Have you tried ANY other socket 370 cpu ? Your board has BIOS 1005, you need bios 1006 to use that cpu iirc. Is the battery new ?

Horun wrote on 2025-04-25, 01:22:

Have you tried ANY other socket 370 cpu ? Your board has BIOS 1005, you need bios 1006 to use that cpu iirc. Is the battery new ?

I have no other CPUs currently and do not know how to update the bios without getting the system powered on first? What is the acronym IRCC? Battery is tested new.

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 01:28:

Horun wrote on 2025-04-25, 01:22:

Have you tried ANY other socket 370 cpu ? Your board has BIOS 1005, you need bios 1006 to use that cpu iirc. Is the battery new ?

I have no other CPUs currently and do not know how to update the bios without getting the system powered on first? What is the acronym IRCC? Battery is tested new.

iirc = if i recall correctly

If the bios version is the problem, You will need to get a coppermine cpu, boot off that, then update the bios.
Alternatively You could get an eeprom burner and update it that way.
There's a chance Your power supply could cause issues with only 20A on the +5v rail, and that will depend on what video card You use.

Imperious wrote on 2025-04-25, 01:59:

If the bios version is the problem, You will need to get a coppermine cpu, boot off that, then update the bios.
Alternatively You could get an eeprom burner and update it that way.
There's a chance Your power supply could cause issues with only 20A on the +5v rail, and that will depend on what video card You use.

Good call! I was driving and thinking the same thing just now, if in fact that's what needs to be done, it would be the easiest way forward. I read the manual, it appears 1.0GHz is the highest GHz if not running the latest BIOS update. I assumed running higher CPU that the board would just click it down. So is it possible that this could cause ZERO power, not even the board LED?

Welcome to the hobby! As said, you'll need an older Pentium III to test the boards in their current Bios version. A Coppermine can be had fairly cheap, especially the lower models or the Celeron version (733, 866 etc).

It can be a pickle troubleshooting a mainboard without spare bits. You'll also need to make sure the ram works fine, as this might prevent a system boot as well.

Definitely, it's not bios/cpu problem

flupke11 wrote on 2025-04-25, 06:02:

Welcome to the hobby! As said, you'll need an older Pentium III to test the boards in their current Bios version. A Coppermine can be had fairly cheap, especially the lower models or the Celeron version (733, 866 etc).

It can be a pickle troubleshooting a mainboard without spare bits. You'll also need to make sure the ram works fine, as this might prevent a system boot as well.

Getting rid off all my "spare bits" has come back to haunt me 45 years later... Today I plan to root-out a CPU somewhere? I realized there would be some hunting around once I decided to go back down this road, all part of the fun. plus it has jogged some memories.

shevalier wrote on 2025-04-25, 06:58:

Definitely, it's not bios/cpu problem

I hope you are wrong! 😀

shevalier wrote on 2025-04-25, 06:58:

Definitely, it's not bios/cpu problem

In the case it is determined to be the board, what are your thoughts on re-capping? What updated type and brand of caps would you suggest?

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:07:

I hope you are wrong! 😀

These motherboards are very primitive.
There is nothing really to break.
I would first change the PSU and try to run it without the CPU and memory.
It should turn on.
+5V STB is used on them either directly or through a primitive regulator.
There must be some voltage on the MIO chip in standby mode, in addition to the battery.
MIO is responsible for turning on the ATX PSU, if it is even slightly alive, the motherboard fans should twitch at least slightly.

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:14:

In the case it is determined to be the board, what are your thoughts on re-capping? What updated type and brand of caps would you suggest?

Which are free 😀
For example, from old-type Asus AM2+/AM3 motherboards with a diameter of 8 mm. For yellow PСB, I prefer red capacitors.
In fact, any cheap polymer capacitors - Lelon, Capxon PS, Samwha FB, ULR.
There are no hard currents at the 370 socket, any type of cheap General use polymer capacitor will serve as a direct replacement for the ultra-branded electrolytic of those years.

No power at all?
Got a multimeter?

Personally, I'd give it a thorough wash - eg dishwasher with no soap.
You'd be surprised how many things come to life again after a good clean.

shevalier wrote on 2025-04-25, 14:46:

These motherboards are very primitive. There is nothing really to break. I would first change the PSU and try to run it without […]
Show full quote

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:07:

I hope you are wrong! 😀

These motherboards are very primitive.
There is nothing really to break.
I would first change the PSU and try to run it without the CPU and memory.
It should turn on.
+5V STB is used on them either directly or through a primitive regulator.
There must be some voltage on the MIO chip in standby mode, in addition to the battery.
MIO is responsible for turning on the ATX PSU, if it is even slightly alive, the motherboard fans should twitch at least slightly.

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:14:

In the case it is determined to be the board, what are your thoughts on re-capping? What updated type and brand of caps would you suggest?

