is in these?

Less than a gram.

Even less after recovery, I scrap dead hardware. gold recovery is a joke your never make money on your own.

Jade Falcon wrote:

Today was a good day.

I got a g400 max, voodoo1 and cross over cable, a 440lx AT motherboard 400 mhz celeron and a Promise ATA133 card.

Less than a gram.

Nice. Voodoos somehow elude me.
Was just joking, I'd never consider scrapping PPros. Hopefully it works. Seems tó be pretty standard EATX.

Good to hear it was a joke.

You should never scrap old parts that are fixable or working.
Ether way only way to make money on gold recovery is if you really got you stuff in line and work on a big scale. Then you have to refine the gold. At the end of the day your not making much. I'll say it again and again, to make money with gold recovery and PC parts you have to go full sale commercial.

Got an Aztech Sound Galaxy WaveRider Pro 32-3D (non-PnP) AZT2316R about a week ago, installed new jacks since the ones that were on there went bad, and it has issues with the left speaker having lower volume than the right speaker. I removed the two caps that connect to the Amp IC, no luck, and MS-DOS seems to reset the values of the sound volume when I have the volume for the left speaker maxed out, and the right speaker volume 6 lower than the left channel after running Doom. I'm planning on making a probe to see what the issue is, and try to fix it. All of the traces are intact, so that's not the issue, but I did see some parts on the PCB that are either missing, or scraped off somehow.

kanecvr wrote:

Go to an auto parts store and buy some battery acid (might be sold as "car battery electrolyte") and some WD40 Contact Cleaner (not the blue can, the silver one). using a toothbrush and the battery acid, scrub the rust and oxide off the card. Don't let the acid stay on the card too long. Put some on, rub with toothbrush and rinse it off using the WD40 contact cleaner.

The battery acid (H2SO4 20% solution) inactivates the rust and the WD40 contact cleaner cleans off what's left, as well as the white acid salt deposits.

If battery electrolyte is not sold in your country get a hold of an old car battery and crack it open 😀 - or see if you can get some vitriol (H2SO4) or nitric acid (HNO3) solution from a pharmacy. Make sure they are diluted (20% for the vitriol, 10% for the nitric acid) or it will start to eat trought the copper. And use gloves.

Thanks for your advice...I think its a good idea to try a stronger acid. I have ordered some chemicals and will report 😉
Maybe it is also possible to dissolve only the solder and not the copper? Removing the corroded solder is really a pain with my cheap soldering iron...

A Dell Quietkey keyboard, more notably the RT7D5JTW variant. I've had a bunch of these I got for free but they were the non-RT7D5JTW variants. Generic rubber dome but I've read the RT7D5JTW is far better. Let's see how it is.