This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website. […]
Show full quote

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Am286-16 01.jpg

Am286-16 02.jpg

Am286-16 03.jpg

Nice. I have an affection for 286s.

eesz34 wrote on 2023-08-17, 14:06:

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website. […]
Show full quote

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Am286-16 01.jpg

Am286-16 02.jpg

Am286-16 03.jpg

Nice. I have an affection for 286s.

Count me in as well. That case looks brand spanking new inside. Is that a NOS PSU? So shiny... Never understood people who place the CDROM in the lowest drive bay though... 😀

pan069 wrote on 2023-08-17, 14:53:

eesz34 wrote on 2023-08-17, 14:06:

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website. […]
Show full quote

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Am286-16 01.jpg

Am286-16 02.jpg

Am286-16 03.jpg

Nice. I have an affection for 286s.

Count me in as well. That case looks brand spanking new inside. Is that a NOS PSU? So shiny... Never understood people who place the CDROM in the lowest drive bay though... 😀

That case was in an incredibly miserable condition when I bought it, and had a 386SX-20 system inside. I've done a meticulous cleaning of it inside out, thank you 😀

CD-ROM at lower bay makes it easier to change things on the upper bays (such as hard drives etc.) in these cases. I eventually hope to add a 5.25" floppy to this build, probably at the middle bay.

Wow, a genuine 286 case, connected to a Sony Bravia LCD TV, and one of thse those el-cheapo HP business keyboard. And Sennheiser HD202, if I am not mistaken. I used to own a pair. Loved them and hated them at the same time.

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website. […]
Show full quote

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Am286-16 01.jpg

Am286-16 02.jpg

Am286-16 03.jpg

Very nice, indeed! Is it some version of Sim City?

H3nrik V! wrote on 2023-08-17, 17:23:

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website. […]
Show full quote

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Am286-16 01.jpg

Am286-16 02.jpg

Am286-16 03.jpg

Very nice, indeed! Is it some version of Sim City?

It is A-Train by Maxis/Artdink 😀

dr_st wrote on 2023-08-17, 17:13:

Wow, a genuine 286 case, connected to a Sony Bravia LCD TV, and one of thse those el-cheapo HP business keyboard. And Sennheiser HD202, if I am not mistaken. I used to own a pair. Loved them and hated them at the same time.

The keyboard and monitor are from my test bench, but correct on all accounts.

And yes, an HD202. I quite like it for what it is 😀

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 15:41:

pan069 wrote on 2023-08-17, 14:53:

eesz34 wrote on 2023-08-17, 14:06:

Nice. I have an affection for 286s.

Count me in as well. That case looks brand spanking new inside. Is that a NOS PSU? So shiny... Never understood people who place the CDROM in the lowest drive bay though... 😀

That case was in an incredibly miserable condition when I bought it, and had a 386SX-20 system inside. I've done a meticulous cleaning of it inside out, thank you 😀

CD-ROM at lower bay makes it easier to change things on the upper bays (such as hard drives etc.) in these cases. I eventually hope to add a 5.25" floppy to this build, probably at the middle bay.

Good to hear that, because I just noticed something was missing.

I typically put CD drives at the bottom too. I don't know why.....it might be because the first CD drive I got went into a 286 that already had both floppy drives, and so the bottom was empty. So it went there!

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build.

That's a very hansom machine. My 286 is long gone but I did some benchmarks on it once - they might be of interest if you wanted to compare that bad boy to something. Mine was a 16Mhz, 1MB RAM (I think), and I had the exact same case as you.

Re: It's 286 time!

Bloody photobucket killed all my photos, I should fix that.

badmojo wrote on 2023-08-24, 06:39:

Bloody photobucket killed all my photos, I should fix that.

I've found PostImages.org and Cubeupload.com to be reasonable alternatives to Photobucket.

badmojo wrote on 2023-08-24, 06:39:

That's a very hansom machine. My 286 is long gone but I did some benchmarks on it once - they might be of interest if you wanted […]
Show full quote

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build.

That's a very hansom machine. My 286 is long gone but I did some benchmarks on it once - they might be of interest if you wanted to compare that bad boy to something. Mine was a 16Mhz, 1MB RAM (I think), and I had the exact same case as you.

