VOGONS


First post, by Skip94

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Hi all
I have a DFI TOP286 motherboard that originally had the dreaded Varta battery on it, which when I bought it had wreaked its havoc. It was my first attempt at repairing a board like this, but it now works fine, except for 1 issue. It has pins and a jumper for an external battery, so after doing some reading, I bought a double CR2032 holder and wired that onto the pins. It works absolutely fine, however it flattens a pair of CR2032s in just over a week! Is this normal, do these old motherboards have a high current draw compared to modern ones? Or is, as I suspect, something not quite right? I think my next plan of action is to solder pin headers where the Varta was and find a 3.6V battery pack to put there. Probably 3x rechargeable AA's in a holder.
Cheers
Skip

Reply 1 of 5, by Skip94

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Well just an update
I finally stripped the PC this was fitted to and traced the current path from the battery positive pin. Itt went to 4 places, one of the chipset chips which contains the RTC, a 14 pin IC, a tantalum capacitor and a PNP transistor. I pulled the transistor out and it tested as bad with my multimeter. New one soldered in and the battery lasts as it should.
Andrew

Reply 2 of 5, by Deunan

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

This is just an educated guess but the big chip would be the RTC+NVRAM (aka CMOS), the 14-pin is probably a 4000 series inverter that is wired with 32kHz crystal to provide clock for the RTC (somehow these early RTCs couldn't do it on their own or were not as energy efficient). The transistor therefore would be a part of the charging circuitry and that should be disabled with a jumper - if there even is such an option on this mobo. Some mobos have jumpers, some require a specific connection to the header for non-rechargeable external battery, some just can't deal with anything else but NiCd (I guess NiMH would work too).

If charging is disabled then the battery might also be drained while the system is powered on. Again depends on mobo in question, some have proper bypass, some do not. And yes, these early mobos do tend to pull more current so the battery will run flat faster than on more modern 386+ mobo. The take-away is: If your mobo can't have charging disabled do monitor the state of the CRs, the current is small but they will eventually start corroding (shouldn't overheat though). If there's no charging but also no bypass then the batteries will need to be changed pretty often, like in 6 months or so.

These days I go for 3x AAA holder, on wires, for 386+ and 3x AA holder for 286 mobos. Cheaper, can be detached for long term storage, lasts a long time either way, wires let you put the holder in a place where eventual battery corrosion will not spread to the mobo. So consider that if the CRs do die in half a year from now. A holder for 2 cells also works but the voltage drop due to diodes on the mobo means you can't run them as long before you get the RTC slowing down or stopping, and a holder for 4 cells will work too but some mobos will actually run the RTC too fast due to higher voltage (still in specs though with the diodes in series). 3 seems the perfect choice.

Reply 4 of 5, by Skip94

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Cheers, sorry, missed your replys
I actually have gone with the 3x AA battery solution, on nice long wires at the bottom of the case. I've actually used 1.2v rechargable ones, and left the charging enabled. Seems to work well. Turned it on after a month of sitting the other day, CMOS settings as they were. Makes a change where before it flattened the AA's from fully charged in a couple of days.
Andrew

Reply 5 of 5, by Telcoman

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Skip94 -
I, too, have a DFI TOP-286 motherboard with mild battery damage. My posterior is sore from kicking myself as I caused this damage myself. I've had this mobo in storage for 27 years and should have removed the battery long ago. Bah!
Any chance you have any tips or could post notes or pictures on what traces you had to repair?
As near as I can tell, I have about 6 very narrow traces that pass near/under the battery. Their size makes them difficult to probe and trace, especially when they go under nearby components.
I did locate the transistor (Q1, a 2N3906) and cap (C33, looks like 10uf) that you identified. If need be, I'll pull, check & replace the transistor.
Thanks!
(I know this post is 2+ years old & can't really expect a reply. Just glad to have found this cool forum!)