Curiously, it seems to have higher current rating there... which is the opposite of what common sense would suggest, on the 250/250 one. The 125/250 one seems to have the same current rating, which, again, is... interesting.
Tali wrote on 2020-05-25, 14:20:Curiously, it seems to have higher current rating there... which is the opposite of what common sense would suggest, on the 250/250 one. The 125/250 one seems to have the same current rating, which, again, is... interesting.
I highly recommend going with what the service manual says. PCB stencils can sometimes be wrong.
After more digging, couldn't find a service manual. Did find an EU NS5R, and that gave me a hint. It's not 1200, rather T200mA. And the top fuse is indeed T1.6A.
Tali wrote on 2020-05-25, 15:05:After more digging, couldn't find a service manual. Did find an EU NS5R, and that gave me a hint. It's not 1200, rather T200mA. And the top fuse is indeed T1.6A.
That makes a lot more sense, especially the T200 vs 1200. Any rating of 1000mA or more is written out in amperes, not milliamperes.
Well, I've ordered the fuses. I know I'm not to entirely trust what's printed, but the existing fuses do match the silkscreen. Furthermore, what struck me as "curious" is that the EU version (I've only found pics of NS) also has slow blow fuses (as in "T"), but, for some reason, those are of lower values than the ones on NX. Perhaps, it was meant to account for presence of a daughterboard, but then, with NS, one would be expect to put stronger fuses in when installing one? I'm confused... but the main takeaway is that, at least as far as current fuses go, silkscreen doesn't lie.
Again, thanks for pointing this out to me. I know it would run just fine as it is now, but that's not why we have fuses, right? It's like riding at motorbike speeds with a helmet for cyclists.
Tali wrote on 2020-05-25, 15:37:Well, I've ordered the fuses. I know I'm not to entirely trust what's printed, but the existing fuses do match the silkscreen. Furthermore, what struck me as "curious" is that the EU version (I've only found pics of NS) also has slow blow fuses (as in "T"), but, for some reason, those are of lower values than the ones on NX. Perhaps, it was meant to account for presence of a daughterboard, but then, with NS, one would be expect to put stronger fuses in when installing one? I'm confused... but the main takeaway is that, at least as far as current fuses go, silkscreen doesn't lie.
Again, thanks for pointing this out to me. I know it would run just fine as it is now, but that's not why we have fuses, right? It's like riding at motorbike speeds with a helmet for cyclists.
Glad I could help! I've been fixing synthesizers and other studio gear for 20 years, and this is a common thing to overlook. Better safe than sorry.
T is for the speed rating at which it will blow.
T=Träge=Slow
F=Flink=Fast
T will handle peak inrush current like from power supplies when they do the initial charging of the capacitors. F will blow directly. Replace T with T and F with F.
More on this:
https://www.swe-check.com.au/pages/learn_fuse_speed.php
Tali wrote on 2020-05-25, 07:03:Well, trust is a relative term. I know what I ordered, but I can't tell if what I'll receive is going to be exactly that (are there fake capacitor makers?)...
Aaaah... you opened a can of worms here:
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/23 … feit-capacitor/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/warnin … olytic-on-ebay-!!/
https://community.ebay.com/t5/Electronics/BEW … Y/td-p/29071047
A simple copied sleeve is not enough for some of these guys. Anything for profit.
Now that is just the counterfeit ones. There is a whole different story with many of the Chinese "brands" as a result of this little piece of history:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Would luck have it, or is it fate making fun out of my sorry flipside, but those caps have actually arrived. And they even seem to look the part. That said, I'm not touching those with a ten foot pole after what you posted, since they were eBayed. I've ordered some more, this time from a local and rather reputable shop (this is supposed to be quick).
Some gentleman in Germany was also selling a Radeon X1800XT, master card at that. I figured that's just perfect for a P4 670, they even share the same release year. Now I just need to hunt down a "normal" card to go with it, and a dongle (I've found some still in stores, but those prices are amoral). I'm also still looking for a proper cooler for P3.
In the mean time, I've got a few P3/P4 era cases that I have no intention of ultimately using, but they would more than suffice as a temporary solution for "pre-building" systems. So P4 will go in one the moment CPU arrives, and the second one will likely serve P3 for now.
Feel free to post detailed pictures of those caps. They might be legit after all. Unless they were strangely low in price that is.
Well, here you go.
And the price was 5 bucks with shipping, with half that being shipping. So I'm skeptical.
Erm yeah.
evasive wrote on 2020-05-26, 13:44:Erm yeah.
I take it, that's a "no no", as in "avoid like the plague"?
Tali wrote on 2020-05-26, 13:47:evasive wrote on 2020-05-26, 13:44:Erm yeah.
I take it, that's a "no no", as in "avoid like the plague"?
Nichicon are high quality capacitors. Also Rubycon and Panasonic are excellent.
evasive wrote on 2020-05-26, 13:44:Erm yeah.
What do you have against Nichicon? They're top quality capacitors.
That much I know. What I wonder is if these are really Nichicon...
It's like in that Russian swear joke that I'll try to translate: "Lies everywhere. There's a d-word written on a fence, but look behind it, and it's just firewood"
Tali wrote on 2020-05-26, 14:56:That much I know. What I wonder is if these are really Nichicon...
It's like in that Russian swear joke that I'll try to translate: "Lies everywhere. There's a d-word written on a fence, but look behind it, and it's just firewood"
Ah, I see. I only buy from Mouser/DigiKey, that way I know my parts are legit.
starcube wrote on 2020-05-26, 14:55:evasive wrote on 2020-05-26, 13:44:Erm yeah.
What do you have against Nichicon? They're top quality capacitors.
Nothing. I see slight inconsistencies in sleeving and bottom + low price = usually trouble.
The vents are correct, but are Nichicon VR even a current series or have they been entirely superseded by the UVR family?
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
I'm more concerned about the bottom... "plug"? ... anyway, it doesn't look like what Nichicon uses for most modern capacitors of similar size (at least, the ones I could get pictures of). In any case, I should get the "proper ones" by Monday, and we can do a comparison.
Anyway, a few more things arrived these days, including a NIC for Seer, a BD-RE for Sorceress, and a tiny addition to my other addiction.
Furthermore, my very first boxed OS is here. Now, over the years I've had all kinds of licenses for Windows, including academic from DreamSpark, online, upgrade, and even sometimes... (cough 90's cough)
But now I wish to acquire boxed retail versions of every OS I use in my builds. And this is the first one (another is also on the way, but let's keep the suspense, I'm not telling which). This one is for the Emperor (it's already installed, as the seller kindly provided me with the key before shipping the physical box, so technically I was a pirate for a week).
