the caps all say what they are, so I dont see why its hard to figure out. ie your last picture, 1000uf 6.3v or higher, 105 degree C

eg:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … tGeZx5nwQ%3D%3D

this has a 3.5mm lead spacing which may or may not be what you want.

look at them, write down the 'uf' rating, temp + voltage.. look them up. radial electrolytic caps. check temps + lead spacings.
voltage doesnt matter so much but dont go lower that specified, higher is ok.

My apologies, I formulated the question not good. Does it mean I can use any cap with the same voltage and farrad regardless of its ESR/other specs? Or do I have to stick to specific types/ranges? And I generally tend to choose Panasonic caps, is that good or should I take other brands?

Looks like four from the second pic and one from the third could use replacing.

Same voltage is fine, but I personally prefer to step that up because I feel like they'll last longer, so I generally only use capacitors rated for 25V or 50V in such circuits (Which will probably never exceed 12V). ESR probably isn't too important, but if the ones you order have better ESR then it is unlikely to do any harm. You will need the same farad rating no matter what, though in emergencies you can sometimes get away with using the next size up if the ones you need aren't available, though doing that comes with no guarantees and is probably best reserved for a last resort. You aren't likely to have to do that anyway.

Panasonic is fine, I favor Nichicon but Panasonic caps are generally problem free too.

Stepping up voltage doesn't change lifespan. Overvolting a cap can result in breakdown, but thats a binary work/fail result. Lifespan is affected by heat and more specifically ESR, rated temperature, rated life (in hours), and rated ripple current.

AFAIK the ESR is important in the meaning of durability.
A lower ESR means less resistance in the cap thus it runs "colder" and the electrolyte lasts longer.

Sure, but choosing a cap with a higher voltage rating shouldn't hurt.
Note that some of those caps already operate near to their maximum range, like 16v caps in a 12v circuit.
The Game Gear handheld, for example, also likely suffered from this. It had 6.3v/4v caps in it's audio stage (5v), while the unit ran at about 9v (or 2x 4.5v).
Replacing those is a popular fix nowadays. Just search for "game gear sound fix".
However, I'm not sure if this was strictly a voltage problem. It was probably using capacitors of a lower quality, aswell.
But really, I don't think this was a heat problem. A handheld usually doesn't get very hot. (edited again)

awgamer wrote:

Looks like four from the second pic and one from the third could use replacing.

Worse, not all leak or are bulged at top, they also leak at the bottom. All seem te have suffered except one 😵
Ordering ones with low(er) ESR that fit, hopefully they will arrive soon. Will be my first motherboard recap so kinda curious how it will go.

I hope you have proper tools to do it, like a hakko 808 or hakko fr300...

Make sure You get capacitors that are no bigger, width or height, than the originals.

Imperious wrote:

Make sure You get capacitors that are no bigger, width or height, than the originals.

This is problematic. I can't find decent replacements for the 1000uF ones that are only 6mm in diameter that also have the same leg distance and size.
All the ones that would have the same characteristics have a 8mm diameter..

In a case like yours, I would just do the best I can. What you have are 85-degree, general-purpose capacitors. You can get a Panasonic FR line of caps from Digi-Key at 470uF 105-degree, low-impedance capacitors in a 6.3mm diameter with a 5mm lead-spacing. It's just a Pentium, and not a heavy hitter like a Pentium 4 where low-impedance capacitors are prime. In my opinion you would be fine.

No matter what you decide to do for capacitors on this board, since you're probably not going to find an exact replacement, I would make sure to recap the power-supply with new, 105-degree capacitors, but don't simply stick low-impedance capacitors in the PSU because it can alter the way it functions. Just put modern, fresh, 105-degree replacements through-out. This will help bolster the power from it's source, and lessen the strain on the motherboard caps.

Jo22 wrote:

Sure, but choosing a cap with a higher voltage rating shouldn't hurt.

Just your pocket book!

(^_^)

For 1000uf 6.3V i reccomend Nichicon L8 polymers. For the bigger 1500uf you can go with Panasonic FM's. You can't go wrong sticking to the same values.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Gonna go work on it and report back as soon as I received them and did some of the recapping 😀