Horun wrote on 2020-03-14, 23:26:

flupke11 wrote on 2020-03-14, 21:25:

As a complete soldering amateur, I could not get all the solder out of the holes, I made my own minidrill from a fine screw driver. It's probably not the proper way to remove solder, but unorthodoxy is not a sin in my religion.

Nice ! Good thinking and I may try that method too.

It's extremely easy to damage the copper plating or annular ring of the through hole with a drill bit. I'd highly advise against it, else you could cause an unintended open circuit. It is very risky on multilayer boards. It is far safer (and actually easier) just to use a solder sucker.

Jed118 wrote on 2020-03-14, 06:33:

VIGOROUS heat gun application to remove the old socket from the board!

You over did it with the heat gun. Some of the traces on the green side of the PCB are visibly deformed due to excessive heat. Next time you shold use soldering station with copper wire or desoldering station to remove the socket. Just and advice 😀

Turbo -> wrote on 2020-03-15, 11:06:

Jed118 wrote on 2020-03-14, 06:33:

VIGOROUS heat gun application to remove the old socket from the board!

You over did it with the heat gun. Some of the traces on the green side of the PCB are visibly deformed due to excessive heat. Next time you shold use soldering station with copper wire or desoldering station to remove the socket. Just and advice 😀

Oh yes, I know that! I needed a stun setting, I used kill. Fortunately the device survived. Next time I will use the lower setting, and/or soldering pump.

This is why I don't use heat guns on motherboards - this particular set of speakers was in unknown condition (and continues to have issues, unrelated to this) so at the end of it, if it works, awesome. If not, binned.

I used pin vise to hold jeweller's drill, NOT with a electric drill. And drilled by hand, making sure it is 90 degrees from horizontal plane, and centered, the drill is smaller than the through hole and just large enough for the new capacitor leads to pass through.

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

Vegge wrote on 2020-03-14, 20:34:

I took a break from the machines on two wheels to fix some machines. So over a few days I have repaired and cleaned two Amiga 50 […]
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I took a break from the machines on two wheels to fix some machines. So over a few days I have repaired and cleaned two Amiga 500s, one regular and one plusmodel.
VartakillerIMG_4321.JPG
SavedIMG_4997.JPG
And this morning I replaced a RAM-chip on an early VIC-20, and then the same fix on an C64 breadbin. But sadly the SID-chip is dead on the C64.

And while the iron was hot I also soldered up an Pi1541 to try out.
IMG_4998.JPG
IMG_5001.JPG
Almost forgot. Some time ago I cleaned up this PC 10-III. I don't have any keyboard to try it out, but someday.
IMG_4849.JPG

It's nice to lighten the mind and clearing up some space since these machines has been lying in parts all over the place.

Sweet....
Regarding the SID. Then you can always find one on eBay. The question are only, if it is worth it.
Else you can get an FPGA-SID or you can get the cheaper and not so good SwinSID-Nano.

wiretap wrote on 2020-03-15, 10:57:

It's extremely easy to damage the copper plating or annular ring of the through hole with a drill bit. I'd highly advise against it, else you could cause an unintended open circuit. It is very risky on multilayer boards. It is far safer (and actually easier) just to use a solder sucker.

Do not underestimate my lack of abilities. I tried the solder sucker, but it is clear I need more time to practice my repair skills.
Of all the holes I drilled, only one annular ring visibly got damaged. It is too crude a way, I concur, but lack of time (and skills) makes sloppy work.

I still need to test the board thoroughly before any assessment of possible damage can be drawn.

H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

brownk wrote on 2020-03-15, 23:38:

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point. […]
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H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

I added small heatsinks to many parts like that on different boards just because they did run hotter than expected. Better safe than early failure 😁

brostenen wrote on 2020-03-15, 20:45:

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

C64-KeyboardFix-01.jpg
C64-KeyboardFix-02.jpg

Aaaah! Nice! I've had numerous VIC-20s' plastic mounting poles turn to dust so this is an interesting solution.

Horun wrote on 2020-03-16, 01:48:

I added small heatsinks to many parts like that on different boards just because they did run hotter than expected. Better safe than early failure 😁

Same here. Better safe than sorry. 😉

Fixed a Soyo SY-6BA motherboard today, was having issues. Then went on to test some older SCSI HD's and found one in the stack with NW5 beta from 1997. Drive works great and thought would share some pics. At one time in late 90's we ran Netware but thought all the old drives were long gone. Flash from the past: IBM WDS-3200 200Mb scsi drive:

brownk wrote on 2020-03-15, 23:38:

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point. […]
Show full quote

H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

Thanks for clarifying, it makes sense now 😀

H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-16, 06:34:

Thanks for clarifying, it makes sense now 😀

Actually, I owe you a thank you; I now can be sure my initial conjecture wasn't all that faulty.

😀

liqmat wrote on 2020-03-16, 01:57:

brostenen wrote on 2020-03-15, 20:45:

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

C64-KeyboardFix-01.jpg
C64-KeyboardFix-02.jpg

Aaaah! Nice! I've had numerous VIC-20s' plastic mounting poles turn to dust so this is an interesting solution.

