VOGONS


First post, by songoffall

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So, almost all of my optical drives at this point were refusing to eject. Some would eject properly if there was a disk inside. Only one Sony CD-RW was fine and a Compaq slot-driven 24x CD-ROM from the Deskpro 2000 that people claim has a 100% failure rate.

Every failed optical drive had the wheel-rubber belt system. The two that didn't fail, didn't. So it was a given that the point of failure was the wheels and rubber belt.

There were several suggestions out there - some claiming that cleaning the drive helps, some claiming that the rubber belt has become loose and boiling it will shrink it to its original size.

Having no success with either method, I concluded there was a systematic failure at work here: the wheels and the rubber wheel didn't get enough traction maybe because they had gathered gunk or the belt had become loose over time, and the trays were adding too much traction especially when closed.

What comes next, if you repeat it, it's at your own risk.

With the drives attached to a computer and the computer on, I used a pin to open the tray. Then I sprayed the wheels and belt with a little 99% isopropyl alcohol because I needed the wheels to be lubricated for what was coming next. Then I dipped a q-tip in alcohol and placed it so it touched both the motor's smaller wheel and the rubber belt. I pushed the tray in a little to trigger the motor. It started to spin and cleaned itself. I dipped a second q-tip in alcohol and placed it on the bigger wheel, so it would also touch the belt. Then I manually pushed the tray in and out as much as I could while holding the q-tip steady, so the gunk on both the wheel and the belt would rub on the q-tip. And I also slightly lubricated the rails of the tray.

Here are my results.

Sony SATA DVD-RW - success
Lite-On IDE DVD-ROM - failure, but this drive seems to have more problems as it doesn't even read disks.
Nec IDE CD-RW - success
Sony IDE CD-RW - failure, even though it worked for a while, returned to the original problem in a few minutes. Might try again
MSI IDE CD-RW - yet to fix
another Sony SATA DVD-RW - yet to fix
Samsung IDE CD-ROM - seems like a partial success - a different issue the drive has suggests the eject button might be faulty, because the drive keeps ejecting at random.

No drives were damaged in the process, but that might just be my luck.

P2 300MHz/Matrox Mystique/Sound Blaster AWE 32 Value
Pentium 3 733MHz/3dfx Voodoo 3 3000/Aureal Vortex 2 (Diamond Monster Sound)
Pentium 4 HT 3.0GHz/GeForce FX 5500/Creative Audigy 2
Core2 Quad Q9400/GeForce 8800GT/Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty

Reply 1 of 13, by giantclam

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I just buy/use cassette & tape machine replacement belt kits, there's usually 10 or so the right size for CD/DVD players =)

T7jyAp6.png

Reply 2 of 13, by songoffall

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giantclam wrote on 2023-11-04, 07:36:
I just buy/use cassette & tape machine replacement belt kits, there's usually 10 or so the right size for CD/DVD players =) […]
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I just buy/use cassette & tape machine replacement belt kits, there's usually 10 or so the right size for CD/DVD players =)

T7jyAp6.png

For the two drives that didn't get fixed, I will. But for the rest, the belt wasn't the problem, gunk on the wheels and the belt was.

P2 300MHz/Matrox Mystique/Sound Blaster AWE 32 Value
Pentium 3 733MHz/3dfx Voodoo 3 3000/Aureal Vortex 2 (Diamond Monster Sound)
Pentium 4 HT 3.0GHz/GeForce FX 5500/Creative Audigy 2
Core2 Quad Q9400/GeForce 8800GT/Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty

Reply 3 of 13, by rasz_pl

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non alcohol proof rubber + alcohol = swelling making it even worse 😀
universal belt sets are plentiful and cheap ($3)

https://github.com/raszpl/sigrok-disk FM/MFM/RLL decoder
https://github.com/raszpl/FIC-486-GAC-2-Cache-Module (AT&T Globalyst)
https://github.com/raszpl/386RC-16 ram board
https://github.com/raszpl/440BX Reference Design adapted to Kicad

Reply 4 of 13, by Horun

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Yeah alcohoI and rubber can be a bad mixture, will become brittle fairly quick in time afaik. just looked on ebay and 100 or 150 belt sets for less than a non-working/untested cdrom 🤣

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 5 of 13, by songoffall

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rasz_pl wrote on 2023-11-04, 21:50:

non alcohol proof rubber + alcohol = swelling making it even worse 😀
universal belt sets are plentiful and cheap ($3)

it's not about the price, it's about having to wait about a month for them to get here. Also, it's not just the belts, it's also the wheels.

The drives are doing fine btw.

P2 300MHz/Matrox Mystique/Sound Blaster AWE 32 Value
Pentium 3 733MHz/3dfx Voodoo 3 3000/Aureal Vortex 2 (Diamond Monster Sound)
Pentium 4 HT 3.0GHz/GeForce FX 5500/Creative Audigy 2
Core2 Quad Q9400/GeForce 8800GT/Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty

Reply 6 of 13, by lti

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There's a YouTube channel (NorCal715) that cleans belts and pulleys with acetone. I haven't tried that or boiling belts. I have some drives with the same problem, but they also fail to read discs (one is intermittent, and one reads exactly two discs that I have - any other disc completely hangs the system).

I wonder if the tray rails also need greased, at least on the drive that only reads two discs. It feels a little sticky. I think it's usually white lithium grease, but I've seen someone use silicone grease (meant for plumbing fixtures) on a floppy drive. There's also some green grease that Samsung used in their VCRs, and I don't know what that is.

