It would seem checking resistance red and blue on both tubes show simliar resistances of only 0.44 ohms, however between yellow and green i get 7.57 ohms on my potential doner and 2.78 ohms on the worn out tube

those are for the horizontal & vertical deflection.
I'm guessing if you need to swap the wires or not will depend on the correct screen output.
display would be mirrored, either left-right, up-down, or both.

Good to know. Thanks. will go ahead and give it a try, just didn't know what exactly would happen if something was backwards. You think the ohm difference isn't a big deal between the two tubes?

Reversed wires will only mirror the image. The line coils need to have roughly same resistance and inductance. When the inductance differs too much, all the voltages will be off and there can be a catastrophic failure, when resistance differs too much the linearity coil will not be able to give provide straight lines and one side of the image will appear compressed compared to other.

Vertical can be quite different, there shouldn't be much headaches in there.

Any parts swapped and you typically need a complete realignment anyway, so trick is I guess to know the limits of what you can re-align when the pic comes up a bit squiffy. Personally I'm a suck-it-and-see kind of meddler and feel my way through these kind of things, so I'd try stuff like sticking an 8 ohm coil in parallel. Meanwhile keeping the IR thermometer hopping from transistor to transistor to make sure nothing is getting too warm. Now your oldschool TV dude when doing something a bit doubtful would bring the line voltage up real slow, he'd have a rheostat or a board of switches and light bulbs, and if as he brought it up, something was getting too hot before full volts, or pic collapsed or something, then he'd be able to go back and do something different before the smoking pile of debris mode happened.

Well, I guess it will just work 😀

Tiido wrote on 2021-10-03, 17:43:

... catastrophic ...

Just be very very careful not to damage the tubes.

Don' t be a stupid guy like these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIT1XKFdUkw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um5pYt73d-I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F55QBcIiZdM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcpVLZVSELs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-7h_3ioqXU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xei3MFgPPj0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv-Ub7kgm0Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFwsB1N25m8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv7MMkrTJOw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m04XfekeSP4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpL_Iwue14

And finally:
Do you like this? 😀
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sThyWQC4RY

Back in the day in 2003 when I was starting to learn the ropes of repairing consumer electronics because was recently hired, a tech showed me a prank with a typical TV.

He reversed the connectors for horizontal only and same thing for vertical only. You can do so like that too if the circuit is reversed (rarely seen).

On color CRT monitors the yoke is glued. If the resolutions same for both, should work. The wide spaced pair of wires is horizontal red and blue, and other two wires close spaced, yellow and green is for vertical.

Cheers,

Got a chance to get it swapped...and no meltdowns. Everything worked out perfect. The screen was mega stretched, but the controls on the front were within spec to get the size back to normal. This screen is much brighter than the other one. Thanks all for the encouragement to swap this over

This is incorrect way to adjust.

Correct way:

Have all the front controls centered, adjust *internal* pots at typical resolution like 640x480, 800x600 at standard then 1024x768, if this monitor supports also at 1280x1024 checking that they are close that only the front controls can be adjusted in small amounts. Position, for horizontal and vertical, Width, and height just so and pincushion that creates () or )(, you want ||.

If you have R, G, B knobs on cathode board, you need to output video bars in grey scale from white to black. Leave the front control centered for the color. Adjust the Cathode board for true grey and true white.
This way you get a perfect color when done this way.

I do same way with any monitor or TV I own using grey scale test video and the color brights will not be blown out and especially browns will look right, via their deep into menu.

Cheers,