VOGONS


First post, by QBiN

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When I first joined Vogons in 2005, this was my daily driver PC:

QBiN wrote:

Lastly... my everyday PC...
MSI Neo2 (i865PE) Mobo w/ P4-2.8GHz, 1GB DDR-400 RAM, Geforce-6800GT 256MB, WD 74GB Raptor 10K, 3.5" Floppy, LG 52x CD-RW + LG 16x DVD+-RW/RAM, Intel Pro/100+ NIC, and Sound Blaster Audigy 2. Runs WinXP-SP2.

That PC was given away some time ago (before it was retro) when everyone universally wanted to forget that NetBurst existed. Now... NetBurst is retro-worthy even if still an ugly duckling and I wanted to rebuild a P4 box. I normally prefer era correct builds... but this build stretches a little forward in a couple of cases because it's what I had on hand. The goal was a mid-era P4 (no Prescott or higher) that was a great DX-9c performer. Here's my attempt:

Case: CoolerMaster Elite 361 (built-in top mount 120mm fan, constant RPM)
Motherboard: Intel D875PBZ (OEM from Gateway E-6100)
CPU: Intel P4 3.2GHz, Extreme Edition
HSF: Zalman CNPS-7000B-Cu, All copper, very quiet, very efficient HSF
RAM: 4x 1GB (4GB total) DDR400, Corsair XMS3200 Platinum CL2
HDD: Western Digital Raptor 10k, 150GB SATA
Aux Case Fan: Silenx 80mm fan (12dBa, rear mount, variable RPM controlled by motherboard)
PSU: Corsair CX430M, 430 Watt
Video: Sapphire Radeon HD 3850 512MB, AGP 8x
Sound: Creative Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro
NIC: Built-in Intel Pro/1000 CT chipset
OS: Windows XP SP2 (NO SP3!)

I really enjoy this CoolerMaster case. I used another in my Pentium build and it always results in a nice compact solution:
IMG_1739.png

Video and Sound Card and Audigy Ext. IO Hub. The IO Hub is nice as it does not need to be connected to the PC at all times. Only when you need MIDI ports or the other extra ports it has.
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Everything installed. HDD is tucked in 3.5" bay. PSU in faux 5.25" bay with excess cables tucked above it. Cable management of the PSU cables is still a challenge:
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Both the top mount and rear mount fans blow outward to expel the hot air away from the CPU and create negative case pressure. Air is drawn in via the front and rear case grill openings as well as a side panel grill next to the video card. The Zalman does a fantastic job of keeping the Extreme Edition CPU in the low 40 degrees celsius range at idle and in the low 50's at load. The top mount 120mm runs constantly. The rear mount 80mm only runs when the motherboard temp rises above 40 degrees. Otherwise it's idle:
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Rear case shot while running:
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Desktop shot with some of the thermal management diags running:
Canterwood%20Desktop.png

Lessons Learned and Summary:
OS was installed using a USB external DVD rom drive. The BIOS supported booting from it. So that allowed me to avoid needing ANY removable media drives. Initially I used the stock intel cooler. However, with that cooler the CPU was running at 75~80 degrees at load with DX9 games. So I got the Zalman to help with that. The Zalman along with the two fans pushing hot air out of the top of the case really made a world of difference. The current configuration runs cooler, more quiet, and faster than my P4 from the mid 2000's. So that's a win, even if it was a pain to get there. I left the front panel USB disconnected because the ICH5 southbridges had a bad habit of frying themselves violently if they took an ESD shock from the external USB ports (just avoided that altogether).

Another pain was drivers for the Radeon HD 3850. The PCIe-to-AGP bridge chip used in this card was extremely finicky with drivers. The card was only stable with the Sapphire-specific download of Catalyst 12.6 "AGP-Hotfix" version available on the Sapphire site. All other drivers weren't even stable at an idle desktop. With the Sapphire driver it was fairly well-behaved except for an occasional hard crash when Steam starts up and does it's hardware scan. Other than that, no issues with any DX9 games. I know the card is DX10 capable, but it was sacrificed on this build because I refused to run Vista on this box.

