VOGONS


First post, by Ozzuneoj

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So, I got a CT1350B in its original box with a lot of vintage hardware last fall and I decided to try it out today. It was missing its volume knob (the pot was still there) though. Thankfully, I recently obtained a Media Vision Pro 3D card that needs an odd-ball 3-connector filter capacitor replaced, which is going to have to wait until I have a few other small parts to order. Since that card uses an identical volume dial and attaching screw, I borrowed them for the CT1350B so I could actually adjust the volume.

Now, the problem I have is that I get a strange scratchy hissing noise from the output. I've connected it to two different devices (a monitor with built in speakers and a DIY mini-amp I built). Both exhibit the same problem. I tried a few games that are from the late 80s to early 90s and generally all I get is that there is some kind of change in the noise when digitized sounds or OPL music should be playing, but there is no recognizable music or sound coming through the speakers.

I tested Silpheed, Zeliard and Nascar Racing (CD version). The computer is running Windows 98SE (on a 440LX board running a Pentium II 266) for the sake of testing, and I did install the card as a sound blaster compatible in Windows. What's strange is that although it doesn't seem to allow it to be used for anything other than DOS applications (I don't get a speaker icon in the system tray), there is a break in the noise when I click on certain things in Windows, as if its responding somehow. The games themselves were tested in DOS mode. Set blaster is set properly in autoexec as well.

I've never dealt with sound hardware this old, so I don't know if I'm just doing something wrong, or if there is some kind of defect with the card. A defect is certainly possible, considering that the card had its volume knob harvested at some point, but I'm not sure where to go from here. I thought maybe it was because I was using a stereo mini jack and the SB 2.0 is only mono that it was having some kind of issue there, but even with a 3.5mm mono plug, connected to one side of an RCA to 3.5mm stereo Y cable, I get the same problem.

Are there any common failures with these? I should be able to replace just about anything on one of these since the components are so large and accessible.

EDIT: A little bit more info...

The volume knob does effect the level of static I get, so the pot seems to be fine there.

I did a super technical "sniff test" after running the card, to tell if any components may be fried... and to my surprise, the TEA2025B in the middle of all the electrolytics near the card's inputs and outputs has a faint but distinct smell of burnt electronics. There isn't any visible damage, and this appears to be the amplifier that runs the speaker output, so I'm inclined to think that someone probably just pushed the poor fella too hard at some point (hooked it up to some large speakers with low resistance maybe), fried it and then threw it back in the box, only to harvest the volume knob some time later.

I may have one of these chips, but if I don't, are there some common chips that are compatible? I could probably just steal one off a less interesting sound card of course... but I've got a few sacks of old DIP chips of various types and I may have a compatible replacement ready to be used.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 1 of 9, by DonutKing

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Does this board have the CMS chips (Phillips SAA1099) and a GAL chip installed? There is a known compatibility issue with later variants of these cards and the CMS upgrade; try removing these chips and trying again.
Any chance of getting a clear photo of the card?

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.

Reply 2 of 9, by Ozzuneoj

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DonutKing wrote:

Does this board have the CMS chips (Phillips SAA1099) and a GAL chip installed? There is a known compatibility issue with later variants of these cards and the CMS upgrade; try removing these chips and trying again.
Any chance of getting a clear photo of the card?

Actually, my card is a revision 3, with the CT1336 (not CT1336A) and no CMS chips installed. I've read about the CMS upgrade and would be interested in doing it eventually if I can get the card working properly. 😀

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 3 of 9, by PhilsComputerLab

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The PSU you're using supplies -5 V?

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Reply 4 of 9, by Ozzuneoj

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PhilsComputerLab wrote:

The PSU you're using supplies -5 V?

Ah... Probably not. It's not a new PSU by any means but it's probably from after 2000.

I'll have to see if any of my ATX supplies have -5v.

Is it likely that this damaged the card? If so, what should I plan on replacing now? 🤣

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 5 of 9, by PhilsComputerLab

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Nah it won't damage it. But it the -5V is missing the card sounds clearly faulty. Not sure if that's your issue though, but worth checking.

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Reply 6 of 9, by Ozzuneoj

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PhilsComputerLab wrote:

Nah it won't damage it. But it the -5V is missing the card sounds clearly faulty. Not sure if that's your issue though, but worth checking.

That's good to hear! I just checked the ATX connector and it is missing the -5v pin (the case has a plate that covers the information label on the PSU...). Thankfully, I do have a couple of older PSUs that have -5v rails. One suppliea 0.3a and the other 0.5a.. does this really matter?

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 7 of 9, by PhilsComputerLab

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Nah that doesn't matter much. Hopefully it sorts out your issue.

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Reply 8 of 9, by Jepael

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Ozzuneoj wrote:

I thought maybe it was because I was using a stereo mini jack and the SB 2.0 is only mono that it was having some kind of issue there, but even with a 3.5mm mono plug, connected to one side of an RCA to 3.5mm stereo Y cable, I get the same problem.

Don't connect mono plug, only stereo. While FM and DAC are monophonic, the CMS music (upgrade) is stereo, so the whole card (TEA2025B amp and the 3.5mm connector) is stereo.

Ozzuneoj wrote:

I did a super technical "sniff test" after running the card, to tell if any components may be fried... and to my surprise, the TEA2025B in the middle of all the electrolytics near the card's inputs and outputs has a faint but distinct smell of burnt electronics. There isn't any visible damage, and this appears to be the amplifier that runs the speaker output, so I'm inclined to think that someone probably just pushed the poor fella too hard at some point (hooked it up to some large speakers with low resistance maybe), fried it and then threw it back in the box, only to harvest the volume knob some time later.

Or it might just run quite hot in normal usage and thus emit faint warm smell of electronics, especially if it is dusty.

Reply 9 of 9, by Ozzuneoj

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Okay, it seems to be working great with an old Enlight 250W ATX PSU that has a -5v rail! I was still getting problems in Windows but that turned out to be an unreported IRQ conflict. After switching the card to IRQ7, disabling my Parallel port and changing the card's resources in device manager to IRQ7, it works perfectly! I still can't adjust the volume within Windows, but hey, the card has a knob on the back. 😮

I must say, the sound of that old Yamaha OPL2 is really cool. It reminds me a lot of the Sega Genesis... ohhh, I see why now! I just looked up the Genesis and saw that it used a YM2612 Yamaha OPN chip. I don't know what the technical difference is, but I'm sure they have some similarities. Good to know!

Also, does anyone know how to get sound effects in Silpheed? I edited resources.cfg and changed "cms.drv" to "adl.drv" to get Adlib music (which works great!) but there's no shooting effects... presumably because the Adlib was FM only. What would I use to hear sounds and music on a Sound Blaster?

EDIT: I just remembered... I am interested in getting the CMS upgrade for this card to make it truly complete. Is anyone online anywhere still programming GAL chips for this purpose? Everything I've been able to find has led to threads where people have simply run out of them.

If I do it myself, what kind of programmer will I need? I Have a very old A.R.T. EPROM programmer, but I doubt it'd work for these.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.