Cheers mate! Even though dark blue isn't something I would do (but it depends on how bad the yellowing looks of course) the paintjob is fairly well done. It could use some extra paint where the U-cap and front panel meet though 😜
It looks very clean though, clean as new 😁

And one hint:The button of the PSU actually belongs to the case, not the PSU. Be sure to unscrew the button from the PSU cable before tossing it (if you decide to not keep the PSU that is) 😉

What did you use to paint it? Looks good as new inside, maybe a bit of touch up is required on the front. I've got a few old cases that could do with a paint job too. But my past experience with painting stuff hasn't been too good (you could say i'm artistically challenged)!

Yep. Needs a little bit more paint on the edges where it hasn't covered quite as well - the power button was taken out because I plan to fit the ATX psu instead - what I'll do there is remove the latch mechanism from inside the AT power switch and turn it into a momentary type needed by ATX. On the front I took the square case badge off, so I'll need to get a replacement to go in its place.

Will also seal it with clear spray varnish - the paint (Plastikote 'flat navy blue' and 'flat white') isn't the toughest in the world.

You do not need a momentary switch when using the ATX/AT converter cable!

h-a-l-9000 wrote:

You do not need a momentary switch when using the ATX/AT converter cable!

I know, I just wanted to mention to keep it instead of possibly tossing it with the PSU (like I did years ago ouchy 😜)

This response was not for you.
megatron-uk wrote:
"...what I'll do there is remove the latch mechanism from inside the AT power switch and turn it into a momentary type needed by ATX."

I have one just like that (but mine is still beige 😜

Just found someone on Ebay with a supply of AT motherboard standoffs (the ones that are used to slot into the motherboard tray). So I should be able to start to get this assembled pretty soon.

I'll strip and clean the AT PSU that came with the case first - it's pretty dirty, but cleaning things up can often make a world of difference 😀

Also have an old floppy drive to paint (well, just the bezel and eject button) and the blanking plates for the front of the case. Then that should be it!

Update! The case is finished - all the blanking panels, floppy drive and CF card reader bay have been painted blue to match the case. Some parts (floppy dust cover, eject button, case power button) have been painted black to match the LED insert panel and the CF reader.

I don't think it looks too bad!

CF drive bay reader and 5.25 to 3.5 sled:

3.5 Floppy:

Original AT power supply cleaned, fan checked and re-installed (actually pretty quiet!):

SCSI to IDE bridge installed in IDE CF reader:

Completed case:

I have to straighten the 5.25 to 3.5 sled - it twists slightly, as you can tell in the last image. The only other thing left to do is fit a new case badge - I'm a bit undecided what to put there!

I have seen lots of very similar cases around - different heights or fronts, but all with that same black control panel and all looking like they were made by the same manufacturuer. Does anyone know who made that case?

megatron-uk wrote:

The only other thing left to do is fit a new case badge - I'm a bit undecided what to put there!

Whats going to go in the case? If it's a 486, why not a nice crisp "Intel Tetrium Processor" badge? 😁

Nothing so flash and fancy as a 486!... it's the original motherboard from my very first PC - a 16MHz AMD 286.

I don't think they make a '80286 Inside' badge 😁

You could make your own "286 inside" badge 😁

ncmark wrote:

You could make your own "286 inside" badge 😁

Inside 286 vagina.. 🤣

Robin4 wrote:

ncmark wrote:

You could make your own "286 inside" badge 😁

Inside 286 vagina.. 🤣

😕

Got the motherboard spacers today and installed the board, wired up the front panel connectors and fired it up (no IO or sound right now, just a VGA card):

However, I've hit a problem..... ROM BIOS Checksum Error 🙁

Wow - I see you even have the display set to the correct frequency 😁

I'm running a 500 p3 in mine so it's hard to set the display properly

Yep, this one has a display that does 199 as the highest. Cannot figure out how to get it to change when Turbo is disabled though - it always stays the same. The panel ha a 3 pin Turbo switch lead and the board only a 2 pin Turbo switch header so it might not be possible.

Usually with those, the 3 pin header has the middle pin as ground, and you can connect it using either side wire. It just changes whether Turbo is on when the button is pushed in/circuit closed, or if turbo is on when the button is out/circuit open. Its just personal preference.

Can you show us a photo of the back of the turbo display?
The ones I've used have 3 jumpers for each individual segment - ON when turbo on, ON when turbo off, or COMMON (on regardless of turbo state)