I'll see what I can come up with...give me until tonight.

I own one too. I'll take pictures of over the next weekend.

Maverick1978 wrote:

It was missing part of a top-layer trace and a ceramic SMD capacitor to begin with, and in using a small brush to dust it off so I could try and see what else might be wrong, I lost an aluminum cap which is easily replaceable.

Hi, can you also post a picture of the areas that are broken? That would tell how important parts those are (like for instance you can just replace a power bypass cap with something similar, but for an analog filter you need the exact same cap there was or the filter parameters are different).

Jepael wrote:

Maverick1978 wrote:

It was missing part of a top-layer trace and a ceramic SMD capacitor to begin with

Hi, can you also post a picture of the areas that are broken? .

I have taken close-up pictures of the card. Both front and back.
You'll have to tell us which caps/else need to be replaced (circle them in one of the images?) and we can take some more macro shots of those specific ones.

Note : I bought the card super dirty like this... Didn't realize it was so bad until today.

Mega link for pictures :
https://mega.nz/#!Vl81XBLT!gGkeBL5xRRKSt4WGr- … NmGlOOGQ3JK2THM

You guys are great.... Thanks so much for the responses, and for the scans! Those were exactly what I needed.

I've 3 damages to my board: the cap at C20L that came off while brushing, the SMD electrolytic (is that a resister? cap? any values that I need to worry about?), and the two traces were cut near the SMD electrolytic.

All easily enough repaired, I just have to know what exactly to purchase! C20L is easy enough - would appreciate any input into the electrolytic replacement.

Thanks again, guys!

It's an SMD ceramic capacitor. How big is it? They have standardized sizes.

I would measure the adjacent one which is almost certainly of identical value.

If you can't measure it's value, then just measure the size and get a 16V replacement with any capacitance. 16V to be safe in case it's on a 12v rail.

mockingbird wrote:

I would measure the adjacent one which is almost certainly of identical value.

The black ones have numbers on them (ex.: 103 or 513 or 104 or 221, etc.)
But the brown ones have nothing, all across the board. They may effectively be of the same type.
There are also a few light gray ones, also with no numbers. (ex. C7R in the picture)

Beegle wrote:

The black ones have numbers on them (ex.: 103 or 513 or 104 or 221, etc.) But the brown ones have nothing, all across the board. […]
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mockingbird wrote:

I would measure the adjacent one which is almost certainly of identical value.

The black ones have numbers on them (ex.: 103 or 513 or 104 or 221, etc.)
But the brown ones have nothing, all across the board. They may effectively be of the same type.
There are also a few light gray ones, also with no numbers. (ex. C7R in the picture)

The black ones are resistors, and the markings are codes for their value.

If your multimeter function has a capacitor value mode, you might be able to get the value off of the one that fell of his if it's not connected electrically in parallel with something that might skew the measurement.

But like I said, if you measure the physical size and then find out the standardized case code (I think what he's missing is an 0805), it's safe to just use a 16V part at any capacitance.

I appreciate the input, guys. My experience is essentially with through-hole electrolytics only, so I always try to double-check my assumptions before working with SMD. I'll see if I can pull one of the other similar-looking SMD caps off the board and check it with my capacitance meter now that you've verified for me that they are indeed caps and appear to be the same.

Will be nice to add this to the collection... now if I can track down disk images of the original software that came with and add it to my floppy collection 😀

I have a vague memory that Roland were very protective of their software and drivers when they are posted on the internet... maybe others could confirm this?
IIRC that is why there are no drivers for Roland stuff on vogonsdrivers, for example.

cool animation beegle.. thats a throw back... that game came with the first soundblaster i ever had back in 1990 i think..
i have some noob questions about th rap-10 that dont seem to be laid out in the articles ive read

1) does it include an onboard synth of any kind?
2) does it feature FM synth?
3) the midi port. is mpu-401 compatible? (dumb UART? not intelligent? correct?) so this makes it no differnt then the soundblaster joystick midi except it doesnt suffer frm hanging notes?

Where on this card is amplifier?