This is my first battery corrosion removal process of a 386 board. Just after feedback. The underside of the board had no damage.
I plan to re tin and then coat with either green nail polish or try and get formal coating.
Thanks for looking
The traces look OK so maybe was got lucky and no real damage. I would test the board as-is to make sure before coating it....
Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun
Looks like the "printed fuse" might have lost contact at the center (or could do so soon) due to the corrosion and the cleaning process. Maybe it´s safer to solder a new "regular" 3A pico-fuse in that place.
This is the before picture. What label is the fuse? Is it j1 or c1 or c12. Thanks
It´s this one:
It´was designed for a defined copper thickness, that is probably reduced now. If you tin it, it gets thicker, but electrically undefined. It might blow too early or not at all when there´s a short at the keyboard connector (in the kb-cable, the kb itself or some other device connected to it).