Reply 7 of 13, by rasz_pl

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lti wrote on 2023-11-05, 22:23:

I haven't tried that or boiling belts.

Boiling, by chucking carburetor parts into ultrasonic cleaner without removing rubber gaskets results in swelling - rubber gets bigger and doesnt fit anymore.
Rubber is perishable, no point trying to reanimate when universal set is $3.

https://github.com/raszpl/sigrok-disk FM/MFM/RLL decoder
https://github.com/raszpl/FIC-486-GAC-2-Cache-Module (AT&T Globalyst)
https://github.com/raszpl/386RC-16 ram board
https://github.com/raszpl/440BX Reference Design adapted to Kicad

Reply 8 of 13, by ubiq

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I have a bunch of broken optical drives that I have put off dealing with. Sluggish or non-opening drives are pretty much all due to bad belts eh? I've opened a couple up but without really knowing what I was doing I didn't accomplish much. Well, other than discovering a Reggae Hits CD that had gotten stuck under the tray of one "working" ebay drive. Still doesn't work. 👍

Reply 9 of 13, by Horun

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A different but applicable thought: Old belt drive turntables. They use a belt but larger and flat, not like an O ring, but more like a large black rubber band. When they stretch there is nothing good you can do but replace, if not the belt will slowly dissolve to some black goop that then must be cleaned up from platter and spindle before replacing. Same can happen to a cdrom belt for a tray. so if you do have a fix with some chemical it will be short lived...just an observation based on nearly ruining a Kenwood KD-2055 because I thought some chem treatment would be ok, and it worth way more than these cdroms. just rambling....

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 10 of 13, by kingcake

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lti wrote on 2023-11-05, 22:23:

There's a YouTube channel (NorCal715) that cleans belts and pulleys with acetone. I haven't tried that or boiling belts. I have some drives with the same problem, but they also fail to read discs (one is intermittent, and one reads exactly two discs that I have - any other disc completely hangs the system).

I wonder if the tray rails also need greased, at least on the drive that only reads two discs. It feels a little sticky. I think it's usually white lithium grease, but I've seen someone use silicone grease (meant for plumbing fixtures) on a floppy drive. There's also some green grease that Samsung used in their VCRs, and I don't know what that is.

Acetone is definitely not good for rubber. Generally it kinda half melts it. Maybe it makes it sticky and grabby again? Not what I'd use, anyway. As far as grease, white lithium grease is good for metal, but not plastic or rubber. It's petroleum based. Silicone or urea-based grease for rubber and plastic. (Be careful, cheaper silicone grease is also petroleum based and not pure silicone)

Reply 11 of 13, by dionb

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I volunteer at a repair cafe, and after clogged vacuum cleaners and electric cooking devices with blown thermal fuses, cassette and CD/DVD drives with dud belts are commonest things brought in for repair. It's the rubber disintegrating, replace them and all is well. Messing around with liquids is a temporary kludge at best, at worst risks clogging up bits that still do work.

Reply 12 of 13, by songoffall

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Some final thoughts on why so many of my optical drives had problems.

The rubber belt slipping may be a point of failure, but may also be a symptom of something else. None of my gear-driven/beltless drives has failed, but they sound quite horrible when opening and closing.

What happens with the belt is that the plasticizer in the rubber leaches out over time and the belt loses its elasticity. It gets harder and also looser. The molecules in the rubber get cross-linked. Heat-treating/annealing the rubber is only a temporary solution because the plasticizer is gone for good, and while you can re-plasticize the rubber, it's usually not worth it. I have belts that have completely hardened and are just stuck in a single shape.

But the optical drive sled itself is another point of failure as it slides over plastic and over time due to grime and dust and plastic wear friction can build up. And when fiction builds up even a good enough belt can start slipping. Replacing the belt will make the issue less pronounced, but I would suggest you clean and lubricate the part where the sled slides over rails. Unsurprisingly, this was the most common problem I had because most of my drives were from 2000s, not 80s and 90s.

A third issue was the gears themselves. Most of the gears are made with good quality plastic, but some were some old ABS and had gotten brittle with broken teeth. Guess it's time to get a 3d printer and start printing gears.

A fourth and most bizarre issue was the wheel and the disk holder getting stuck. Apparently the rubberized material that holds the disk in place behaves differently when losing plasticizers - it turns sticky, like the grommets in old Quantum hard drives. They can be cleared but I'll need to find some grippy tape material to replace them least my disks start slipping in the drive.

P2 300MHz/Matrox Mystique/Sound Blaster AWE 32 Value
Pentium 3 733MHz/3dfx Voodoo 3 3000/Aureal Vortex 2 (Diamond Monster Sound)
Pentium 4 HT 3.0GHz/GeForce FX 5500/Creative Audigy 2
Core2 Quad Q9400/GeForce 8800GT/Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty

Reply 13 of 13, by lti

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Another problem is dirty switch contacts. That might be why one of your drives ejects randomly. I've also seen drives open and then close again.

The gears are usually nylon, and I don't think I've seen a 3D print that was precise or strong enough to replace the original gear. Maybe 3D printing has improved since I was in school, or I never got that printer adjusted properly (I think it had a large nozzle, and it definitely had a warped base, even though the base was glass).

I've only had one drive with a gear-driven tray, and its main controller chip blew up spontaneously one day.

There are also other failures that I haven't tracked down yet. I only have one IDE optical drive that will read discs, and it's a slim (laptop) drive that's starting to get unreliable. I also have one DVD-ROM drive that could read two CDs (one factory-pressed and one CD-RW that has been reused a few times), but it won't read DVDs at all.