Another observation... I originally started with DDR-333 mixed memory, but that configuration prevented the Intel i875 chipset from using it's "PAT" memory path. Once I switched to DDR400 matched memory and PAT was enabled, the overall speed difference was VERY noticeable. Responsiveness and boot times were improved tangibly. I would definitely recommend getting a setup compatible with PAT if you have an i875 or i865PE based motherboard.

Overall this thing does great in Far Cry, Half-Life 2 episode 2 (and other source games) even at 1280x1024. There were moments were I noticed the frame rates might have dipped below 30fps, but overall very fluid. I haven't tried much else. I don't expect perfection. I just hope for a good representation of high-ish end performance of the day. I was thinking of installing F.E.A.R.. If you have suggestions for good P4 era games to try, I'm all ears. Here's the 3DMark06 score (with defaults):
Canterwood%203dMark06%20score%20crop.png

Thanks for reading... I appreciate any questions/comments/flames.

Last edited by QBiN on 2015-11-19, 15:13. Edited 2 times in total.

Reply 1 of 48, by dr_st

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This is a very nice build, and about as high-end as it goes for a pre-775 Pentium4.

Seeing as we frequently get (overly) attached to things we own, I also happen to be extra fond of late s478 Northwoods, as I still own such a system too. Not quite as high-end as yours (just a regular 3.0C, and a 6600GT), and since it basically works, I cannot bring myself to spend extra money on it, knowing that it will still get nowhere nearly as powerful as modern multi-core systems. So I just keep it in basic working condition (which means replacing two motherboards, a few drives, and a handful of case fans in the 11 years of its existence).

Like you, I never liked the stock Intel cooler for the socket 478. It was loud and not very efficient. At some point I had mine replaced with a Arctic Cooling Super Silent 4, which is nothing special, but at least low-profile and quiet (and far easier to put on that the Intel cooler).

The D875PBZ is an interesting board. 6 USB ports at the back is fairly unusual, as most ICH5R boards had 4 at the back + 4 via internal headers. It is also the only one I know that didn't come with integrated audio (not that I would have used it anyways). Plus, it's one of the few boards that has the Intel CSA Gigabit LAN with its dedicated bus to the Northbridge, instead of sharing the crowded PCI bus with other peripherals as all other Gigabit solutions of the time. Dunno how much practical difference it brings, but I've seen benchmarks showing about 100Mbps improvements.

Congrats on a job well done, and enjoy this machine. 😀

https://cloakedthargoid.wordpress.com/ - Random content on hardware, software, games and toys

Reply 2 of 48, by QBiN

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Thanks... I initially thought I might try to build a Presler-based Pentium D and go for truly the last of the Netburst, but I had no sentimental attachment to it. The more I thought about the Preslers, the more I was convinced it would be an effort in the masochism.

Reply 3 of 48, by dexter311

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That's an interesting case... Are they screws holding in the front 3.5" drive cage? Can it be removed to fit really long ISA cards like the AWE32?

EDIT - Ah on second glance, they must be for the 5.25" bay. 😊

Reply 4 of 48, by BSA Starfire

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QBiN wrote:

Thanks... I initially thought I might try to build a Presler-based Pentium D and go for truly the last of the Netburst, but I had no sentimental attachment to it. The more I thought about the Preslers, the more I was convinced it would be an effort in the masochism.

I have to say the Pentium D, both smithfield and presler are not that bad, we use both at work & they have been solid as a rock. We also have P4 Northwood(2.8Ghz, one 533fsb(845) other 800fsb(Dell 865)) machines. They have run 24/7 for a long, long time with no issues. The enviroment is not at all pleasant for PC's either, being a busy garage with 3 workshops, the fumes, dust, heat, cold, welding etc are not kind.
Netburst has it's moments and it's VERY robust in my experience.
That looks like a really nice build, I have the same Zalman in my Netburst machine at home, good bit of kit.
Best,
Chris

286 20MHz,1MB RAM,Trident 8900B 1MB, Conner CFA-170A.SB 1350B
386SX 33MHz,ULSI 387,4MB Ram,OAK OTI077 1MB. Seagate ST1144A, MS WSS audio
Amstrad PC 9486i, DX/2 66, 16 MB RAM, Cirrus SVGA,Win 95,SB 16
Cyrix MII 333,128MB,SiS 6326 H0 rev,ESS 1869,Win ME

Reply 5 of 48, by ultimate386

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Nice system! I'm fond of the D875PBZ board as well. Up until a couple years ago I was running one as my home theater box. When I retired it from home theater use, I did a quickie rebuild with XP SP3 and have had it in storage (future project closet!) since.

