VOGONS


First post, by joebelter@hotmail.co

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Well, live and learn I guess.
I searched EVERYWHERE on the web for instructions on how to desolder the DIP sockets from my 286 board but couldn't find anything.
There were TONS of info about removing the DIP CHIPS but not the sockets, so I tried to follow the same instructions.

1st I reflowed all the joints on the back of the board to start fresh.
Then I carefully removed the solder from the back of the board with my Hakko 301 and it seemed to get all the solder from the holes.
I moved each pin till it looked like it was free with a tiny screwdriver, but although the pin seemed to move back and forth a little, I could see it really wasn't free.
I made sure the pins were STRAIGHT!
I then used some flux and did a once over to see if I could remove more solder I hadn't seen. I did this like 5 times.
The holes "looked" clean but the DIP socket was like GLUED to the board.
I then tried to used my heat gun and heat up the area carefully and see if I could pull on the chip with a pair of pliers.
Nothing. Then I had the STUPID idea to cut off the legs and try to push the DIP chip leg out of the hole that way.
I went through and tried to unsolder manually each hole once more, pushing into the hole with a small tip on my soldering iron.
No change. STUCK to the board.
I ended up carefully cutting up the socket with my Dremel so I could try and get the pins out individually.
That didn't go well, as I couldn't get the socket parts apart to individual level of pins.
I ended up wiggling out the parts and finally the socket was gone.
BUT I was left with TINY pieces of socket legs in the holes!
I tried for HOURS to carefully unsolder those holes - used lots of flux, even reflowed each hole and tried over again.
In the end, I still have like 3 holes with tiny legs in them, and like 6 were I wore OFF the SOLDER around the VIA (hole) on the back and front.
So - there's got to be an easier way to do this that works. I've done chips, and they just fall off!
Now my 286 is just a learning experience.
Bummer!!! Worst 5 hours I've had in a long time!
Joe

Reply 1 of 7, by Aui

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I can relate. A lot of Y. videos make this process look way too easy. You seem to already have an advanced set of tools so thats good. Especially very old joints are sometimes very tough. Since you now have removed the socket - what about cleaning it with solder wick ? Please post some high res pictures (once the frustration has settled down) and perhaps also share why you would need the socket.

Reply 2 of 7, by joebelter@hotmail.co

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Thanks for replying!
I’ll do that. I had to replace it because a Varta battery barfed and the pins in the socket were green and one looked corroded through.
I’ll get to shooting some close ups here soon.
Be gentle with me, I’m new to this…
But I WAS very slow, patient and careful.
I tried to wick it after I was all done, but I’m willing to try anything at this point since it’s probably a brick anyway.
I DID see some cool videos on actually replacing or making the hole VIA again, but not sure how well that would work if one of my holes has the silver ring gone on both sides.
Again, MUCH thanks for taking the time to respond, I’ve not gotten a lot of responses form a lot of people and places.
Joe

Reply 3 of 7, by joebelter@hotmail.co

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Ok, Here's the high rez.
Once again, after using the flux and going over it, I don't understand why the little pieces don't just fall out.
They must cool so fast that they can't travel the 2mm to get through the board or something!
At any rate, you can see the VIA's that are killed, and the little pieces still in the holes and there's NO solder in there that I can get out??

Thanks for ANYONE's HELP!
Joe

Reply 4 of 7, by analog_programmer

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Next time don't use any excessive push force on desoldering "gun" tip against the PCB! On the pictures I can clearly see the marks left on the solder mask by the hot desoldering tip pushed against the PCB. And use a hot air "gun" while you're using the desoldering station, if just the heat from desoldering station is not enough to clear the tin from the through-holes (vias). Also use a hot air "gun" to preheat that area of the PCB where the desoldering job has to be done, before you start using your desoldering "gun".

I've marked some traces, which appear to me to be broken (and need restoration by soldering of thin wire) at first glance. Better off check all of the traces in this area with multimeter in continuity ("beep") mode:

The attachment socket top damage small.jpg is no longer available
The attachment socket bottom damage small.jpg is no longer available

Don't throw away the board yet. These problems and damages seem to be fixable.

P.S. Most of the damaged and missing through-hole (via) "rings" are not connected to any traces, so it's not necessary to bother with them on that side of the board, on which they have no connection.

The word Idiot refers to a person with many ideas, especially stupid and harmful ideas.
This world goes south since everything's run by financiers and economists.
This isn't voice chat, yet some people overusing online communications talk and hear voices.

Reply 5 of 7, by SDumas

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The best way and the one I use to avoid damaging the motherboard is to literally destroy the DIP socket.

This technique does not apply to round pin sockets (turned ones).

First i cut the pieces of plastic that join the two rows of pins so that they can be twisted freely

Twist each row of pins until it breaks completely in the pin area below the plastic part.
Sometimes there is not enough space for this operation, anyway take your time so you can achieve the task...

After that, add more lead solder (do not use tin solder), and remove pin by pin.

Finally, remove the solder from the holes, preferably with a hand dessoldering pump (this is the best to avoid damage).
If you don't succeed the first time, add more solder and repeat the operation.

I hope I was clear in explaining this technique...
I also use it to replace integrated circuits.But only when they are not good or not to expensive.

Reply 6 of 7, by analog_programmer

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SDumas wrote on 2025-01-25, 15:47:

The best way and the one I use to avoid damaging the motherboard is to literally destroy the DIP socket.

This technique does not apply to round pin sockets (turned ones).

...

This technique also applies to pin headers, connectors and some types of RAM slots 😀

But sometimes you can't wait too long to get the new socket or slot, so the original one has to be preserved for reuse during its removal from the PCB.

Your suggestion is 100% valid in OP's case, as this 40-pin socked is badly damaged by corrosion and can't be reused. Probably due to a lack of experience OP has chosen the non-destructive way. A man learns best from his own mistakes.

The word Idiot refers to a person with many ideas, especially stupid and harmful ideas.
This world goes south since everything's run by financiers and economists.
This isn't voice chat, yet some people overusing online communications talk and hear voices.

Reply 7 of 7, by joebelter@hotmail.co

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Thanks so VERY MUCH for the DETAILED replies! This is SO helpful!
I'm excited again. I've been really enjoying my repairs and building small kits and things... but this took the wind out of my sails! I thought maybe I'm not as capable as I thought I might be and should consider doing something else.
Very discouraging. I did so many things incorrectly...
Anyway, I know you learn best by doing AND failing, then picking yourself up and trying again...
Soooo... off I go!
Once again, my sincere thanks.
Joe