First post, by RussD
Many PIIX3 based motherboards were designed with USB support in mind, but shipped without the necessary sockets and passives. Even though the USB support provided by the PIIX3 is pretty minimal (only 12mbps, most BIOS's don't provide any support ...no hit f2 to enter setup, navigate boot menus, etc..). But it's still a fun project and it's something handy to have. There's basically 4 areas to look at. The socket itself, the filtering and fusing on the power rail, the passives connecting the signal lines, and any necessary passives (termination, etc) for the USBCLK signal. A PIIX3 identified by the marking "Intel" "PCIset" "SB82371SB".
Anyway, here's what you might typically see around the USB socket:
The socket itself is bog standard. A wide variety of connectors will do, I chose a TE 5787745-4. Some
The little three pin components, L10 and L11, are LC EMI filters:
So power goes in one one end, comes out on the other and the center is grounded. In a pinch, you could probably just bridge pin 1 to pin 3. In this case I used DSS1NB32A331Q91A which has a 330pF capacitance. F2 is the shared polyfuse for both sockets. I chose a Littelfuse RUEF250 with a 2.5A hold current and a 5A trip current. L12 and L13 are filters for the ground signals from the USB ports. This is pretty uncommon. These can probably be shorted, in my case I used 220 ohm ferrite beads. On the backside we have some more components:
Since the LC filter provides a small value capacitance for high frequency components, these are either the other half of a Pi filter, or meant for bulk capacitance, but the footprint is a little small for that. Probably not too critical either way as it's just for full speed USB devices and there's probably a bunch of bulk decoupling in this area anyway. I went with a couple of 560pF capacitors, but I can certainly see going with something larger.
Because motherboards of this era are typically wave soldered, all the unused through holes will be populated with solder. If you are determined enough, you can get this out with a combination of wicking, solder sucking, fresh solder, flux, wicking, and a lot of frustration. If you have a hot air station, using that on one side while using a solder sucker from the other side is magical. Anyway, components ready to go:
Bit of soldering later:
And that takes are of the socket and power filtering/decoupling.