My dad uses a 3.6ghz Presler as his main system to this day. With 4gb DDR2, a Radeon R9 270, and running Windows 8.1 on a 240GB SSD... it is not a bad little system.

AMD386/IIT387DX40, 32MB, ATi Mach64, AWE64
Compaq Prolinea 4/33, 32MB, Tseng ET4000, SB16
AMD X5, 64MB, S3 Virge/Voodoo1, AWE64
AMD K62+550, 256MB, Voodoo3, AWE64 Gold
P3 1.2Ghz, 512MB, Radeon 7500/Voodoo2 SLI, SB Live!

Reply 6 of 48, by Dreamer_of_the_past

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Good choice of parts, especially the heatsink. Is this the best heatsink money can buy for this specific CPU? How hot does it get when you play games? Do you actually get any benefits from that second yellow fan?

Reply 7 of 48, by TELVM

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That yellow fan helps on cooling a mobo area that warms up like an oven (courtesy of blazing non-heatsinked VRM FETs and scorching toroid coils).

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I'd either add another 92mm fan below it or either cover up the lower rear fan station, to prevent recirculation or 'short-circuiting' air.

Short_Circulating_Air.gif

Let the air flow!

Reply 8 of 48, by saturn

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Dreamer_of_the_past wrote:

Good choice of parts, especially the heatsink. Is this the best heatsink money can buy for this specific CPU?

it's a good heeatsink but a waterblock and a good LCS would be better.
Also OP I would try switching the top 120mm and rear 80mm fan to intake and the front fan to exhaust.

Reply 9 of 48, by Dreamer_of_the_past

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TELVM wrote:

That yellow fan helps on cooling a mobo area that warms up like an oven.

I see, I just though that the black fan could handle it all.

TELVM wrote:

I'd either add another 92mm fan below it or either cover up the lower rear fan station, to prevent recirculation or 'short-circuiting' air.

I guess this is one of those cases when you don't want to use a retro PC case. It probably even better in this case to use two 92mm fans in the lower rear fan station.

Reply 11 of 48, by Dreamer_of_the_past

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saturn wrote:
Dreamer_of_the_past wrote:

Good choice of parts, especially the heatsink. Is this the best heatsink money can buy for this specific CPU?

it's a good heeatsink but a waterblock and a good LCS would be better.

Are there any good water cooling systems for this specific CPU?

Reply 12 of 48, by QBiN

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Under load (playing Far Cry and Half-Life 2: Episode 1) the CPU temp crept up to around the low 50's centrigrade. That model Zalman (CNPS-7000B-Cu) is one of the best for Socket 478. There are other variations that are not all copper, but I felt going all copper would benefit the Netburst CPU, which runs hot by nature.

Telvm, is correct. the 80mm is there to expel hot air from the area on the motherboard near the CPU and power regulating circuits. It is connected to the motherboard's "case fan" header which provides speed control (dependent on the motherboard thermal sensor). At idle, the yellow 80mm doesn't spin at all. Under load it gets going. I specifically installed both fans to exhaust air instead of intake because the ambient air near there would already hot under load. So, I wanted to vent that hot air upward and outward as soon as possible while using the case in a tower orientation. The other benefit to them being installed as exhaust fans is that it helps create negative case pressure drawing cooler air (closer to the floor) from the side panel vent as well as the front grill openings. So far, it works quite well, and I see no need to flip the fans around. Though, I may take Telvm's advise and block off the unused 80mm vent on the back.

As far as water cooling is concerned, I looked. From my recollection as well as brief research for this build, closed-loop water cooling kits like those from Corsair's Hydro series weren't common when Socket 478 was at it's peak. Most water cooling rigs back then were very custom setups built using individual water blocks, tubing, radiators, and reservoir tanks. They required more maintenance than modern sealed kits do and just didn't seem worth the hassle considering the Zalman is working so well.