Re: It's 286 time!

Bloody photobucket killed all my photos, I should fix that.

I have a question about this case, and I'm glad you had it as well.

How the hell is the Turbo button supposed to be hooked up to the botherboard? As is, the button connects directly to the 7-segment LED display and changes what speed it shows, as well as changing the Turbo LED to on/off. There is no connection to the motherboard Turbo Switch header I can see. I have to press the Turbo button, then manually do CTRL+ALT+[+]/[-] which is very annoying. How can I connect the Turbo button to both?

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-24, 08:31:

I have a question about this case, and I'm glad you had it as well.

I haven't had that case for years so can't remember the specifics, but yeah it doesn't seem to be standard. Usually how it works in my experience is that the case switch connects to the motherboard's 'turbo switch' header, and the motherboard also has a 'turbo LED' header which connects to the MHz display and/or turbo LED.

I'm pretty sure that's how my 286 worked. But if your motherboard doesn't have that second header then you might need to do some magic wiring so that the switch drives both the motherboard and display.

badmojo wrote on 2023-08-24, 23:12:

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-24, 08:31:

I have a question about this case, and I'm glad you had it as well.

I haven't had that case for years so can't remember the specifics, but yeah it doesn't seem to be standard. Usually how it works in my experience is that the case switch connects to the motherboard's 'turbo switch' header, and the motherboard also has a 'turbo LED' header which connects to the MHz display and/or turbo LED.

I'm pretty sure that's how my 286 worked. But if your motherboard doesn't have that second header then you might need to do some magic wiring so that the switch drives both the motherboard and display.

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connect the LED output from the motherboard to the display and that will result in:

1. Button Pressed
2. Motherboard engages Turbo/DeTurbo
3. Turbo LED Turns On/Off

But as you can see the LED control board now has nothing plugged into its OWN Turbo Button header and does not know that the button has been pressed, so the LED display does not change between 16/8.

I need to find a way to connect the Turbo button so that it closes both the board's AND the display's Turbo Button circuitry at the same time. Without connecting the two together in parallel in the process, I would think? How does this work, it kind of drove me crazy until I had to meditate for a day and stop the OCD monster in me..

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-25, 06:39:

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connec […]
Show full quote

badmojo wrote on 2023-08-24, 23:12:

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-24, 08:31:

I have a question about this case, and I'm glad you had it as well.

I haven't had that case for years so can't remember the specifics, but yeah it doesn't seem to be standard. Usually how it works in my experience is that the case switch connects to the motherboard's 'turbo switch' header, and the motherboard also has a 'turbo LED' header which connects to the MHz display and/or turbo LED.

I'm pretty sure that's how my 286 worked. But if your motherboard doesn't have that second header then you might need to do some magic wiring so that the switch drives both the motherboard and display.

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connect the LED output from the motherboard to the display and that will result in:

1. Button Pressed
2. Motherboard engages Turbo/DeTurbo
3. Turbo LED Turns On/Off

But as you can see the LED control board now has nothing plugged into its OWN Turbo Button header and does not know that the button has been pressed, so the LED display does not change between 16/8.

I need to find a way to connect the Turbo button so that it closes both the board's AND the display's Turbo Button circuitry at the same time. Without connecting the two together in parallel in the process, I would think? How does this work, it kind of drove me crazy until I had to meditate for a day and stop the OCD monster in me..

Some old cases had a DPDT switch for the turbo, one that went to the display, and one that went to the mainboard.
Some cases only had a SPDT switch that went to the display switching the display indication and a transistor that then switched the mainboard.
Some other cases had the switch going to the mainboard and used the turbo led to switch the display indication.

weedeewee wrote on 2023-08-25, 12:47:

Some old cases had a DPDT switch for the turbo, one that went to the display, and one that went to the mainboard. Some cases on […]
Show full quote

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-25, 06:39:

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connec […]
Show full quote

badmojo wrote on 2023-08-24, 23:12:

I haven't had that case for years so can't remember the specifics, but yeah it doesn't seem to be standard. Usually how it works in my experience is that the case switch connects to the motherboard's 'turbo switch' header, and the motherboard also has a 'turbo LED' header which connects to the MHz display and/or turbo LED.

