Stojke wrote:

Could be possible that the oscillator or some caps died?

Perhaps. I have to take the approach that AlphaWing just mentioned first.
Cap's N' stuff are later, as they make my head spin. Rather heavy.
Not good at that stuff. Though I have managed to salvage some mobo's
by re-capping them. (easy actually, yet not on soundcards)

AlphaWing:
Just realised that you have a model CT2760 Rev3 and I have a CT2760. Mine does not have eeprom.
Check: "Total Hardware"

I don't see it in the pictures, but if its there just disable it, mines under the CD-ROM IDE PORTS on my CT2760.
You should then be able to use Diagnose again after its disabled.
Your model seems to not be like mine tho despite having the same CT Number, you have jumpers for IRQ and DMA, mine doesn't have these.

Your EMU Chip is in a completely different spot too.
Gonna guess there is a PNP model and that is what I have, and you have the Non PNP.
Sucks it just stopped working like that, thats not a good sign 😢 .

Examined pictures you gave and here are some notes:

Hope this helps.

I would give it a good clean and test it with the minimum jumper settings configuration (no effects, no ide, no mpu, no joystick and stock SB16 parameters) and without the memory sticks (that should not affect anything, but who know ?).
As suggested you can always test continuity of the suspicious traces with a multimeter and make sure that solders arent shorting at some places.

AlphaWing wrote:

I don't see it in the pictures, but if its there just disable it, mines under the CD-ROM IDE PORTS on my CT2760. You should then […]
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I don't see it in the pictures, but if its there just disable it, mines under the CD-ROM IDE PORTS on my CT2760.
You should then be able to use Diagnose again after its disabled.
Your model seems to not be like mine tho despite having the same CT Number, you have jumpers for IRQ and DMA, mine doesn't have these.

Your EMU Chip is in a completely different spot too.
Gonna guess there is a PNP model and that is what I have, and you have the Non PNP.
Sucks it just stopped working like that, thats not a good sign 😢 .

Yeah... It suck big time. Anyway. You have the Revision-3 I assume that mine is Revision-1.
I give up for today. Have installed the SB-Live CT-4620 and my 100% NON-PNP SB16 CT-2910.
This way, I can get MT32 emulation and general midi from the live, and real OPL plus SB16,
when running my DOS in XMS. Must be the best solution for time being.

That SB16 delivers some good bass i can tell you. Real pleasure. 😁

stbunny wrote:

Examined pictures you gave and here are some notes: http://i.imgur.com/G8PYV1S.png http://i.imgur.com/aK6aj96.png http://i.imgur […]
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Examined pictures you gave and here are some notes:

Hope this helps.

Thanks.... That will be a project for one of the days ahead.
Will have to check it out. Thanks for the info. 😀 😀 😀

darksheer wrote:

I would give it a good clean and test it with the minimum jumper settings configuration (no effects, no ide, no mpu, no joystick and stock SB16 parameters) and without the memory sticks (that should not affect anything, but who know ?).
As suggested you can always test continuity of the suspicious traces with a multimeter and make sure that solders arent shorting at some places.

What can I clean it in? I have done that thing with a rubber eraser and cleaned the contacts in 99% alcohol.
(well... The type were they have added something that makes you sick when you drink it)

Shall i start by rinsing the card in water or something else? I know water+electronics are bad combo 😁 yet one never knows right!

Isopropyl alcohol is good for small area or contacts... in your case I will use water with dishwashing liquid in a plastic basin and gently brush the card (with a dish brush for exemple) then you can rinsee the card under water..

After that you will need to blow the water out of the card to help it dry faster (with an hair dryer for exemple) and let the card rest for a day or two in a dish cloth.

The card should look like new with shining contacts, easier for proper inspection.

Verify by touch that the card is completely dry and that no water residues stayed into the jacks or gameport socket before putting it back in the computer (the only moment when water + electronics is a bad combo is when components or pcb are not dry enough).

darksheer wrote:

Isopropyl alcohol is good for small area or contacts... in your case I will use water with dishwashing liquid in a plastic basin […]
Show full quote

Isopropyl alcohol is good for small area or contacts... in your case I will use water with dishwashing liquid in a plastic basin and gently brush the card (with a dish brush for exemple) then you can rinsee the card under water..

After that you will need to blow the water out of the card to help it dry faster (with an hair dryer for exemple) and let the card rest for a day or two in a dish cloth.

The card should look like new with shining contacts, easier for proper inspection.

Verify by touch that the card is completely dry and that no water residues stayed into the jacks or gameport socket before putting it back in the computer (the only moment when water + electronics is a bad combo is when components or pcb are not dry enough).

Thanks.... 😀
Now I know how to do it safely.

Just so you know. This won't kill the board. Won't fix it either.

RacoonRider wrote:

Just so you know. This won't kill the board. Won't fix it either.

I agree with this method for cleaning a card.
A soft-toothbrush made softer from use is also safe if you don't use immense scrubbing power.
Just make sure it has time to dry after.

Nice,,,
Is that a Cirrus Logic 5428 vl-bus card? I seem to remember the colours and layout.

Looks more like a S3 VLB based card to me (S3 vision maybe ?)...

After rinsing the card in a water+alcohol+soap mixture, and cleaning in running water.
I have discovered something that do not look right. It looks like a shorting circuit.
Can that be fixed by applying some new lacker? And if so, what type?
Or is my Awe32 just a throw-away now?

That can be fixed with some solder, but i don't think it's a disconnected line.

Stojke wrote:

Could be possible that the oscillator or some caps died?

I thought the same here.. Because these are older cards, the capacitor might just dried out.
I should trying replace all of those electrolyc capacitors.

darksheer wrote:

Looks more like a S3 VLB based card to me (S3 vision maybe ?)...

Probably because it is an S3 805 VLB 😀

RacoonRider wrote:

darksheer wrote:

Looks more like a S3 VLB based card to me (S3 vision maybe ?)...

Probably because it is an S3 805 VLB 😀

Damn it.... 🤣
Well, it has been a little under 15 year's since I saw those VLB card that I used to have then.
No wonder that I could not recognice it. Was just the label with big numbers and the colour that I remembered.
Perhaps I just remember's my old SIDE JR-Pro VLB IDE Controller then.... Ohh well. 😁

On the AWE-Card:

Hmmm....
If that is not the "physical level" defect wich the card suffers from, then it might indeed be the cap's.
Have to test it out, when it dries from cleaning. For the record. I am not good at electronics at this level.
I have tried to replace some of the cap's on my old SB16 Value Edition, and it still is not fixed.
That card overheats around the amplifier-part, so that is a totally different defect.

Is there some way of checking cap's out, using some tool for measuring?