Which are free 😀
For example, from old-type Asus AM2+/AM3 motherboards with a diameter of 8 mm. For yellow PСB, I prefer red capacitors.
In fact, any cheap polymer capacitors - Lelon, Capxon PS, Samwha FB, ULR.
There are no hard currents at the 370 socket, any type of cheap General use polymer capacitor will serve as a direct replacement for the ultra-branded electrolytic of those years.

I'll remove the CPU and memory and see what happens. The PSU is a new MSI (tested).

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 18:43:

I'll remove the CPU and memory and see what happens. The PSU is a new MSI (tested).

I looked at the photo of your board.
Its MIO functionality is in the southbridge.
VIA integrated this functionality, although few manufacturer used it. Keyboard/mouse/floppy/ATX_power_on/ATX_power_good was usually implemented on a separate Winbond/ITE chip.

But the VIA south bridge has a bad joke that if not installed additional parts (transistor or logic ic) on the power button, but connect directly from the pins.
Then the motherboard cannot be turned on with an uninsulated metal object - tweezers, a paper clip, a screw, etc.
Only an insulated one, like a screwdriver with a plastic handle.
Apparently, interference from the AC powerline is affecting.
I almost threw away a fully functional Socket 7 motherboard.

shevalier wrote on 2025-04-25, 14:46:

These motherboards are very primitive. There is nothing really to break. I would first change the PSU and try to run it without […]
Show full quote

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:07:

I hope you are wrong! 😀

These motherboards are very primitive.
There is nothing really to break.
I would first change the PSU and try to run it without the CPU and memory.
It should turn on.
+5V STB is used on them either directly or through a primitive regulator.
There must be some voltage on the MIO chip in standby mode, in addition to the battery.
MIO is responsible for turning on the ATX PSU, if it is even slightly alive, the motherboard fans should twitch at least slightly.

Kittyboy wrote on 2025-04-25, 13:14:

In the case it is determined to be the board, what are your thoughts on re-capping? What updated type and brand of caps would you suggest?

Which are free 😀
For example, from old-type Asus AM2+/AM3 motherboards with a diameter of 8 mm. For yellow PСB, I prefer red capacitors.
In fact, any cheap polymer capacitors - Lelon, Capxon PS, Samwha FB, ULR.
There are no hard currents at the 370 socket, any type of cheap General use polymer capacitor will serve as a direct replacement for the ultra-branded electrolytic of those years.

I finally figured out my power issue! The modular power cable I was using with the PSU was not from the same vendor, apparently wired differently or just wrong? After getting a proper cable I got power to the board. The modular PSU setup combines two plugs, 10pin and 18pin, to a 20+4 ATX connector. Wow, what a week!!! The fun didn't stop there, after my tears of joy, still had a black screen, long beep, long beep, long beep (Award BOIS). Thought bad CPU or motherboard? I then re-set the board jumper from "jumper mode" with switch 3 ON to "jumper free mode" all switches off. Removed the battery, shorted the BIOS again, got one long beep and three short beeps. Shorted BIOS again, one long beep and two short beeps. Swapped graphic cards, shorted BIOS one more time, BIOS setup screen!!!! Tears of joy (see images). Apparently the TUV4X board setup is best in "jumper free mode" all switches off. I originally planned jumper free mode but was concerned, the board was sent with documentation showing up to 1GHz REV: 1005 BIOS, afraid it may cause potential issues. As it turns out REV: 1005 BIOS allows for manual settings up to the full 1.4GHz potential for P3-S (SLB6Y) CPU. I want to add, based on troubleshooting observation, with proper PSU power, the board LED will illuminate power ON with/without CPU installed, with/without memory installed. Also, no errors with only one bank of memory install, I am currently running 4x 512mb udimm non-ECC. I updated the BIOS to latest REV: 1006 using a:\aflash.exe with bootable floppy. Fortunately I have another P3 computer with USB. Downloaded the REV on USB, then transferred it to floppy for TUV4X. Good old days return in 2025! Now my latest dilemma, researching what CD-ROM drives are supported with Win98se install CD for Oak Technology ATAPI CD-ROM device driver? Mine are all too new as it turns out. I'm getting old based on optical drive evolution throughout the years. Anyone know a good list, small number were listed on the Windows CD under drivers. I think Plextor was a good brand, SONY... What is the VOGONS consensus for period Win89se optical drives for loading Windows98se?

Which CD-ROM drive are you trying to use? CD-ROM compatibility is not something I've thought about in the windows era.

Good Work !

Any IDE (ATAPI) CDROM will work the same as any other

Horun wrote on 2025-04-26, 21:35:

Good Work !

Thank you, it's been a fun journey so far. Always nice when you don't cook something foolishly. PS: I have had my share of cooking a few things in the past! haha