Reply 13 of 48, by saturn

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QBiN wrote:

As far as water cooling is concerned, I looked. From my recollection as well as brief research for this build, closed-loop water cooling kits like those from Corsair's Hydro series weren't common when Socket 478 was at it's peak. Most water cooling rigs back then were very custom setups built using individual water blocks, tubing, radiators, and reservoir tanks. They required more maintenance than modern sealed kits do and just didn't seem worth the hassle considering the Zalman is working so well.

Those Corsair's Hydro series and other sealed loops suck, high end air coolers often do better then them. Also they don't need anyless maintenance then a full loop. In Fact the Hydro style coolers are/were known for pump failure.

Reply 14 of 48, by QBiN

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saturn wrote:

Those Corsair's Hydro series and other sealed loops suck, high end air coolers often do better then them. Also they don't need anyless maintenance then a full loop. In Fact the Hydro style coolers are/were known for pump failure.

Perhaps mine are the exception. At the very least, my experience is different. I have an H80 installed on a Core2 Duo that's been running continuously now for about 7 years. I have an H100 on my current Core i7 that's been running continuously for about 3 years. Neither has given me any issue, and neither have degraded as measured by average CPU temps. So long as they keep doing me right, I'll keep using them.

Back to the topic... Water cooling in any shape/form was not as prevalent in the mid-P4 era. The Zalman seems more than capable and it's completely silent to my ears from outside the case.

Reply 15 of 48, by saturn

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QBiN wrote:
saturn wrote:

Those Corsair's Hydro series and other sealed loops suck, high end air coolers often do better then them. Also they don't need anyless maintenance then a full loop. In Fact the Hydro style coolers are/were known for pump failure.

Perhaps mine are the exception. At the very least, my experience is different. I have an H80 installed on a Core2 Duo that's been running continuously now for about 7 years. I have an H100 on my current Core i7 that's been running continuously for about 3 years. Neither has given me any issue, and neither have degraded as measured by average CPU temps. So long as they keep doing me right, I'll keep using them.

Back to the topic... Water cooling in any shape/form was not as prevalent in the mid-P4 era. The Zalman seems more than capable and it's completely silent to my ears from outside the case.

I call shenanigans, the H80 has not even been around for 7 years. They came out July of 2011.

Reply 16 of 48, by QBiN

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saturn wrote:

I call shenanigans, the H80 has not even been around for 7 years. They came out July of 2011.

I may be getting the model number wrong... It may be an H60 or whatever. But it is a Corsair Hydro series. I'll take a picture if you like. It's all really besides the point.

Reply 17 of 48, by saturn

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QBiN wrote:
saturn wrote:

I call shenanigans, the H80 has not even been around for 7 years. They came out July of 2011.

I may be getting the model number wrong... It may be an H60 or whatever. But it is a Corsair Hydro series. I'll take a picture if you like. It's all really besides the point.

I'm betting it's a h50 if you had it that long. Most high end and upper mid range air coolers are better then it. Unless if you don't care about sound. Then it's a deferent kind of game.
The way I look at it, and this is coming from someone that has been water cooling since danger den started.
Coolers like the h50/60/80/100 are not worth the time, yes they are cheaper then a full loop, yes they are better then most air coolers, yes they are simpler and easyer then a full loop. But for what you pay you can have a good air cooler with about the same temps and lower sound output. They use inadequate pumps and blocks with them and given the smaller radiator... Well it's no wonder the are beat by higher end air coolers. And just as a reference, your p4 could be topping out at 35-40c with a good full loop. Depending one your room temps that may be lower or higher. Last time I had a water cool Prescott it was running at 3.8ghz and topping out at 55c-ish.

Bat on topic, that heatsink you're using is a good one. I like them for what they are. They look cool and since they help to cool the mosfets and NB is just icing on the cake. There are better air collers out the for socket 478, but try finding them. By the way what kind of tim are you using?

Reply 18 of 48, by Tetrium

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TELVM, how do you take those thermal images?

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