Hey Phil,
I was wondering about the 1000 floppy image software and if it fits a certain model of the Gotek or does it work with them all? 😕

Thanks

Bullmecha wrote:

Hey Phil,
I was wondering about the 1000 floppy image software and if it fits a certain model of the Gotek or does it work with them all? 😕

Thanks

I use it in 100 image mode. The 1000 mode didn't work well for me. The software is from a German company. I've got the info in one of my videos on my YT channel.

Two of my builds, including the 4 in 1 Retro Gaming PC, and two of Badmojo, made it onto the cover of OCAU, Australia's busiest PC Hardware Community 😊

http://www.overclockers.com.au/news.php?id=1172342

Hmmm... Just wondering.
Have you tested out those TNT2 cards you recieved a couple of weeks ago? (or was it TNT)

Awesome Phil!

I am slowly putting one together.

Soyo SY-5EMA+ V1.1 super socket 7 motherboard
AMD K6-2+ 450 CPU (possibly a 500 if I can find a 1.7v one at a good price)
128MB RAM
Some type of AGP Voodoo3 video card, possibly a little Velocity 100 card
Probably a YMF71x ISA sound card with S1 MIDI module
Possibly a Vortex2 sound card

I will be finding out if SoftFSB supports my motherboard so that I can bump up the FSB to 100-MHz in Windows if needed for more demanding games.

brostenen wrote:

Hmmm... Just wondering.
Have you tested out those TNT2 cards you recieved a couple of weeks ago? (or was it TNT)

I have, but not more than confirming that they work 😀

squareguy wrote:

Awesome Phil! […]
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Awesome Phil!

I am slowly putting one together.

Soyo SY-5EMA+ V1.1 super socket 7 motherboard
AMD K6-2+ 450 CPU (possibly a 500 if I can find a 1.7v one at a good price)
128MB RAM
Some type of AGP Voodoo3 video card, possibly a little Velocity 100 card
Probably a YMF71x ISA sound card with S1 MIDI module
Possibly a Vortex2 sound card

I will be finding out if SoftFSB supports my motherboard so that I can bump up the FSB to 100-MHz in Windows if needed for more demanding games.

SoftFSB? Eager to see how you go with this. That will unlock a few more options.

I've been using CPUFSB on my P5A-B and QDI Advance 10T and it works really well. Essentially I can mess with FSB and multiplier on my K6-III+ without ever leaving Windows. 😈

F2bnp wrote:

I've been using CPUFSB on my P5A-B and QDI Advance 10T and it works really well. Essentially I can mess with FSB and multiplier on my K6-III+ without ever leaving Windows. 😈

For real? That's awesome 😀 Shame I didn''t know about these tools, I could have tested all my boards...

F2bnp wrote:

I've been using CPUFSB on my P5A-B and QDI Advance 10T and it works really well. Essentially I can mess with FSB and multiplier on my K6-III+ without ever leaving Windows. 😈

Cool. I see that it supports the Southbridge on my VA-503+. Sorry for the noob question -- so you could use the program to set the freq to 133MHz (2x66) and then start an older DOS game from Windows? And then the freq would return to normal upon reboot?

I think it requires a shutdown, so you should be able to restart or softreset and still maintain the same speed. That's how it works on my Advance 10T, will have to try on my P5A-B.

It works for me only within the same PCI divider. Mainboard Tyan S1590.
Boot at FSB 66: I can set 60, 66, 68.5, 75 (37.5 MHz PCI)
Boot at FSB 75 (30 MHz PCI): I can set 75 (30 MHz PCI), 83
Boot at FSB 100: I can set 95, 100

Anything else will crash. Thats why I use a single switch on the case backside to select between 66 & 100 MHz.

falloutboy wrote:

It works for me only within the same PCI divider. Mainboard Tyan S1590. Boot at FSB 66: I can set 60, 66, 68.5, 75 (37.5 MHz PCI […]
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It works for me only within the same PCI divider. Mainboard Tyan S1590.
Boot at FSB 66: I can set 60, 66, 68.5, 75 (37.5 MHz PCI)
Boot at FSB 75 (30 MHz PCI): I can set 75 (30 MHz PCI), 83
Boot at FSB 100: I can set 95, 100

Anything else will crash. Thats why I use a single switch on the case backside to select between 66 & 100 MHz.

That definely limits its utility. A switch would be the best. Was it difficult to make?

You can try CPUFSB first, if it's not working go for the switch solution.
This is how I did it.
Just get some cables, you can use IDE, Floppy cables or even old analog audio CDROM to sound card cables.
Or search for "jumper cable 2.54MM male to female 1P 30cm" or something similar
e.g. something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/40pcs-Dupont-Wire-Jum … =item3f2cbece60
The female side will fit on your motherboard jumper connectors.

Search for "Mini Toggle Switch ON ON" or something similar.
I use one like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-Mini-Toggle-Switc … =item3a62199893
or if you like to have every jumper separate adjustable
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Mini-MTS-102-3- … %3D290638075909

You may need to use a solder iron for the switch cable connection & to extend your cables.
And you have to drill a hole somewhere.

Have fun 😀

This is what you usually get for cheap money.

What options would there be with DIP switches?

philscomputerlab wrote:

What options would there be with DIP switches?

Hmm... if your motherboard have DIP switches
I guess I would do it this way:
DIP switches have usually only 2 contacts for each switch.
Look only for the switches that need to be changed to set FSB 66 & 100 MHz, set them to OFF.
Solder the cables on the backside of your motherboard to the corresponding contacts.
Get some nice thin cables. I'm not sure the one I linked before is good for this.
Use Mini Toggle Switches or something else to set the ON positions.

This solution is somewhat removable.
----------------
Just as a side note:
If your motherboard has "3 pin jumpers" where you have to select position 1-2 or 2-3.
On my motherboard position 1-2 is only to make sure the jumpers don't get lost,
you can pull them, it will be the same as pos. 1-2.
So you would only need to close & open the position 2-3.
Just test it on your motherboard.

Ah just checked, I was confused, turns out most boards do indeed use jumpers for the FSB 😊

But DIP switches for voltage and multiplier.

So yes, sounds like a great idea!

It's added to my project list. Maybe for an improved 4 in 1 machine, you know, compile some findings and things like that.

The GA-5AX and AOpen AX59 Pro have two jumpers that need changing (1-2 to 2-3) to switch between 66 and 100 MHz. I will test if your method works with these boards (removing the pin = one of the settings). That would make the mod super easy, which just a single switch that closes two circuits. Double-pole or double-throw (DPDT) switch, is this what I should be looking for?

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Pcs-ON-ON-2-Posi … =item339fedcd3b

The DFI K6XV3+/66 does use DIP switches.

philscomputerlab wrote:

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Pcs-ON-ON-2-Posi … =item339fedcd3b

Yes, they will work perfectly. My switch is like ON OFF ON, with a middle OFF position but that is unnecessary.

Hi!

I have a PC for DOs games, is slot 1 with mendocino 366mhz, and stiull did not found any dos game that dont work

Of course, i just tested the games i know/like, any list of "problematic" games? i really wanna tets my celeron, because after testing many socket 7, finally i found the Celeron much better

Thanks for the nice instructions, falloutboy. May be a project for when I have more time. Jumpers seem to be getting more difficult to remove and replace as I get older.

Get yourself a set of jumper insertion/removal tools! It really makes life easier.

I also highly recommend jumper observation visors.