I'm pretty sure that's how my 286 worked. But if your motherboard doesn't have that second header then you might need to do some magic wiring so that the switch drives both the motherboard and display.

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connect the LED output from the motherboard to the display and that will result in:

1. Button Pressed
2. Motherboard engages Turbo/DeTurbo
3. Turbo LED Turns On/Off

But as you can see the LED control board now has nothing plugged into its OWN Turbo Button header and does not know that the button has been pressed, so the LED display does not change between 16/8.

I need to find a way to connect the Turbo button so that it closes both the board's AND the display's Turbo Button circuitry at the same time. Without connecting the two together in parallel in the process, I would think? How does this work, it kind of drove me crazy until I had to meditate for a day and stop the OCD monster in me..

Some old cases had a DPDT switch for the turbo, one that went to the display, and one that went to the mainboard.
Some cases only had a SPDT switch that went to the display switching the display indication and a transistor that then switched the mainboard.
Some other cases had the switch going to the mainboard and used the turbo led to switch the display indication.

This one has a DPDT switch, but a wire is not soldered onto the second row of terminals. I need to solder one then, that's a mystery solved!

Long time lurker, first time poster.

This is the machine that got me back into retro computing after moving from the US to south east asia over a decade ago.

HP Brio BA410. These used to be everywhere in the late 90s, early 00s, but i seldom see them now. I Rescued this one from one of our datacenters back in 2016. It spent most of its life as a telco server, running Windows NT 4.0 and some sort of enterprise grade software which escapes me now.

I took it home and fitted it with an old Geforce FX 5200, cf card adapter, and new optical drive. It went into storage for a few years and i just got it out, seemed to have yellowed a bit, but I can't be bothered to retrobrite it. Windows 98 Se booted up just fine.

I've since focused on vintage laptops due to space concerns out here, so this is one of my few vintage desktops. Might post those some day if there's interest. I stick to the pentium 1-4 era primarily as im most nostalgic of this epoc(s).

Specs:
1ghz Pentium III Coppermine
512mb SDRAM (pc133)
64gb CF Card
GeForce FX 5200 128mb AGP 2x
3com 10/100 nic
Integrated audio
Windows 98SE with unnoficial SP3

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-25, 13:02:

weedeewee wrote on 2023-08-25, 12:47:

Some old cases had a DPDT switch for the turbo, one that went to the display, and one that went to the mainboard. Some cases on […]
Show full quote

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-25, 06:39:

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connec […]
Show full quote

My motherboard does have the Turbo LED header, but that header is basically a standard 5V header IIRC (0r 3V3?) and I can connect the LED output from the motherboard to the display and that will result in:
1. Button Pressed
2. Motherboard engages Turbo/DeTurbo
3. Turbo LED Turns On/Off
But as you can see the LED control board now has nothing plugged into its OWN Turbo Button header and does not know that the button has been pressed, so the LED display does not change between 16/8.
I need to find a way to connect the Turbo button so that it closes both the board's AND the display's Turbo Button circuitry at the same time. Without connecting the two together in parallel in the process, I would think? How does this work, it kind of drove me crazy until I had to meditate for a day and stop the OCD monster in me..

Some old cases had a DPDT switch for the turbo, one that went to the display, and one that went to the mainboard.
Some cases only had a SPDT switch that went to the display switching the display indication and a transistor that then switched the mainboard.
Some other cases had the switch going to the mainboard and used the turbo led to switch the display indication.

This one has a DPDT switch, but a wire is not soldered onto the second row of terminals. I need to solder one then, that's a mystery solved!

They look like this:
http://www.suntekpc.com/htm-2/power-switch-pu … urbo-3p3c-2.htm
Two wires from one of the rows go to the motherboard - three wires from the other row go to the turbo display

appiah4 wrote on 2023-08-17, 13:58:

This is my newly finished 286 build. More of my computer builds are available on my website.

Whats with all the cookies..? 🤨

Because of obligated rules for websites, depending on where you live.