Thanks.
I have done the three ones in advance, that are those you that holds the case together. When the epoxy are hardened, i will use the plastic that I cut off, to make a thick plastic cement. For that I will dissolve the plastic in a tiny bit of acetone. Then coat the standoffs with it, to strenghten it even further.

A few days ago, fixed an IBM Aptiva 486 mainboard (with a proprietary power supply connector in addition to the standard AT plug) to boot again using an ATX power supply (+ ATX-to-AT converter) thanks to this useful Vogons thread: Re: IBM pc 330 450dx2 PSU questions (including pics)

Got a copy of MS-DOS 6.22, as well as a mail-in order copy of Lemmings 2, and a USB floppy drive for backing up floppy disk files (so I can use them in a floppy drive emulator I have installed in one of my old computers.

Additionally bought an Aureal Vortex 2 card for an old computer I have laying around.

Successfully configured newer MHz Turbo display holding reset button for a while, as instructed by the last post from this threat: MHz display pins

I really hated this display, because I never took enough time to research how to configure it. Now I like it the most, due to it's convenientiality (no jumpers whatsoever).

Well, I managed to get my Dreamcast up to almost modern standards. All I need is to add an unnecessary for me HDMI mod somewhere in there.

I found out the mother of all my retro issues.
This post is a [case study] for other people. I found some similar issues on the web, but nothing helped me. It's about yellow warnings in the Device Manager, regarding IDE controllers.

I have a lot of PC builds. I love to build them, think about the best parts to use, configure all the things. But often I had an issue: CD-ROM drive just didn't worked after fresh installation of Windows 95. And Windows 98.
I started to browse the web and found the solution. I found that I should open regedit and find and remove NOIDE entry. But I haven't got one.
Then I found that it may be because I need to install Intel PIIX drivers. I thought: ok, but I think Windows have it... But anyway I decided to install them. 🙈After that, my Device Manager looked like a big yellow sign. And I still ended with non-working CD drive.
I booted the W95 in safe mode, received some strange overreacted alert from Windows that 'boot record has been modified, in computer may be a virus'. Yeah, I've just installed the Windows, that's why it's modified. I removed all the drivers regarding IDE controllers, then booted to normal mode. It started to install all the drivers again but I still had this same issue.

I thought that's because the version of the Windows I had on original OEM discs (OSR2.1). I decided to just burn CD-R with other Windows 95 .iso found on the web. It doesn't helped. So for the first case I decided to do another trick: I've installed DOS 6.22, DOS CD-ROM drivers and THEN the Windows 95. Wow, I finally can use CD-ROM drive. But when I opened the Device Manager, I found that there's still some warnings and driver issues. But I don't give a sh*t - I had CD-ROM working on my lovely Pentium 166MMX. 😎

Some days later I built another monster with PII 300MHz. This time, with Windows 98se. And again: yellow warnings in the Device Manager, issues with IDE controllers, no CD drive working. What the hell.
I found out quickly that the original OEM CD doesn't boot the installer. I needed to use the floppy boot disc. It's something different than I remember: 10 years ago, my CD-R definitely booted the installer and it was totally painless. I decided to found the .iso on the web, burn it and try again. Maybe I have broken builds of Windows?
The new CD-R with Windows has booted the installer flawlessly without the floppy. And this time... wow, there wasn't any yellow signs or driver issues. Yeah, so it was definitely issue with the Windows CD. Mystery solved.

I used this burned Windows 98se CD for few builds in the meantime. Everything worked fine.

But this day has come: I needed to install Windows 95 again. 😒I remembered how painful experience it was but I decided to NOT install the DOS 6.22 at first. Maybe before it was some motherboard issue. Or IDE controller was broken on the board. Who cares.

Nope, I just had this same warnings again. And CD-ROM refused to work just after install. And the installer asked me for drivers. And I don't had possibility to load the drivers from CD, because Windows hasn't seen the drive. So I need to go do DOS, install the CD-ROM drivers and then... WTF. No way. I installed W95 a lot as a kid and it wasn't happened. It was not that painful. How possible is that I have second faulty motherboard or controller?

Remember the alert from the safe mode? This one about the boot record and virus. I totally downplayed that. Virus? I installed everything from the original mediums: floppy and CD. It can't be possible...
Anyway, who cares, after all this adventures I had I just decided to boot the popular Polish antivirus from the 90's - mks_vir. It fits on just one floppy and I just had it from the pile of floppies I bought.

Boom, virus has been found in RAM. Then this same virus has been found on the HDD. Then this same virus has been found on the floppy with mks_vir. 🤣.
Bingo. I decided to check the original Windows 98 boot disk floppy. Boom. Infected. It wasn't boot-protected at all. It came from the pile of floppies I bought.

So all the builds I had and I used some floppies on them were infected.

I forgot how virus has called. It's something like NOCMOS or REMOVECMOS or RESETBIOS. It was described by mks_vir antivirus as a trojan.

After I removed the virus by the mks_vir, it just started to work without issues.
Now I need to remove virus from ALL the builds I have, then I need to remove this virus from the floppies I use.

That was my painful story. 😁

TL;DR
1. Trust Windows alerts from time to time, especially about viruses
2. Check the floppies/CDs - they can ruin your Best Build In The World®
3. When you have drivers issues without reason, it really can be a virus

Thanks for reading!